Drywall would be better than OSB from a fire safety consideration. 2x6s 24"o.c. is a good call, but then use the 5/8 fire rock: designed for fire code & more durable for the greater spans. Also consider using the green board (water resistant) for the bottom course (run your rock horizontal, of course), regular white 5/8 for ceiling & upper 6' of walls. A white or off white coat of paint will also make for a brighter place in which to work.

Do a little planning ahead for your shop layout to know where shelving, tools, etc. will go. In those locations where you will likely want to be hanging items & will not want to be tied to going up to 12 inches one way or the other to catch a stud, put in 2x6 up to 2x12 backer boards to provide adequate anchor points for your wall mounted items.

And, just in case there is still someone out there who does not already know this: Be sure that you ALWAYS have adequately sized proper type fire extinguishers in your shop! Everyone here wants you to stay around to keep working on your Ford trucks & interact here on this site about that work!

dn.

 

Like a number of folks said, "use 2 x 6" I moved into a new house this past summer and had to finish the shop. The structure was up and enclosed but bare inside. It had 2 x 4 walls and you can detect a little flex in the wind. After running one course of 1/2" plywood (CDX) on the bottom and sheetrock the rest of the way up, it seems to be much more stable. I think if they would have used 2 x 6 to start with, it would have been even more rigid. I like the sheetrock for the light it reflects. I have a number of 4' shop lights and the white walls keep my from having any dark corners.

If you build it the best you can, you won't regret it down the road, or have to fix as many "oh crap" 's

Bryan

 

Thanks for all the replies guys. I decides to go with 2x6 walls. There was only about $200 caost differenct and I figured it was well worth that. I dont think I'll drywall the inside. I was thinking of putting up some galvanized tin. Very reflective and resistant to welding/torch sparks. I just thought drywall would be too easy to tear up and poke holes in.

 

Great to hear.I don't think you will regret spending the extra money for a very sturdy building.Good luck with your project.

 

Uh, if that tin gets colder than the dew point in your part of the country, it's gonna sweat. Maybe if you fab some roll around frames on casters with some tin roof material pop riveted to the frame, you could use that as shields from sparks/arc light.

 

Ya, it doesn't matter what you drive it is whether or not you like it and can afford it. But some things can't be as easily fixed, like trading in a garage for a bigger stronger model unless you leave the site and rebuild. Are you going to stay? If so use the 2x6's cause yes they will stay straighter over time but will cost a couple bucks for a piece more, don't have to but you could consider still going 16" O.C. with the 2x6's, why you might ask? How many have a garage that we don't build shelves or hang things on the walls, again less flex and more satisfaction down the road and how many times have we been 6 inches short (I mean when fastening something to the wall to catch the next stud). If you fill the 6" walls they will cost a little more to insulate too whether they are 16 or 24" OC. Next, use 5/8" GWB on the ceiling and Walls too, why you might ask again? The 5/8" is a little more resistant to moisture and also is way more resistant to impacts (but not the car type impacts, maybe alittle). Why do I have an opinion, my garage is never big enough, architect and contractor too. Don't forget the emergency generation connection in the garage too, at least when everyone elses power is out you can be out there working on something. Good luck, build alittle beyond your budget and you'll be happier in a couple years - I guarantee it.

 

All,
2x6 is my selection. insulate it and drywall in 5/8".
5/8" drywall is fire rated and insulates sound better, as well.
It's expensive but you are only building one garage, aren't you?
Suck it up. I'm in the same exact boat and i am having to hold off construction until I can afford to do it right.
Please remember to clip all studs to base and top plate.
KingFisher

 

Its always wise to submit plans to your local building department. You can also look up your needs in the building code that is used in your area, either the UBC or the IRC. Some HomeDepots and similar type building supply stores will have some spiral bound books called "Code Check", they make a whole series of these books for building, electrical, plumbing, etc. These books have alot of the answers that you are looking for. They will give reference to both the UBC and IRC for the building book, and the NEC for the electrical, etc. Your local ordinaces might also require sheer walls of some sort to be used, also fire stop requirements for attached structures, etc. Look into the local ordinances and submit plans, this is all designed to keep it safe for you and your neighbors.

 

I just put up a 32x50x11 and it cost me $200 more to use 2x6 over 2x4's

curt

 

Hey, I don't want to stir anyone up, but have you considered do it yourself steel buildings? No paint, no bugs in the wood, no fire fuel, etc. There are places that you can back up to and take home your steel and it goes like an Erector set...Anyone out there been there, done that?

 

I would use 2x6 because in the winters you're sure going to have a nice warm shop to work in. Your exterior walls won't be wavy as you look down the 30' sides. These walls will give your roof more support such as if snow piles up on it. It will keep sound to a minimum for your neighbors and/or wife!