I've just bought all the parts for my audio system, and while im doing it, i am going to pull the entire interior, and dynamat it. I want to do all 4 doors on my crew cab, the floor, back wall and everywhere else i can get easily. Just wanted to know a rough estimate in ft^2, i see they come in 50 and 100' rolls.

 

I don't know the square footage, but have been told that you don't have to cover the whole interior. Strips placed periodically have the same effect. What I have seen is strips 4 to 6 inches wide on the floor and the roof with a 3 to 4 inch gap between them. Another option you might consider is lizard skin.

www.lizardskin.com It is sprayable and you buy it by the 5 gal bucket.

On edit - r u sure you don't mean 100 inch rolls?!? A 100 foot roll would cost about ten buhmillion dollars.

 

It took a whole bulk kit to do my doors. My plan for the floor is one bulk kit and I have 5 pieces of tacmat for the floor. I put either two or three sheets of tacmat and three pieces of extreme on the roof.

 

By 100', i mean 100 square foot. That lizard skin looks to be nice stuff, but at the cost of that, plus the applicator tool, that's a bit much.

 

Have you priced dynomat lately? For the amount of dynamat to do an entire truck, I think you will find the two of them are tit-for-tat.

 

Yes, they had a price increase last year. However, if you want to go cheap and don't mind the smell alot of people have had good luck with "grace's ice shield". It's supposedly like dynamat, just less refined.

There are some other products available as well, but I am going to stick with my dynamat.

 

there's some stuff Lowe's sells for roofing. I did my entire Nissan Frontier king cab with it for under $75. i forget what it's called, but one side is silver aluminum and the sticky side is kinda black tarish.

 

That is probably ice and water shield. I think it s what REAX was describing too. I don't see why it wouldn't work.

I have done several trucks, and I can say from experience, there are a few critical areas, to hit and then beyond that, it is all just extra money that could be spent in a different direction. If you walk around a stripped truck, you can tell the areas that really need it with just a small plastic stick of wood or somethin else soft. You can hit the body panels (NOT the painted part please) with the wood and it is like a resonance test. Areas that really need help will have a very brief hum, like a tuning fork. Areas that are pretty much good to go, will have a dull thud. You can usually hear it, just by smacking the body panel with your hand. I have found that on our trucks, the critical areas are, the rear cab wall, the rear cab floor immediately in the center behind the front seat, the tranny tunnel, in between the roof supports on the roof, and on the inner portion of the outer door skin. These are the areas that resonate vibration and that is what you want to hit with the Dynamat or equivalent. Dynomat does insulate for sound, but its primary purpose is to stop the natural resonation of the body panels.

For the inside of the door panels I like to use the spray in bed liner that comes in cans. I spray a whole can into each door in several thin coats, making sure not to overspray critical stuff like window motors and tracks, or water drains. Then I put strips of dynamat on the main part of the door where the door panel goes being sure to cover up all the holes. Then, if it doesn't have it already, I add Jute padding to the inside of the plastic door panels. I have found that most XL trucks don't have the Jute padding in the door panel, and the XLT and up models do. It also varies by year. The 06 model trucks even have pieces of white "batting" like they use in quilts stuffed under the dash. For the rest of the truck I do it like I desrcibed, I apply the dynamat in strips, and then for the areas in between, I spray in the bedliner stuff in cans. On top of that, I add an extra layer of Jute padding for sound deadening. If people REALLY wanna get crazy, they can get an undercoat done on the bottom side of the truck that will really knock any remaining noise down. Something else that I have heard several times but not tested, is that a spray in bedliner in the bed will stop a lot of road noise that resonates up through the metal in the bed.

I am doing some welding to the cab of my 02 right now, but when I am done I will be doing this process and can post some pics.

 

Old thread, I know, but there's a new product out called Ballistic. Anyone else seen it, used it, or heard anything about it? I've checked the technical specs, and it's thicker (at 2.0mm) than both Dynamat Extreme and B-Quiet Extreme, both of which are 1.6-1.7mm thick. The higher mass in the Ballistic should be a good thing for sound deadening, I would think.

http://www.ballistic-online.com/

Opinions and experience welcome.

 

bump... no one have any input on this new question in the old thread?

 

do a search...just the other day I saw on this site one of the members did his entire truck and had a ton of pics and prices...if I remember right it was in the $700-$800 range to do everything.

 

It's a part of the Metra family. It's probably a good product, but the instructors at II still preferred dynamat.

 

The instructors at what???

 

i just got 300sqft for my excursion of FATMAT rattletrap extreme. its 80 mils thick and has a double thick layer of foil than dynamat. FatMat Automotive Sound Deadener & Dampening Noise Killer Products i got it on ebay. it was cheaper there than on their site.

 

i did my ext cab all doors/roof/back wall an floor an it was about 460sqft but if your gonna use dynamat goodluck its like $200 for 36 sqft theres other stuff out there like fatmat if you like dynamat do the doors/back wall with it an the rest with fatmat sounds awesome!! goodluck!