FE446 first track results :-(
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
The ET Streets- the main reason I'm going with them over slicks. the yare about the plny choice in 16 wheels. 16" wheels, again one of the few choices in 8x6.5" bolt paterns. I will not be driving on them to the track. No need to, I've got a set of 255/70r16s on wheels in good shape.
Torque peak- not really a peak, there's over 400lb-ft at the rear wheels from 2400-4600 :-) With the 255/70r16s, I'm turning 3400rpm at about 75 MPH. With these 28s, I shold be peaking at 5200 RPM at about 100 MPH. Hopefully, just as I'm crossing the 1/4 mile.
Oil is castrol 20w-50. Remember, I live in Central Texas. It was in the 60-70s F Friday night when things went south while I was driving north.
http://www.thedreyerfamily.com/69f25...fe446dyno2.htm
I have absolutely no desire to pull the crank or check any bearings....we'll see what hapens. cross your fingers! I'd just as soon it blow up, melt down or be done in whatever fashion happens. I've got a small fortune in cash, a lot more blood, sweat and tears in it and so far, I've had several "Wow, never seen that" incidents. Screw it...next project please :- )
BTW, that was Milodon's respondse "never seen that before. send it in and we'll check it out".....
Torque peak- not really a peak, there's over 400lb-ft at the rear wheels from 2400-4600 :-) With the 255/70r16s, I'm turning 3400rpm at about 75 MPH. With these 28s, I shold be peaking at 5200 RPM at about 100 MPH. Hopefully, just as I'm crossing the 1/4 mile.
Oil is castrol 20w-50. Remember, I live in Central Texas. It was in the 60-70s F Friday night when things went south while I was driving north.
http://www.thedreyerfamily.com/69f25...fe446dyno2.htm
I have absolutely no desire to pull the crank or check any bearings....we'll see what hapens. cross your fingers! I'd just as soon it blow up, melt down or be done in whatever fashion happens. I've got a small fortune in cash, a lot more blood, sweat and tears in it and so far, I've had several "Wow, never seen that" incidents. Screw it...next project please :- )
BTW, that was Milodon's respondse "never seen that before. send it in and we'll check it out".....
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
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From: Round Rock, TX
You could probably do a decent bearing inspection by just pulling a couple of the main caps while you're under there changing out the oil pump and adding in that windage tray. I don't see a need to remove the crank.
Say, when you're tired of this project, let me know and I'll come tow it up to my house...
Say, when you're tired of this project, let me know and I'll come tow it up to my house...
Last edited by bigric; Mar 10, 2004 at 03:44 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Phoenix Az, by way of Fre
Originally posted by Freightrain
ET streets are basically slicks with little itty bitty tread lines to make them DOT legal.
Alot of the hot street classes have to run DOT tires that is the one most chosen. They do hook, that is with a properly set up chassis. If you can't plant them, they will spin. Weight transfer is a plus.
Larry
ET streets are basically slicks with little itty bitty tread lines to make them DOT legal.
Alot of the hot street classes have to run DOT tires that is the one most chosen. They do hook, that is with a properly set up chassis. If you can't plant them, they will spin. Weight transfer is a plus.
Larry
They do hook, heck, I've gone 1.69 short times on them with stock suspension and only 292TQ to out of te hole, and you see hot street guys going 1.3's on 'em
but they are not as good a tire at the track as a full slick. Most guys in stock classes pick up nearly half a tenth in the 60' with the switch to slicks over 'dot slicks'Gtex, I think you'll be very happy with those tires, especially when summer roles around, and you don't feel like swapping tires at the track in 100*F... so you can bolt them up the evening before, or in the morning when it's cool, then drive to the track.
.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
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From: Texas
Guys,
can I poor a quart of earl in each valve cover and drive it about 30 ft into my shop, without doing any damage?
My shop is pretty much one-way in/out, so getting a 3/4 ton truck, not under it's own power, into my shop, is a procedure.
I need to install some floor anchors for a winch, but that's another project on the list.
BTW, some of the Summit blue aluminum AN fuel fittings arrived. they look pretty :-) I was also happy to see that the -10 to 3/8 MPT fitting for the tank is not stepped on the inside. It is straight full flow -10. It should provide a good flow from the monster tank. maybe, I'll keep the bed after all.
can I poor a quart of earl in each valve cover and drive it about 30 ft into my shop, without doing any damage?
My shop is pretty much one-way in/out, so getting a 3/4 ton truck, not under it's own power, into my shop, is a procedure.
I need to install some floor anchors for a winch, but that's another project on the list.
BTW, some of the Summit blue aluminum AN fuel fittings arrived. they look pretty :-) I was also happy to see that the -10 to 3/8 MPT fitting for the tank is not stepped on the inside. It is straight full flow -10. It should provide a good flow from the monster tank. maybe, I'll keep the bed after all.
Last edited by gtex; Mar 10, 2004 at 01:55 PM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock, TX
Well, pouring it into the valve covers isn't exactly going to lube the bearings. On the other hand, thirty feet probably isn't going to cause any more damage than might have already been done. I've seen the pictures; I know you have alternate methods of pulling trucks into the shop
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Texas
Problem, if I use something to pull it into the shop, that something doesn't get out until the truck is running again :-)
We pulled the chassis up there once with my buddies Miata :-) It was hilarious. His rear tires were spinning and he was a sliding but got it up there. That was jus the rolling chassis with drive-train, no body. I can get soething small like the miat out my side door. But anything much bigger get's stranded.
Once we pulled the truck in with a lawn mower and suzuki ATV. Both drivers were hopping up and down to get traction while a third person pushed on the truck...nobodu was driving...pretty funny and a bit spooky. I wish we had video...You might be a redneck if........
We pulled the chassis up there once with my buddies Miata :-) It was hilarious. His rear tires were spinning and he was a sliding but got it up there. That was jus the rolling chassis with drive-train, no body. I can get soething small like the miat out my side door. But anything much bigger get's stranded.
Once we pulled the truck in with a lawn mower and suzuki ATV. Both drivers were hopping up and down to get traction while a third person pushed on the truck...nobodu was driving...pretty funny and a bit spooky. I wish we had video...You might be a redneck if........
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
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From: Round Rock, TX
I haven't seen the Miata pics, but the ATV and lawnmower ones were a real hoot.
I think you'll probably be fine for just a 30-foot straight shot. Is the old shaft still broken off in the pump? If not, and the pump isn't seized, I'd drop another shaft in there and turn it by hand just to get some oil moving.
I think you'll probably be fine for just a 30-foot straight shot. Is the old shaft still broken off in the pump? If not, and the pump isn't seized, I'd drop another shaft in there and turn it by hand just to get some oil moving.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
old shaft is still in the pump (what's not laying on my desk that I pulled from the dizzy). And the retainer is still there, so I'll have a hard time getting the shaft out from the top.
Sound slike I just need to get thos anchors installed or get the miata over here again :-)
Sound slike I just need to get thos anchors installed or get the miata over here again :-)
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Round Rock, TX
Or make some friends that can push reeeeally hard. I think you'd destroy the little Miata now that the truck's together. But hey, it's all about the ends.
Are you going to check out the bearings or just slip in the windage tray and pump?
Are you going to check out the bearings or just slip in the windage tray and pump?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
I installed an anchor. I had to go to a bolt store to get shorter bolts for those Fab Al. valve covers. While I was there I enquired about a concrete anchor bolt, and that had just what I needed :-)
I then went to Harbor Freight (second trip today) to get that $40 electric 6000lb winch they had on sale. They were sold out :-( I did get the concrete bits needed and a 4 ton come-along. It's a pretty short cable. I'm gonna need some help.
Since I have not recieved the oil pump, windage tray, shaft etc, I might take a little time to inspect the #5 bearing.
So, which one is # 5? I assume we are talking about the main bearings.
I then went to Harbor Freight (second trip today) to get that $40 electric 6000lb winch they had on sale. They were sold out :-( I did get the concrete bits needed and a 4 ton come-along. It's a pretty short cable. I'm gonna need some help.
Since I have not recieved the oil pump, windage tray, shaft etc, I might take a little time to inspect the #5 bearing.
So, which one is # 5? I assume we are talking about the main bearings.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,268
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From: Eureka, Ca.
Take a small deep socket that just fits over the oil shaft. use it to knock the retaining clip off the shaft. It doesn't take much. Then use a magnetic screwdrver. The kind that use bits. The hex on the shaft is exactly the same as those little bits. Unless the shaft is stuck in the pump it will come out with the magnitic screwdriver. Drop in a new one and drive it in the shop.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Eureka, Ca.
I have the ARP shaft, so it may be differentbut the shaft gets big just after the hex part that goes into the dist. when you force it down it will snap the ring off. This happened to me when the shaft wedged itself into the dist (I over tightened dist without making sure it was seated properly) when I pulled the dist. the ring broke and the shaft came out with the dist.