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It's up to you if you want to pay $1400 so your ABS works properly OR drive carefully and pretend you live in the time before ABS even existed! They say you can't put a pricetag on a life, but no ABS is not the same as driving around with steel belts showing on bald tires, no brakes at all, or blown out brake lights. If your brakes work fine (other than the ABS) I would tell them to bag it and just drive safe.
ouch.....$1400. I know that yellow ABS light is irritating, but for $1400 dollars I think I could get use to it.
Regardless, I looked in my service manual concerning the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU...I'm assuming this is the pump) and it listed 3 tests to perform. If the code pulled was DTC 1095, it said replace the HCU. Otherwise, check the pump motor circuit. Pin 2 on the anti-lock brake control module should read 10 volts. Pin 1 should have a resistance less than 5 ohms. If it passes these two tests, replace the HCU. Otherwise, you have a circuit problem.
If it truly is the HCU, you might be able to replace it yourself. The replacement procedure in the service manual read easy enought, but I didn't go out and look under the hood to actually see where the HCU is located. If you do determine to replace it yourself, try Five Star Ford in Arizona. I've ordered parts from them before (I live in Tennessee) and they are typically about 1/2 the cost of my local Ford dealer.
I was wondering if the "self-test" at start up checks for hydraulic pressure from the pump or does it just check the electrical circuit. Does the "open loop" message refer to an open electrical connection, like the motor running the pump is not responding, or no brake system fluid pressure building like an impeller in the pump is shot???