Okay, I know this has come up before, but I don't think I've ever gotten a definate answer. I'm looking at some lightweight travel trailer's (around 3500-4500lbs). My truck is a 98 4x4 Supercab with 4.0L OHV, and 5spd manual transmission, 3.73LS. I don't have my manual in front of my, but I think my tow rating is 3180lbs. The SAME configuration, but with an auto, is around 5,500lbs, is it not?
So obviously, my question is why is there such a drop in towing capacity with the manual tranmission? I've heard that the manual is a reliable transmission. I know the clutch is rather small, and some people have guessed that it might contribute to the low rating. I have a brand new clutch, and I figure if I burn the clutch then I burn the clutch, and I'll get a new heavier duty one. I would only be moving the trailer a few times a year, mostly just living in it. I also know that I've pulled over 3500 lbs before, probably closer to 4500. And that was with my canopy LOADED with stuff too, and had no problems, even did 45mph on the mountain passes.
Does anyone know of any difference in Ranger w/ autos vs manual, OTHER than the tranny? Radiator, rearends, all that stuff is the same right?
Sorry for the lengthy post, I'm just trying to figure out what the weak link is with the manual tranny, and if the truck would do okay. Modifications would include rear airbags, bilstein or rancho shocks, weight distribution/sway control hitch, brake controller, and maybe exhaust system and superchip.
I was going to post this in the towing forum but figured maybe you guys would know more about the particular tranny and stuff, and don't want to double post. Thanks everyone,
Brian J Wilson

 

If you are willing to replace the clutch, I'd say go for it. More than likely it will do the job just fine as long as you aren't planning a marathon uphill cross country trip. Watch the engine heat , and if you are pulling a long stretch uphill, consider pulling off at times to let everything cool down. If you plan the pull in hot weather, that will probably be the biggest concern. I think I would also change all the fluids to synthetic. Synthetics tolerate the heat better. How many miles are on the clutch now? Is it working OK?

 

IMHO - and from hauling/pulling loads up a steep, long hill with both my 93 4x 5speed and wifes 91 Explorer auto - both same setup - axle, etc - and both high mileage, the stick runs out of power a lot sooner, and have to shift down to make the hill, where the auto might shift later and pull faster/stronger.
Really don't think you'll have a problem considering what you plan on adding to your truck, and as long as you take it fairly easy on it. I pulled and hauled a load of flooring of about 6000 pounds, including trailer, wih no problems.

 

Thanks hreed. Clutch is working fine, around 6k miles on it. Wouldn't be buying the trailer right away. If I did, it would be a couple months. I'll be going to flight school soon and figure that I'll have to move quite a bit for a few years. Maybe a couple times a year, maybe more, maybe less. It would more than likely be empty (or close to it) when towing. We're tired of trying to rent apartments and signing 12 mo leases, throwing all of the money away. Anyway, won't be moving the trailer a lot. When I'm traveling long distance and towing, I usually travel at night when there's less traffic and the air is cooler, for better performance and less heat in the engine. My driving's also much less agressive when I don't have to deal with people. I agree about the synthetics.
I was just coming back to edit my post too, before anyone tells me to buy a bigger truck. It's out of the question right now, so don't even think about it .
Brian

 

What kind of flight school? What are your plans? Been there-done that kind of thing.

 

Thanks also to modeltford.
Hreed, I'm planning on going to Hillsboro Aviation and getting my Rotorwing Commercial, and CFII license. Lot's of debt in my future But I just LOVE flying helicopters and can't wait to get paid to do it. I'll probably take the common route of flight instructing for a few years, then, who knows. Firefighting, EMS, tours, it all sounds good to me. The outlook for professional heli pilots looks better then fixed-wing to me, with all the laid-off airline pilots looking for fixed-wing jobs. A good number of heli pilots are from Vietnam and almost ready to retire, which should open up jobs for the newbies (atleast we all hope). I still understand that jobs can be hard to come by, hence the desire for a travel trailer, so we can get up and move easily. The wife is working part-time, going to college online, which she can do anywhere! Should be good for a few years until I can find a more permanant job. Sorry to everyone else for my babbling. What's your flying experience, hreed?


Brian J Wilson

 

You have 4.0 and only 6,000 miles on clutch and you are chickin out on towing about 3500 lbs for couple times a year?
I have 94, 2.3, manual and I am towing my mowing equip on 5 by 8 trailer loaded 4 times a week for 2 years without problems, so you should tow more often.
The key is go "easy" on towing/shifting/gas and don't use 5th gear.
Even automatic, you can not tow on OD, it is no no. 55 is top speed. For the best towing, check F 250.

 

Brian, with the proposed suspension/towing upgrades and your positive attitude with respect to the clutch being a wear item , I agree with all the advice from the guys (gals?) about your truck being more than adequate for your towing needs. You're just going to have to be active and alert on the clutch and brakes when you do tow, which is something you already know.

P. S. Good luck with flight school and whatever lies thereafter. I have a cousin who flew 'copters in the Gulf War who is now an instructor somewhere out West (can't remember where, he's moved around a bit). He loves those things like they are family. Maybe you guys will cross paths some time...

 

Thanks Rangerman and Rockledge. I figure the clutch isn't anything that can't be put on a credit card if it has to . But I definately will attempt to replace my next clutch on my own, as this last one was about $800. The trailer salesmen said that they do allow testpulls, and do them quite often. Just have to have the proper brake controller and hitch. My hidden hitch is rated at 600lbs tongue weight/6000lbs GVW with weight distribution. Max GVWR on the trailer is 6191 and dry hitch weight is around 500. Like I said, I'd be pulling the trailer empty, or damn near it anyway. I might have to try to find a hitch rated for a little more tongue weight just to have a bigger safety margin. I'm thinking I'll do a test pull after I get new shocks and either airbags or add-a-leafs, and of course a brake controller. I also figured that if I finance a trailer I'll just fork over the extra money for 4.10 or maybe even 4.30 gears. Now I'm on to researching brake controllers and weight distribution. Thanks again,

Brian

 

Another thought just hit me. I was planning on running all new trailer wiring to the hitch for a 7-pole plug to replace me 4 pole flat plug. I just remembered that the 4-pole plug it just plugged into a different connector behind the spare tire. Does the Ranger already have most of the wiring included for 12V charging and electric brakes? It would sure make things easier if I can just can a new connector and hook it up to the one behind the spare, and put in a brake controller and hook it up to existing wiring... Anyone know about this for sure?

Brian

 

I don't think 4 wires will be enough. That is just enough to run the brakes and signals. I think that Ford offered a "tow" kit, and it is possible that you have one, but the brakes will need another wire or two. As for the flight school, Hillsboro has a very good reputation in the industry. You picked a good one. And I am one of those Viet Nam guys getting ready to step down to make room for guys like you. Been flying these things for 30+ years. Just renewed my instructor ticket yesterday. If you would like, I can send you a personal e-mail and give you my thoughts on your future aviation career.

 

There is a harness on mine clipped onto the spare tire carrier. It might be ther on yours too??? Mine was really dirty from never being used in 65k miles, but it was still there.

About the difference in auto and manual, there SHOULDNT be any difference. Mine has the optional 5 speed auto, and all the gears are the same ratio as the manual. The clutch has to be the weak link. I dont understand why there is any difference at all????

 

The gears arent the same ratio. And you have a torque converter,
1.8-1 torque multiplication or so.

Rand

 

D'oh! My whole reply got accidently erased. Let me try again.
Hreed, I'd love to hear from you and any insight you have to offer, I'll PM you my email.
I don't think I was real clear on my last post. I think all the trucks have the same main wiring to the rear-end. Mine has the connector above the spare tire, which is what my 4-pole flat plug is plugged into. Upon closer inspection, there are either 6 or 7 wires coming into that plug, not sure. Did the Ranger tow package come with a 6-pole or 7-pole plug? I'm thinking that I should be able to get the same connector as the tow package and plug it in, maybe adding a few wires under the dash. Usually, there's a connector under the dash that has the 4-wire standard connector for a brake controller. So now I'm trying to figure out what comes standard with the factory tow package, anyone know? The Ford dealership here wouldn't likely give me any info that would be helpful.
From the other times I've towed, the only problem I had with real heavy loads is getting going in first gear which is a pretty high gear. I figure with lower gears it shouldn't really be a problem. Maybe I'll post over on the towing forum to see if someone knows about the wiring with the tow package. Thanks,
Brian

 

Okay, looks like it'll just be easier to post email here.

Brian