I've got one time slip at 19+ seconds and 59 speedy MPH and a $225 towing bill :-(

I think I broke the oil pump drive shaft. On the way back to my grandmothers after racing, the oil pressure dropped to nothing. It started to chatter a bit, I saw the gauge and shut her down. Everything was still working, and ther is oil in the engine. So, I figure it's the Pump shaft. I think I used a Milodon...can't recall.

That's the worst of it, I hope. It didn't seem to get hot, so hopefully I didn't do any real damage.


As for the 1/4 mile runs. My first trip I was a nervous wreck, had the window down so I could not hear what was really going on from all of the noise from the POS RX7 running next to me. I spun through all of first, second and most of third when it finally hooked up (actually felt awesome when it grabbed). At that point I lost sight of the end of the track and just pulled out. posted an impressive 19+ second pass at 59 mph :-)

2nd pass- still a lot of spinning....16.80

3rd pass- a real soft start (but still leaving the 15 second ricer off the start), 15.90 at 88 MPH

Then on the highway on the way home, a hear a little chatter, notice the 0 oil pressure and shut her down.


I think I need a different hobby. But even with all the heartache, I'm thinking "Lock the rear get some 28x12.5" ET Streets and go back. Assuming I have not done any real damage.

Another day in the life of Greg!

 

Greg!! Sorry to hear about Oil problem!! I hope you didnt hurt the motor any? but you said you shut it down early so thats good!!

Sounds like you need to do some Mods...in the back... So you can get all that HP to the ground!! Good Luck!! Russ!

 

If I determne it is the problem, I assume my old shaft is no longer in position, top or bottom. Can I simply try to drop one in from the top without the clip to verify it is the fix until I have time to pull the pan?


BTW guys, here is the part I purchased for the Pump shaft. Doesn't seem like I went too cheap??? Of course, I have not even verified that is the problem.

Milodon Oil Pump Shafts

Machined from 4130 chrome moly and centerless ground to avoid stress risers. These race proven shafts eliminate breakage-prone units commonly associated with high volume oil systems, heavy racing oil and high RPM use. Ends are induction heat-treated to reduce wear. Chevy shafts use pinned steel collars instead of plastic.
697-22550 Ford 390 FE $19.99

 

That kinda looks like the ARP shaft. Call Milodon and complain. They will have a BS excuse more than likely. I would get the ARP and try again. That pan is going to have to come off. The motor will need jacked. Its not the nicest job in the world.

What were your 60 ft times? They are the most important.

 

60ft times are real bad. That's where It's the weakest, since I'm still running an open dif on SUV tires.

I just pulle the dizzy, it is the pump shaft. I don;t know if I can get the small pice that's stil in my dizzy out. It looks welded in now. Also, the remainder is stil standing int he pump, I can see it through the dizzy hole. No chance of just dropping one in anyway.

I've done the oil pan drop and shaft replacement several times.

I'm thinking it's a sign I should go DUI. I'll get a pic up soon of the bottom of the dizzy.

 

Here is a pic of the remnants. I'm thinking I should give up being a mechanic and look at photography :-)

http://www.thedreyerfamily.com/69f25...pumpshaft.html

 

Do you all consider the ARP to be the best bet?

Summit/ARP part number.

ARP-154-7902

 

And you think your truck is expensive?
My 35mm film camera cost $1500 (worth about $700 now) just for the body in '96, plus lenses.
The 35mm style digital I'm looking (drooling) at costs $7k+, plus more lenses.
Medium format, I won't even go there. But your looking upwards $15k just for a good basic setup.
And I have seen a lens, as in one lens, that goes for the cost of a house. And it's for a 35mm camera .

Stick with the truck, it costs a LOT less.

You should be able to drill out the shaft to get out the broken piece.
Can't wait to hear what it does when you get the traction issues resolved.

 

I think the ARP is the best bet. They are all about metal quality. That is very wierd that that one broke. Usually the stock ones hold up for a little while and they are much weaker. You must have had a hairline crank in the shaft that wasn't visible. You should be able to get that shaft out of the dizzy. It might take a dremel tool to doi it though.

So what were the 60 ff time numbers Greg?

 

I got the remnants out. I updated the pics on that page.

Now, just to order the replacement and install it....It will proabbly wait until Wed.

Maybe I can get my Weld Wheels and 28x12.5" Mt ET Streets in by then :-) I still need a locker..

 

Greg,

Sorry to hear about the shaft. I will be using ARP as they are supposed to be very reliable.

Sounds like you have plenty of low end if you are spinning through 3 gears. Not a surprise though. You knew you were gonna build big grunt. You definately have a locker and some big sticky back tires in your future. I think you'll like your performance once you do.

Which rear end do you have?

-Scouder

 

Dana 60. 4.10:1 gears

 

Same thing I have. I went with the Detroit locker in the back of mine. I had a dial indicator and stuff, so I just did it myself using a spreader that I borrowed and an installation kit that came from the same company that sold me the locker. Randy's ring and pinion. If you don't have access to a spreader it can and (considering your luck) will be a bugger. In that case it might be better to see if you can get a good deal on parts and install at a reputable shop.

If you put on those sticky tires and install a locker you will start to see some impressive times.

Do you have a driveshaft loop?

-Scouder

 

Mine is a 16 spline axle setup. there doesn't seem to be many lockers for that setup. Plus, I want something street friendly.

 

The dana 60 is a great rear end but I like the parts availability of the 9". The lockers are very street friendly from what I hear. I don't think you would like my setup though. The spool would suck for towing or hauling. With a bunch of weight in the bed it would be hard on the axles.

My buddy had a detroit in the back of his 65 custom and I could barely tell it was there on the turns. It sure did nice burnouts though.

Are you getting emails from me Greg? I haven't recieved any for a few days now. Even the ones I sent to myself!

EDIT: My email is back up but the messages that weren't recieved during that time didn't go through. It was all my fault too! Gotta watch the size limits.