FE446 first track results :-(
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
I was looking a the oil-pressure fuel cut-off switches when I bought my fuel pump. Sure seems like a good idea now.
As for the bearings. They are FM Race bearings that probably didn't have a 1000 miles on them. It didn't talk very loud to me. I think the rollers were getting a little dry so it made more noise than usual, then I shut it down.
I'd sure like to determine the cause of the failure. Maybe I can take the remnants to the failure analysis team here at work :-)
I alos need to call Milodon and see what they have to say.
As for the bearings. They are FM Race bearings that probably didn't have a 1000 miles on them. It didn't talk very loud to me. I think the rollers were getting a little dry so it made more noise than usual, then I shut it down.
I'd sure like to determine the cause of the failure. Maybe I can take the remnants to the failure analysis team here at work :-)
I alos need to call Milodon and see what they have to say.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,117
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From: Evanston, WY
Here's my problem with the suggested use of a hobbs gauge. They say to cut of your fuel pump when the oil pressure drops. So, what is happening to your oil starved engine while the float bowls are trying to run dry? I think the thing to interrupt would be the ignition, not the fuel pump. JMO.
-Scouder
-Scouder
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 9
From: Sun River St. George
I have heard of a system that uses a cylinder with a floating piston pressurized on one side by gas. As oil pressure comes up it compresses the gas and fills the cylinder with oil. Whenever pressure drops the gas pressure forces the oil out to the engine. This system uses a valve controled by the ignition. When you turn on the switch, oil is forced out by the gas pressure, eliminating dry starts. When the engine fires and oil pressure comes up the cylinder refills. This system would help in the case of intermittant low pressure and works well to eliminate dry bearings on startup. Connecting the ignition to a grounding pressure switch with a bypass for startup would kill the engine when oil pressure drops below a certain point. I still like a nice bright red light. Used a trailer tail light stuck in the middle of the dash on the dirt car.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Eureka, Ca.
That's the same as what I was talking about. It's made by Canton. It's called a Acusump. Summit has a oil cutoff for 13.00 shuts it down using the ignition. Learned all this in half an hour. Isn't the internet great.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I think for cheap money a simple pressure switch and a BIG red light hanging under the dash or such would a great job. It would not have to be seen by everyone, but big enough to make it noticeable to you. You could even use one of those shift lights. They look a little more professional. I know most race cars just have a red marker light assembly mounted to the dash.
I would stay away from fuel pump shut off, only because this creates a major lean condition that is not good on a motor either, especially if you have it up in the rpm's. I think a simple relay built into the power to coil/MSD or such would shut the truck down without any possible causes for lean out.
Larry
I would stay away from fuel pump shut off, only because this creates a major lean condition that is not good on a motor either, especially if you have it up in the rpm's. I think a simple relay built into the power to coil/MSD or such would shut the truck down without any possible causes for lean out.
Larry
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 9
From: Sun River St. George
Do a GOOGLE search for Acusump! Very good reading and not really that expensive. I think this would be really good insurance for you racers.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
I've never been lucky enough to just have lost oil pressure.
The reason I lost oil pressure was cause the back half the crank/block was laying somewhere NOT near the rest of the motor.
I have yet to see ANY race car with a Accusump on it. Maybe more in the roundy-round ranks, but drag racers not. I think I would stick with the simple light/shut off scenario
Larry
The reason I lost oil pressure was cause the back half the crank/block was laying somewhere NOT near the rest of the motor.
I have yet to see ANY race car with a Accusump on it. Maybe more in the roundy-round ranks, but drag racers not. I think I would stick with the simple light/shut off scenario
Larry
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
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From: Texas
I'll admit I was dissapointed to see the pressure gauge at 0, but I smiled a bit when I did not see any oil or crank parts on the ground :-)
The $400 in parts from Summit is on the way. I love those guys. Maybe it's a love-hate relationship :-)
I also found that I can still get the same style wheel in a 16x10 size. Now, I just have to determine if a 28x12.5" ET Street tire will fit with the only offset offered (-32mm).
Maybe I'll just pull the bed for racing. But that takes weight of the rubber, Although, I should have the rear locked and better rubber...Hmmmm....Maybe an aluminum fuel cell mounted over the axle....just another $200 bucks. then an aluminum diamond plate flatbed to accomodate the bigger tires...yeah....Somebody stop me!
The $400 in parts from Summit is on the way. I love those guys. Maybe it's a love-hate relationship :-)
I also found that I can still get the same style wheel in a 16x10 size. Now, I just have to determine if a 28x12.5" ET Street tire will fit with the only offset offered (-32mm).
Maybe I'll just pull the bed for racing. But that takes weight of the rubber, Although, I should have the rear locked and better rubber...Hmmmm....Maybe an aluminum fuel cell mounted over the axle....just another $200 bucks. then an aluminum diamond plate flatbed to accomodate the bigger tires...yeah....Somebody stop me!
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I run the M/T 29 X 12.5 Sportsmans on my '69. I run an old Aluminum 10" wide slot wheel. Not sure of backspacing, but all clears good.
I found a 20 gal. fuel cell at Skummit on the return table years back and mounted it in the middle of the wheel tubs. Paid like $80 for it(clear plastic model--NO fuel sending unit needed). Just look out the back window and you know exactly how much fuel I have.
With those tires and a spool I got 1.9 60ft times. Not bad for a stick shift leaving at around 3500 rpm.
Larry
I found a 20 gal. fuel cell at Skummit on the return table years back and mounted it in the middle of the wheel tubs. Paid like $80 for it(clear plastic model--NO fuel sending unit needed). Just look out the back window and you know exactly how much fuel I have.
With those tires and a spool I got 1.9 60ft times. Not bad for a stick shift leaving at around 3500 rpm.
Larry
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,461
Likes: 4
From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
I guess I'll be lucky in the traction dept...LOL!! I have 3 fuel tanks on the truck... I will use 2 of them...But plug the one thats
centered in the back end..Need a little added weight?
just fill it with water!!! Russ!!
centered in the back end..Need a little added weight?
just fill it with water!!! Russ!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
You shouldn't need any weight in the back with slicks. My truck won't spin my dirt oval tires for the life of it after they get sticky. I swear I could have 100 more ft lbs of torque at stall speed and it wouldn't spin. Slicks are just as sticky. I'll post a picture of the tires later. I got them from a guy that used to post here named econodrag. He was getting them for $25 a piece after they outlawed them from racing.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix Az, by way of Fre
As Freighttrain mention'd, I'd chech to see that you can turn the pump.
My guess is that something siezed the pump causing the shaft to snap.
I went thru the same thing with my 302 not long ago... darn near identical story... decided to check bearings and crank just to be safe... crank was fine, needed new bearings tho.
Good Luck...
My guess is that something siezed the pump causing the shaft to snap.
I went thru the same thing with my 302 not long ago... darn near identical story... decided to check bearings and crank just to be safe... crank was fine, needed new bearings tho.
Good Luck...