2x4 or 2x6
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From: Smithton
2x4 or 2x6
Getting ready to start framing my 24x30 garage. The walls are going to be 10ft tall. I was going to use 2x4 walls, but have really starting thinking that I should go with 2x6 instead. Local codes say that 2x4 is fine, but 10 ft just seems like a little too much.
The main reason I was going with the 2x4's is cost and they will give me 4 more inches of interior space all around. What do you guys think, is a 10 ft wall too much for a 2x4. BTW they will be on 16 in. centers.
The main reason I was going with the 2x4's is cost and they will give me 4 more inches of interior space all around. What do you guys think, is a 10 ft wall too much for a 2x4. BTW they will be on 16 in. centers.
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From: The County
I would depend on the pitch of the roof if you are in a location where there is snowfall.I'd go with the 2x6 myself.You could go with 2 ft on center with the 2x6 if your code allows.Codes differ from place to place.Not knowing what you are using for sheathing,or where it will be located,like in the hurricane belt,or a place where there may be high winds,could be a factor also.If i am correct in thinking that it will be 24 ft.wide,I think I'd go with the 2x6 just for added support.Thats a good size garage.The sheathing on the roof may be a factor also.Theres quite a weight difference between strapping and metal,or plywood with asphalt shingles.I'm not a contractor,just someone who has helped build a few.lol.Just my thoughts on it.Good luck with your project.
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From: Smithton
I guess I should have given some more information. It will be sheated with 7/16 OSB covered with siding. The roof is a 4-12 pitch with pre-built trusses on 2ft centers. Roof will be sheated and shingled.
I live in mid missouri and we get a little of everything for weather. Snow in winter and some high(40 mph) winds in spring.
Also it is 24 deep and 30 wide. Yeah I know its kinda weird, but I am doing the most with the space I have.
I live in mid missouri and we get a little of everything for weather. Snow in winter and some high(40 mph) winds in spring.
Also it is 24 deep and 30 wide. Yeah I know its kinda weird, but I am doing the most with the space I have.
Last edited by 2Wise4aGM; Mar 6, 2004 at 10:24 AM.
Tuned
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The main reason for 2x6 on a building that size would be insulation. Structurally it wont matter. If it was 40 ft wide there might be a benifit if you were in a hi roof load area. I have never seen one cave due to wall failure even with 3 or 4 ft of heavy snow. You are going to have minimal snow load, not a concern at all.
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From: The County
Tornado ally? Ouch.I'd check on the codes for fasteners for your roof trusses.Also I'd look into what type of footing is recomended for your walls,like the size and type of anchor bolts,and what distance apart they may need to be.You may need to make it a little more secure than the average building.The 2x4 walls wont come crashing down or kick out in a normal situation like mentioned before,but tornados are nasty.I'd rather be safe than sorry.Another thing we consider up here in the snow belt is which direction the doors are facing.We don't place the doors in the north wall because of opening them in the winter.I don't know your building plans ,but you might consider which way the wind tends to blow in your area in the winter.Helps keep the blowing snow out in the winter.
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From: Friendswood TX
Are you inside a city limit or in the county? The permit police in a city know just how little you can go when it comes to structure and fastening. Plus, just to make this hurt a little more <G>, keep in mind the impact on your property value and your insurance coverage. You build a straw house and later you find out the house was to be such and such mo bettah, I hope you don't have to file a claim later. Like they say, "measure twice, cut once".
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The building needs to be strong enough,,, not several times as strong. It is a small building. Spend the extra on some nice finish stuff. If you put block up 3 high it keeps rot from forming,, and you can use std 8 ft studs. There is absolutely no structural reason to go to 2x6. If there was it would be in local codes. You wouldnt need 2x6 until 40 ft wide. Each wall is supporting 12 ft here. Half the building. If you really want to do something for wind put a couple angle braces in the attic for the gable ends. Thats what blows out first in a storm,, which then lifts the roof off. In a building that size it take about 2 2x4's in each end is all. I went after huricane Andrew and looked at lots of them,, when the ends stayed so did the buildings.
Last edited by Sberry27; Mar 6, 2004 at 09:38 PM.
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From: ky
just my opinion but i would think about a metal roof. all the shingles i have nailed on even the 25- 30 yr , seems about 10 years wears them out. it may be the trend to go to more pitch these days that makes it worse. i know this summer a metal roof is going on my home.
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From: North East Ohio
If you're looking at the $$$, 2x4 16" o.c. costs about the same as 2x6 24" o.c.
It's the inuslation where you see a difference.
And I really don't think you'd notice losiing 3" inside.
It's the inuslation where you see a difference.
And I really don't think you'd notice losiing 3" inside.
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Originally posted by redv92c
Tornado ally. I would build as strong as your budget will allow
Tornado ally. I would build as strong as your budget will allow
If you get hit, it's all going to fly apart. And if it misses, you're usually homefree. The damage is so concentrated within the actualy funnel it's "all or nothing."
Last may, I saw 48' semi trailers smashed through each other and through brick walls, but between them were a few bails of hay that weren't moved an inch since the funnel had lifted up briefly and effectively 'hopped' over them.
Tornados don't warrant 2x6s. Tornados just warrant a shelter
Last edited by User 050423; Mar 7, 2004 at 10:30 AM.
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From: Alaska
A 30 foot long 2x4 wall will have a visible amount of flex in it. I've seen it in a similair shop, the garage door would open and things would fall off the shelves on the side walls.
Assuming this is an open shop (no walls or posts) nearly all the roof weight will be tranfered to the side walls. I would build it with 2x6s, minimum.
If you're hanging stuff from the walls, hang 4 inches of fiberglass insulation into the wall with 2 inch blueboard in front of that. If you drywall (which you should to make it look nice, and far, far more fire resistant) you will be able to put a nail or shelves anywhere.
I wouldn't use wooden shingels just for the fire hazard. 3-Tab looks nice and is easy to install. Metal roofing is easy and lasts a very long time, but keep in mind the rubber gaskets on every nail are only good for about ten years. Metal roofing will keep fire from burning the roof from the outside (think wildfires). If a fire starts on the inside of the shop, it will hold the heat inside the building and act like an oven.
As far as your original question, 2x6s minimum.
Assuming this is an open shop (no walls or posts) nearly all the roof weight will be tranfered to the side walls. I would build it with 2x6s, minimum.
If you're hanging stuff from the walls, hang 4 inches of fiberglass insulation into the wall with 2 inch blueboard in front of that. If you drywall (which you should to make it look nice, and far, far more fire resistant) you will be able to put a nail or shelves anywhere.
I wouldn't use wooden shingels just for the fire hazard. 3-Tab looks nice and is easy to install. Metal roofing is easy and lasts a very long time, but keep in mind the rubber gaskets on every nail are only good for about ten years. Metal roofing will keep fire from burning the roof from the outside (think wildfires). If a fire starts on the inside of the shop, it will hold the heat inside the building and act like an oven.
As far as your original question, 2x6s minimum.
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I wouldn't drywall the inside, you might want to look into using OSB on the inside too with two coats of white paint. OSB is more $ per square foot but you don't have to tape the joints etc. It is a tradeoff but the OSB will be more durable and will be easier to hang shelves etc. It will not be as fire resistant tho...
You may want to use pegboard in some areas.
-Things to think about
You may want to use pegboard in some areas.
-Things to think about
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Friendswood TX
Some more ideas from your friends on the Gulf Coast...
http://www.stormsurvival.homestead.c...ne_Straps.html
http://www.stormsurvival.homestead.com/Site_Map.html
http://www.floridacapitalnews.com/hu...052202roof.htm
http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/HAW2/pdf/against_the_wind.pdf
http://www.pascocountyfl.net/oem/homeprotect.asp
http://www.stormsurvival.homestead.c...ne_Straps.html
http://www.stormsurvival.homestead.com/Site_Map.html
http://www.floridacapitalnews.com/hu...052202roof.htm
http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/HAW2/pdf/against_the_wind.pdf
http://www.pascocountyfl.net/oem/homeprotect.asp