I just bled my rear brakes, after a line let go. I used the mighty-vac vacuum system. Worked better than I thought it would.
Might be worth a try on the clutch bleeder valve. $39.00.
They also have a bleeder line that locks on to the bleeder valve. Crack the bleeder, and the line lets air and fluid out, but won't let any air back in [one way check valve]. Can't comment on it as I used the mighty vac first, and that gave me a good pedal. Hard to get a good pedal once the abs system gets air in it.

 

Well after all of this time has gone by with all the helpful suggestions the one thing that worked was time. When the truck sat overnight and using the cluth pedal enough it seemed to work the air out. Although the rest of the discusion on this post sounds very good and useful for anytime I run into this problem again.

 

By far the best set of instructions I've come across yet on FTE. Ford dealer and tranny shops could not get the clutch bled properly on my 96 Explorer. I lived with the crappy clutch for 3 years. I did this a couple of weeks ago and it works like a brand new vehicle. Thanks a grillion Hank.

 

Just bringing a dead post back to life for a bit to say that Hank's trick worked for me also. I bled and bled the system, but couldn't get anything to work. The pedal just kept slapping to the floor. Had my friend look up on this site and he came across this post. Hank's suggestion worked like a charm and the clutch feels like brand new now.

Thanks again Hank.

 

Basically, using Hanks method, all one is doing is "bench bleeding" the MC while still in the truck. Seems to me doing this while still attached to the truck would be quite a chore, and as niteowl points out, could could get quite messy and subject to error.

Using the vacuum bleeder works fairly well. The problem with these things is they allow an air leak around the threads on the bleeder valve. You have to keep the valve fairly tight and this slows the process. I have tried teflon tape on the valve threads, and still hasn't worked that well.

Air pressure bleeding is the best. Low air pressure. One system I looked at uses the air in the tires for a source, and a regulator valve to drop pressure to around 5-8 psi.

I use the following method, and it works for me. When pumping the pedal, use short strokes, 1/4 the way up, no more than a third. Pump slowly. Pump maybe 20 times, bleed, repeat. When you start to feel pedal pressure, bleed as usual. jd

 

If anyone here owns a 1998-2000 Ranger, 3.0 , I need to know why I can't open the clutch bleeder valve, every time I turn that little valve, the part that has a rubber bushing on it, which is attached to the slave cylinder is what's turning but not the valve?

 

I have heard that raising the rear end of the truck will allow air bubbles to migrate. Have not tried it ...
tom

 

I don't to make this sound too easy but......

I did a 01 F-150 a while back and a 98 Ranger a week ago without any trouble.
Both seemed about the same in design.

After hooking everything up I have someone ready at the top side with fluid and I hook a vac pump, mine is electric but a hand pump one should do well too, I put a clear line on the bleeder and start it sucking, I open it up and my help (wife) keeps it from running out. You may see some air being sucked in from around the bleeder but you will see the main air come through plus the color of the fluid indicates when the new is coming through.

Both have taken less than 2 min and were perfect.

My tip 'o the day.

 

Guys,

You all have some fine points and proceedures. My mech said he raised the front till the rear bumper touched the ground and then he bled the system regular methode. That would work cause it would put the bubble to the outlet of the master and the bubble would pass to the slave and it is easily bled of air.

Raise the rear and the bubble would have incentive to go back up the fill line to the resovoir like god intended.

Then there is my method: The manual talks about releasing the pedal sharply and I wondered about that. They are trying to get the fluid to move so fast back into the master that it pushes the bubble into the resovoir line wher gravity will take its course. They even caution you to wait a couple of seconds till you repeat the proceedure so they want the bubble to get up the fill line. The problem with this is that the fluid won't compress or keep flowing (EXPAND) after the clutch hits the stop. The TRICK is to bleed a gulp of air back into the slave to allow the fluid to surge back up the fill line from the master. Put the air in the slave and then depress the clutch pedal and slip your foot off the pedal. A bubble or part of one will move up the fill line. Do this 10 times or so and then gravity bleed the slave to get the air out that you put in and all was sure well for me. Try this first cause you don't have to take anything apart.

Good luck

John

 

I work as a mechanic. The hand vacuum pump method is the best method bar none. We spent years pumping clutch pedals to no end. Hooking the vacuum pump tube to the bleeder and using a catch cup inline and somebody to keep the master full. Begin to suck out the air until you start getting fluid in the cup. Also a good method the flush the dirty fluid out of the system. Please not the hand vacuum pump method can be used to bleed a new master clutch cylinder, place the tube with a rubber adapter over the tiny vent hole in the cap. Pump until until the needle drops to zero and you see no air bubbles in line. Top off. The pedal will go to the floor then be rock hard the subsequent pump. Hope this helps

 

if all else fails pull the entire hydraulic system from the vehicle. from the resivoir to the slave cylnder. the reason the clutch is so hard to bleed is that she slave cylnder sits at such an angle that air gets caught in the top of it and won't come out. once you have it out of the vehicle flip the slave cylnder upside down from the way it sits in the vehicle. put pressure on the rod that goes to the clutch pedal and use a screwdriver in the end that connects to the slave to release fluid. run about three resoivors full through it. and when you are doing this DO NOT push the rod all the way in or you will not get it bled properly. once bled put assembly back in vehicle being careful to keep the resivoir above the rest of the assembly. once reinstalled bleed it once again to make sure that all the air is removed from slave cylnder. when doing this DO NOT pump the pedal before bleeding it. push the pedal to the floor and open the bleeder screw. repeat untill clutch feels normal.

this is last resort only because it is a major pain. i have had to bleed the clutch on my ranger twice: once i cracked the slave and the other time i blew the plastic line. i tried everyway under the sun and this is the only thing that worked for me.

oh and you will know when the assembly is bled when out of the vehicle because the rod will have no freeplay when trying to push it in without releasing the pressure with screwdriver.

 

I ignored my clutch for too long and the reservoir went low. No leaks that I could see. The air and brake fluid got together and gelled. The symptoms were intermittent hard/no pedal, fail to engage.

I followed this post to bleed the system. When I opened the bleeder valve no fluid came out. I then thought about the suggestions in this post that referred to using pressure to assist with bleeding the system.

I grabbed the bulb off of the kitchen turkey baster and pressed it onto the top of the reservoir. I squeezed the bulb slowly. To my surprise, several ounces of nasty looking fluid was in the container below the truck. When I refilled the reservoir it drained as expected.

I started over and followed the bleed procedure. The clutch has been fine for 2 weeks.

The shop by me wouldn't even flush/drain the system. They just wanted $1300 to change the whole clutch system. Granted, I need a new clutch and slave cylinder. But for a $1.99 turkey baster, now I have time to make a proper decsion.

 

My thanks to niteowl and Hank 85713, after struggling for 2 weeks trying to get a pedal I was ready to cook hotdogs over my burning 94 Ranger. I took apart the master from inside as Hank suggested and filled it with fluid as Niteowl tried. Great advice, worked fast, I'm on the road again.

 

Thanks again Hank, 5 guys I know wish they had read this before going thru a nightmare of no pedal.

 

no problem, thats why folks are here to pass on info learned the hard way. Maybe you will be able to find a "cure" for something that helps the rest of us.