Larry,

The o-ring goes into the bottom of the master cylinder first. Then you place your line in. Hope this helps.

 

So I tried Hank's solution and it seemed to work with one exception, now when I depress the clutch, it leaks fluid on the inside of the truck evertime I let the pedal back up. I pulled out the piston and cleaned it and added some white lithium grease to the rubber seal but it didn't help. Is there an o-ring or something else that I'm missing some how???

 

You should never pull the piston completly out of the cylindar. It is just about impossible to seal the piston again. I would suggest a new master cylindar.

 

My local ford dealer replaced my 2000 ranger clutch and slave cylinder but left air in the system in spite of continuous bleedings. The clutch would catch an inch from the floor.
The solution: Bleed the clutch system with vacuum. Use one of those pump-jars they use for brakes or make your own vacuum canister, as i did, using a glass mayo jar. Drill 2 holes in the lid and install 2 vacuum fittings just the right size to hold 2 vacuum lines. Hook one long vacuum line to a port on a running engine which will give you 19 pounds of vacuum. Hook the other line to the slave fitting after placing the 8mm wrench on the fitting first. While an assistant holds down the clutch pedal, open the fitting and let the vacuum pull the fluid and air into the mayo jar. Snug up the fitting while there is still vacuum in the line. Repeat process after pumping clutch a few times. My clutch now catches about 2 1/2 inches from the floor, just as god intended! I hope that this works for you folks--it worked for me.

 

Been reading through a ton of forums all with about this same problem, seems that the Ford Ranger has a crap clutch all around, my fiancee has a 2000 FR and had every one of these problems, but as Im not able to remove the bell housing to get to the internal slave... she had to pay 500+ in labor and another 400ish for parts.
Now our mech says that there is a grove or flat in her MC thats giving it 1-1.5inch of play and he cant seem to remove it... so now Im wondering what to do.. they want 115 for a new one that lists at 60-70 from autozone.. and another 125 in labor, I could try to change the MC as its mostly an external part though its nicely wedged up under the dash but I worry that I might run into problems with bleeding after, also Im guessing I could forge out a Kent-Moore tool # J-36221 as long as I could get the dimensions.. I have seen it listed as $90.00 on some sites....I just dont know what to do next we are young and broke and she needs her truck. Any thoughts? mostly about this "worn master" that this guy cant seem to remove... Many thanks for the bleeding instructions~

Wesley- Black Flag Forge

 

yes it is a PIA but with patience it can be done. As to leaking after pulling the piston make sure the oring is still with it as I recall it is pretty small just cant remember. The trick is not to pull out all the way just enough to get the air out.

As for hblack forge not sure what tool cost $90, if its the one for the disconnect most stores sell them for around $5. As to $900 for a slave cyl I hope that included the clutch and everything!

If you decide to change out yourself, the video that was linke earlier is OK IF you want to pull out all the lines. If not leave the line alone, get the roll pin out at the master and then when you replace make sure the O ring is in place that will cause the problem if its not. assemble fill with the fluid and then bleed like I have posted elsewhere PRIOR to trying to push in the pedal, so you will need to fill, sit and then after a few minutes take the piston loose to bleed refill and bleed again. Sorry its a PIA but that is the best I can tell ya after having done mine about 3-4 times which was a result of bad trans, worn clutch, bad slave (after) after I had replaced it, then a bad master. Pull the driver seat to work under the dash makes it easier.

 

thanks hank, Ill do my best, now I just need to talk her into cleaning her damn truck so I can remove the seat!

 

BlackFlag, ask yourself: "Why is there now[!!!] a groove in the MC when it wasn't there before?"
Do you think maybe the old MC and slave weren't bled properly when the mechanic installed the clutch, etc?

That would be my bet. Find out what the local Ford dealer would charge to bleed the system. Could be all you need is to get the air out. Lots cheaper than a new MC and labor.
tom

 

ditto. bad back lack of info, gonna see if Hank's idea will work for me. GAWD I HOPE SO.

 

Hi Guys,

Has anyone tried this bleeding solution shown in this youtube video? This seems to make sense.
YouTube - Ford Ranger & Mazda B-Series Pickup Clutch Hydraulic Release System Bleeding Procedures

George

 

It could if you were to tear out all the system to bleed this way. I have posted before a simple way but you would need to get under the dash to do. It works beleive it or not.

 

i award you with 100 stars award.

 

Thanks Hank,

I am replacing the master cylinder and the line to the slave cylinder. The "quick connect" isn't so quick and is stuck. I had to cut the line off. But I'm keeping your idea handy just in case.

I still like the video as it gives some detail to what the clutch bleeding problem is all about.

Thanks again,
George

 

well maybe if you are replacing the line and all then maybe you can bench bleed while its all out before installing as a unit like in the video. Did you buy another QD line? if so just assemble all and leave as a unit for the install. With the master out you can turn it all up so that the air can be released to the resevoir. Open the QD stop to enure solid stream of fluid prior to connection to the slave. I bench bleed my slave prior to install but dont recall if you are changing yours. Maybe use the old QD if you can to bleed the slave prior to connectiong the line so you dot get air in the system.

Lotsa luck.

 

Thanks Hank,

Good ideas. I'm installing almost all new parts for this clutch, including a new slave cylinder. I might try this.

George