Distributor Cap Corrosion?
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Distributor Cap Corrosion?
Hi!
I've got an 89 fullsize Bronco with a 5.8L and C6 trans. If I start with a fresh distributor cap it is only a few thousand miles going by when I get rough running and I find that the inside posts on the cap are corroded/burned. It doesn't really matter if I use a cap with aluminum or brass for the metal. I've replaced the plug wires, plugs, and the TFI module on the distributor, all without any longlasting effect on the problem.
I've checked the timing for 10 degrees BTDC (with the SPOUT connector out!). The engine was recently rebuilt at 200K but I had this problem before the rebuild. I am the original owner.
Thanks!
Jim
I've got an 89 fullsize Bronco with a 5.8L and C6 trans. If I start with a fresh distributor cap it is only a few thousand miles going by when I get rough running and I find that the inside posts on the cap are corroded/burned. It doesn't really matter if I use a cap with aluminum or brass for the metal. I've replaced the plug wires, plugs, and the TFI module on the distributor, all without any longlasting effect on the problem.
I've checked the timing for 10 degrees BTDC (with the SPOUT connector out!). The engine was recently rebuilt at 200K but I had this problem before the rebuild. I am the original owner.
Thanks!
Jim
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 877
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From: Colorado, U.S.A!
Well, since nobody else has anything to say, I guess I'll say something. Welcome to FTE!
My distributor cap posts always look pitted and burned, too, but it doesnt seem to affect how the engine runs. Does the rotor look the same way? Did you replace the distributor when you rebuilt the engine?
My distributor cap posts always look pitted and burned, too, but it doesnt seem to affect how the engine runs. Does the rotor look the same way? Did you replace the distributor when you rebuilt the engine?
Last edited by c96drumm; Jan 30, 2004 at 10:15 PM.
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Thanks for the reply!
The end of the rotor did look "burned" also.
I did not replace the whole distributor. That may be the way to go since I've tried wires, plugs, cap, rotor and TFI module without much success. I'll have to troll though the messages and see what's a good unit outside of the factory model. I'd hate to see what Ford wants!
I had the neutral safety switch on the trans literally get scrambled internally such that I could not start the truck. Ford wanted $130 for the switch. (!) I took it off the trans and drilled out the posts that held the cover on. After cleaning out the old grease I reset the springs and roller contacts, clamped the cover down with two shiny stainless 4-40 screws and nuts and re-bent the outer tabs. Works like a charm!
Jim
The end of the rotor did look "burned" also.
I did not replace the whole distributor. That may be the way to go since I've tried wires, plugs, cap, rotor and TFI module without much success. I'll have to troll though the messages and see what's a good unit outside of the factory model. I'd hate to see what Ford wants!
I had the neutral safety switch on the trans literally get scrambled internally such that I could not start the truck. Ford wanted $130 for the switch. (!) I took it off the trans and drilled out the posts that held the cover on. After cleaning out the old grease I reset the springs and roller contacts, clamped the cover down with two shiny stainless 4-40 screws and nuts and re-bent the outer tabs. Works like a charm!
Jim
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 877
Likes: 1
From: Colorado, U.S.A!
Good job on that switch!
On the distributor, I was thinking maybe if the bearings are worn, the rotor might flop around a bit and make the thing overly sensitive to the condition of the contacts in there... Just a theory.
On the distributor, I was thinking maybe if the bearings are worn, the rotor might flop around a bit and make the thing overly sensitive to the condition of the contacts in there... Just a theory.
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