outside cab light stays on

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Mar 9, 2004 | 03:09 PM

#16

MJEmerson

Senior User

Joined: Dec 2003

Posts: 383

Likes: 1

From: Mililani, Hawaii

Hey Beast....glad to see I aint the only one with a sense of humor that my mother would be ashamed of...lol.

BTW...I stand by my 90 percent estimate...lol

Mar 9, 2004 | 03:14 PM

#17

LxMan1

Moderator

Joined: Dec 2001

Posts: 22,436

Likes: 17

From: Louisville,Ky.

Oh and by the way, The speed sensor is in the tranny where the speedo cable would be. That is the rear ABS sensor in the axle housing.
Jimmy

Mar 9, 2004 | 04:29 PM

#18

Beast12

Post Fiend

Joined: Mar 2003

Posts: 14,413

Likes: 3

From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!

Quote:

Originally posted by MJEmerson
Hey Beast....glad to see I aint the only one with a sense of humor that my mother would be ashamed of...lol.

BTW...I stand by my 90 percent estimate...lol

HA! That's great!

-Matt

Mar 9, 2004 | 04:43 PM

#19

Alton Ray

Junior User

Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 97

Likes: 0

From: Lubbock, TX

I've been meaning to try the some lube ............................................. on my latches I mean.

AR

Mar 9, 2004 | 07:08 PM

#20

MJEmerson

Senior User

Joined: Dec 2003

Posts: 383

Likes: 1

From: Mililani, Hawaii

ahhh....what have I done...lol

Mar 17, 2004 | 06:52 PM

#21

jkromm

New User

Joined: Oct 2003

Posts: 2

Likes: 0

Dont use WD40, the switches switch tension was set too light. This is a known problem among F-150's. WD40 is a temporary fix which makes the problem worse later because it collects dust and gums it up more later. Trust me, I ended up taking my fuse out after the WD-40 stopped working. the door switches need replaced with new ones that ford sells that dont stick. The switches run around $8.00 a piece at most ford dealerships.

Sep 1, 2018 | 05:26 PM

#22

Jwennet

New User

Joined: Sep 2018

Posts: 7

Likes: 0

Same problem with ‘92 F150 XLT

Just bought a beater ‘92 for hauling. Have the same problem with cab light not turning off—lube suggestions didn’t work. Here’s the weird thing, when I took the bulb out of the cab light, the dome light remained on, as if it was looking for the next light in the chain. Here’s something else that’s mysterious, when I put the bulb back in the cab light fixture, it came on right away. As I tightened the screws to for the lens cover, the light flickered then went out, and the inside lights came on. When I backed off the screws no more than a few turns, the cab light came back on and the dome light went out.

It’s hard to describe, but the dome appears to be connected through contact points in the ceiling, vs. a standard wire harness and clips. Make sense? I figure a bare wire would short it out so nothing on on the circuit would work.

For the time being, I’m keeping the fuse out. In this model, the fuse only powers the dome and cab lights, radio, and the key alert chime.

This is my first truck, so any advice would is appreciated.

Thanks,

Jason

Jul 1, 2023 | 03:35 PM

#23

Lat

1st Gear

Joined: Feb 2018

Posts: 1

Likes: 0

1992 F250 XLT
I had this problem some years back and pulled the bulbs out of the dome light and the cargo light. Today, testing the voltage in the dome light with the doors closed, there was still 12 volts at the plug for the bulb. I used Superzillo spray lube in the driver’s door latch area and tested for current again and there was no voltage! I reinstalled both bulbs and they do work together when the driver’s door is opened or the light switch on the dash is turned counterclockwise. There is no contact interrupt switch on the passenger door, so I could leave that door open w/o any battery drain.

Much thanks to all that shared info on the door latch switch!!!