Am I reading this right? Take the MC apart from inside the truck and let the fluid run out on the floor?

 

only if ya want to, no what you do is barely pull they cyl out till the air escapes, put a rag or something to catch the fluid.

 

ok, that sounds a little more reasonable......but not that easy!

 

I've been sucking out the reservoir 1/2 times a year along with the brake booster. With all the problems I've heard about bleeding the clutch wasn't sure if I want to attempt it. I plan on doing a brake flush in the spring might do the clutch also.

 

Hello,
Does this seem to be a problem on 2004 ford rangers as well?
Thanks,
James

 

The problem is with the design, there is not enough stroke to the pedal to push the fluid all the way from the master to the slave so the air stays in it. I took mine apart and filled the master, and the slave as well as the line with an old syringe. put everything together and it worked fine, Not that hard after I figured it out.

 

Well, apparently this is a problem with the 04 rangers as well, Finally got it! What I had to do was remove the reservoir, master cylinder, and the hydraulic line going to the slave, pretty easy to do, once you get into it, I was going to try what hank suggested by removing the "circlip" (also known as the lock ring) but it was just to tight of a fit, anyway after a full day of standard bleeding and getting pi$$ed off and throwing tools ,
here are the steps I took that got the job done...

1. Gravity bleed until no air bubbles were visible, keeping the reservoir filled at all times(the wife was a great helper).
2. Bleed the system normally, by pumping the clutch petal.
3. Removed the retaining bushing and rod from the petal.
4. Removed the plug from the starter interlock switch, removed the starter interlock from the rod, it was a little tricky at first, but the interlock will come apart along the length of the interlock switch.
5. Unhooked the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder.
6. Unbolted the reservoir.

Once everything was unhooked, I had to fish the whole thing out, on the inside of the truck, I pushed the rubber grommet through, then removed the master cylinder from the firewall, every where I looked it said to "unbolt it" but on my truck all you have to do is turn the master cylinder a 1/4 turn clock wise to release it from its mounting bracket inside the truck, once unlocked, I had to maneuver the cylinder, reservoir, and hydraulic line around until I had the whole thing out of the truck, this whole process took only about 20 minutes.

Once out of the truck, my wife held the reservoir up higher than the rest of the unit, and was sure to not let the reservoir get to low, I pushed the center of the hydraulic line fitting that goes to the slave cylinder, and allowed the fluid to flow for a couple minutes, then starting at the bottom of the line, I started tapping the line lightly with the handle of a screwdriver, slowly making my way up the line (the line has a couple weird turns in it, the line will swivel on the master cylinder, so as I was tapping the line, I was turning the line to allow any air bubbles to flow upward towards the reservoir) once I meet the cylinder I turned it so the connecting rod was pointing down, and tapped it several times, and sure enough, several small air bubbles came up to the top of the reservoir, I repeated this process a couple times, I let the system sit for about an hour, keeping the reservoir elevated to allow any tiny bubbles work their way up to the reservoir, then I reinstalled the complete unit back into the truck. (re-installation only took about 10 minutes)

Once the system was reinstalled, and rechecked the fluid in the reservoir, I gravity bleed the system until no more bubbles appeared in the bleeding tube on the bleeder valve, then with the help of my wife, pressed the clutch in one time and held it, cracked open the bleeder valve, waited for the fluid to stop, then closed the bleeder valve....Whooo Hoooo, had my clutch pedal back!!!!!!

 

On the 2oo5 ranger the arm snaps on to the peddle and if i try to remove it , it will break the plastic snaps. It works just low peddle.

 

has anybody tried puttin g a twin turbo system on a truck? im just wondering how hard it would be. i wanna use a f600 single axle dump truck engine, tranny, and rear axle and put in a broken down chevy for ****s and giggles. the engine from the f600 needs to be rebuilt, but i wanna put twin turbos on.

 

Yeah, I had that problem too, I did break two of the four tabs on the clip, but it still holds it on just fine, Even if you break the clip all the way, I'm sure its pretty cheap from the dealer.

 

If you can get just the plastic clips.

 

Even if you cant get just the clip, a washer a c clip would work, there is a groove on the pedal arm, that a c clip can attatch to.

 

start your own thread!!!!

 

All of the post on this site are very good advice. I tried everyone of them. They did not help. I changed the master cylinder on my truck and bleed it for 2 days straight. It would always get good clutch while the truck was off, but as soon as I cranked the truck the clutch was gone. Everytime I would bleed the system I would only get a few drops of fluid from the bleed valve. A friend helped me today find the problem. He removed the line going connected to the slave cylinder. He looked inside the line and noticed that the small o-ring had been moved and was not in the right place. After movig the o-ring back into place we bleed the system. Great clutch resistance.

 

1991 ford ranger... I have the same problem with the o-ring, but I can't figure which side of the quick connect (master cylinder side or the slave side) the o-ring goes on.

Thanks for any help
Larry