I seriuosly doubt it was RPM. I was only running about 5200rpm before shifts.

I'll inspect the pickup and pump when I remove it. I could not find an upgrade pan or pickup that I think would work in this 2wd truck. I'm replacing the pump just to be safe.

I may have tightened down the dizzy retainer bolt too much. Putting additional stress on the pump shaft. I know I was over 12 ft/lbs, but it still seems unlikey that I put enough into to it to damage a 4130 Chromoly rod.

I don't think I have any shortage of torque. But it definitley accelerated slower after 70 mph or so.

 

Mine slows down bigtime too. The wind really plays a big factor. I have ran even or ahead with sports cars at the track and then after about 70MPH they roll on past and grab the win.

 

Rat, on your site you say to run a rear sump if possible. Do you think one will work in gtex's truck?

 

Ratsmoker,

Vaseline was an old trick to prime the pump so it would pull oil faster on initial startup. Spinning the pump with a cordless or something to build oil pressure prior to startup makes it unnecessary.

-Scouder

 

I don't know. I have wondered this for a while too. I am trying to find someone who has tried this. Either the pan could hit the crossmember or get hit by the steering tie rods. It may work great. I would be happy with a stock rear sump pan.

Thanks Brian. That makes sense.

 

Exactly what happned on my last run Friday. I was up against a 15 second Honda, and I left him off the line, but when I hit third gear he started gaining on me fast and past me right at the 1/4 mark. It made it a lot more fun, but I was kinda wishing I was in my other more aerodynamic ride (it pulls hard all the way to 120+ MPH). It's obvious we have to make up our time at the launch. Maybe I should just order those stickies now:-)

 

I took my 1972 f250 ranger xlt for a rip down the 1/4mile a while back.... It got a stock 390 w/stock 4v carb, t-18 four speed, and 4.10 Dana 60 ltd slip that works. I juiced it a bit for take off and peeled the tires, bogged out a bit as the axle locked up, once I got going I was on my way to 16.8second 1/4mile @85ish mph...

I used to have a 250 cs w/360 four speed+4.10 gears.... I got that thing up to 45mph in second gear, put the clutch in with pedal still to the floor dumped it into third razed it up to 5500rpm then into fourth for a 16 second 1/4mile @90ishmph.

These were cold runs, warm runs were 17-18 seconds. MY ranger should do better now that the brakes don't drag anymore... Thesee trucks really go for their age

 

yes I am an extreme Drag racing Fan ITs got be my fav. thing and every time I launch in one of these trucks even stock it makes me feel proud even if it isnt that fast.....

 

Greg, it isn't that it is overtightened, it is because the distance between the oil pump and dizzy is shorter than the pump shaft. It could be caused by block decking, head milling or just an unlucky combo of tolerances. Intake dizzy hole out of size-not sure on that.
You guys are giving me an itch under my right foot!!! I have got to get my '66 on the road!!!!

 

If yall are looking for low 1/4 mile times, this guy hits mid 11s to 12s and has lots of footage (including smoking a ricer ):
http://www.superford.org/registry/ve...il.php?id=3878

I got the FMS windage tray and it's purdy; things get pretty thick with all of the gaskets though.

 

I would check to make sure the oil pump shaft turns freely after the pump is installed, before and after the dizzy is put in. If it is bound up this may have caused issues. The tightness of dizzy bolt should not make any difference. The dizzy seats on the top of the block and can not go any further no matter how tight the bolt it.

I would also install the dizzy without the oil pump shaft and make sure it turns freely. The dizzy gear should not touch the block after installation. The height may be slightly off and cause binding.

As for oil pans find a FT (big truck) oil pan. It is a large flat bottom version that hold like 12 qts. I have one on my '69 F100 and it works great. It is no deeper or wider than a stocker,just long/flat. I welded a couple baffles in it to help control oil slosh.

As for pre lubing pump, I just poor some oil into pickup tube and rotate pump with fingers. Always works fine.

I would recommend a Motorsport windage tray. They fit with NO problems. If you try a Canton model it may not fit on a long stroke motor. Mine didnt, even after I cut it up and bent the heck out of it. They might have changed the design now, but it was original only made to fit a 390 CI motor. Go figure.

If you use a windage tray and the FT pan you will need to weld a tab on tray to hold pickup tube since the one that goes with truck pan goes to rear of pan. When putting all this together, you have to install pump, then windage, then pickup tube, then oil pan. Since there is two gaskets you have to work quickly so any silicone doesn't set up before you get it all together.

Larry

 

...and I have to wait until the track opens April 21st

Mike

 

This is gonna hurt! And I am sorry, but.....plan on a set of bearings. Yup! Rod and main. Puonding on these old beasties is expensive and can be painful. Better do the bearings now rather than wait until one of them spins or worse. Hell you are gonna be under there anyway, all smeared with grease and oil. No oil pressure and not noticing that until you could hear the engine rattle may be okay for a driver, but not a racer. Kinda makes a case for a Idiot light and gage.

 

Has anyone seen a low oil cutoff for the ignition? Something that would shut the engine off if the pressure got below a set amount, like 5psi or something like that. I seen a oil reserve that holds 3qts. under pressure. if the pump sucks air the reserve takes over until the pump gets oil again or the 3qts. are used up. the system is self filling. It's called acusump or something like that.

 

They are commonly called a Hobbs gauge. You can get them from summit. They also have them for fuel systems to shut down nitrous if your fuel pressure drops.

-Scouder