well, i did as the Video & Hank suggested. now i have no clutch pedal. soggy as a bowl of 2 day old corn flakes. it was nice & firm b4 this, and i still am left with the same problem; cant get into gear w/ engine running. poor boy can't get anywhere these days.
OH. another thing is it never came to the point to where i "couldn't" push the rod in.

 

OK do you have fluid at the bleed valve on the slave? Leave it open a little to run down. Next make sure the resevoir is full and work the pedal afew times. Also make sure the quick disconnect is fully engaged on the slave line. You can check to ensure fluid flow by pulling it loose and depressing the check ball back in and then reconnecting.

DId you do the bleed by pulling the master cyl piston loose? If you have checked all these and all are good I am not sure what to tell ya. keep us informed.

 

i didnt mention that when i went to do the "Hank method" (set up just like in video) that when i went to pull the rob to let fluid/air to flow. that there was this sleeve, the piston fits in, came out as i was slowly pulling the piston out.... normal or is MC shot? i was able to get the sleeve back in and a click sound was made.

 

dont know anything about a sleeve as I never pulled the rod out that far. Was this a new master? If you put it all back as it was did you try to again let the air out either by twisting/turning the master or pulling the rod loose but not all the way out? If you didnt you will still have air in the system.

 

man this is going to take up some pages lol. Hank r u on Facebook? can IM there insted of using thread space. i dont see anywhere where we can post E mail w/o t being open to pblic. plus i can post/ show pics of what i am talking about too.

 

click on my name and send a PM that is how we can get off here if you want to go didrect.

 

94 Ranger 4x4
This was a life saver for me too!!!
Spent all day trying to bleed the clutch!
So then I went to Google and did a search and ended up here.
Thanks Hank!!!!

Bill

 

Okay. Here's one for you. How is the bleeder valve attached to the line of the slave unit? While attempting to bleed the clutch, I noticed more air than should have been in the entire line coming out of the system. When I put slight pressure upward onto the bleeder valve, I got pure fluid. When I didn't put that pressure upward, I got micro bubbles that appeared to come from the bleeder valve or just behind it. Is the bleeder valve attached to the line by a sleeve of some sort that could be leaking. I've been losing fluid very slowly for some time but the truck worked until just recently.

 

I have the same problem when i took out my 4 speed amd swapped a in a 5 speed . with the engine runing it will not go into gear and all it does is make a griding noise the to parts that i have replaced is the clutch master line and the throw out bearing. im working on a 89 f150 with a 302

 

Hey guys, it seems like most of you have the quick disconnect line. I have an 86 and have the slide in pin. I'm replacing my slave cylinder and have the tranny off. I need to replace the actual hydraulic line also, but can;t find anyone that sells them! Any of you know a place the has the older (non-quick disconnect) hydraulic lines?

Thanks!

 

i read this thread with great interest!
my son and i bled our 1988 F 150 4x4 today.

like always, i call my nephew,
who has been a mechanic for > 20yrs
and has bled hundreds of hydralic clutches,
for advice when i do something new

his method

install the concentric internal slave cylinder in trannie
and then the trannie in the vehicle
then bleed as below to make sure
one didn't buy a 'bad' factory slave
(then, one only has to remove the trannie to replace w/new one)
install a new 'O' ring on the quick connect end of pressure line
and connect this to the internal slave clylinder line
he usually lubricates this O ring with a lite oil.
fill the MC resevoir full
pump brake pedal 12x with the bleeder valve CLOSED
then while the brake pedal is held all the way down,
open the bleeder valve to let out all air/brake fluid mix.
CLOSE bleeder.
Check resevoir level and fill as needed.
repeat this process as many times as it takes
for the brakes to come up and work properly.
normally this will be 3-4x.
it took us about 8x, but we had let the resevoir get to low
and had to start over.

he has used this method for many years
he has never (well very rarely) ever replaced a MC
(usually when costumer insists on it)
and he has never had to resort to bench bleeding
which he says this is a waste of time.
he has never failed to bleed brakes using this method

My son and i tried this and it worked like a charm!!

in the eventuallity that one would still have problems tho
i'd probably follow the advice that was given in the original posters,
and if this failed, i'd assume the MC or it's seals are bad
and replace them.

great thread!!

just my 2 cents

iowa

 

I've got the same problem as most others. Mine is a 2000 Ranger with the clutch engaging about one inch from the floor. It started with low reservoir.

I know Hank has a great solution, but I was hoping not to have fluid in the cab, and not having to fight the circlip.

So I tried what seemed like recommendation #2 or #3 on this site. That is applying vacuum at the bleeder. Some posters say to push the clutch, some don't, so I didn't.

In the process we did drain some fluid from the bleeder, though despite a good connection to the bleeder, the vacuum would max at 5" and then drop to zero with the bleeder open. With the bleeder closed we could hold 28" vacuum, just as a test.

In the process, we lost the clutch pedal completely!

My question is whether the entire system should be able to hold maybe 10" of vacuum, or if those of you who have tried the vacuum approach, had any problem drawing down most of the reservoir and holding it down.

A few posters here and elsewhere used pressurized fluid going in thru bleeder, however it seems that if I can't hold a small vacuum, then it's unlikely that it would hold that positive pressure either. Make sense?

Tips on these two approaches would be much appreciated!

 

One poster in this thread mentioned that none of the bleeding approaches worked for him, including Hank's.

He found that an o-ring was out of place, and it sounded like it was near or in the bleeder fitting.

Curious if anyone knows where that suspect o-ring might be, as discussed in the thread?

 

look at this video
at about 2:40
it shows the o-ring

Ford Ranger & Mazda B-Series Pickup Clutch Hydraulic Release System Bleeding Procedure Part 2 - YouTube

there are several similar videos
we did it like most of them
except we didn't bench bleed

i think we described our technique above

iowa

 

I see the o-ring at 2:40 in the video. Thanks!

That seems to be Perfection's quick connect adapter. That adapter seems to be held in place with a wire clip. You can see that at 2:36 in the video.

Curious how the oem Ford connector attaches. Does it also have the same kind of wire clip, or is it threaded into the slave?