Distributor problems
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Distributor problems
I posted this question elsewhere but I thought I would try it here too. I am installing a remanufactured distributor in my Early Bronco w/ a 302. All I did was take out the old one and put in the new. Now something seems to be shorting out. With the key on, the ballast resistor overheats and starts to smoke. I disconnected the points from the distributor and held them in my hand. With a test light, (and the key on), I have checked up to the points and all seems to check out. As soon as I touch the points assembly to the distributor, everything shorts out, the test light dims, and the ballast resistor overheats.
Is there some kind of insulator inside the distributor to keep the entire housing from becoming electrified along with the points? Could I have purchased a defective distributor? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Is there some kind of insulator inside the distributor to keep the entire housing from becoming electrified along with the points? Could I have purchased a defective distributor? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
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From: Central Kali
Hmmmmn........the wire into the distributor goes to one side of the points. The other side is ground. Take a close look at the points and see if the side with the wire attached is grounded somehow. Put a piece of paper between the contacts and see what happens.
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I'm a shade tree mechanic so I was suprised to see that when the points close, the entire assembly becomes energized, including the base that is attached to the distributor. I guess the power must travel through the points contact, through the plate that the points are attached to, up the shaft to the rotor, etc. So as long as the points are open, there is no problem. As soon as the points close, Wham! Short,heat, smoke. This makes me wonder if there is some sort of insulator inside the distributor that is not doing it's job, allowing the entire distributor body to become energized and therefore shorting against the engine block. I'm sure the parts store will allow me to exchange the distributor for another, but I wonder if someone who knows more thinks this theory may make sense.
By the way, with the # cylinder @ tdc, is the rotor supposed to point to the #1 cylinder on the engine, or the #1 terminal on the cap?
By the way, with the # cylinder @ tdc, is the rotor supposed to point to the #1 cylinder on the engine, or the #1 terminal on the cap?
Post Fiend
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From: Central Kali
The rotor should be pointed at the cap terminal that is connected to the #1 cylinder plug.
The distributor does become energized in a way. It is grounding the minus side of the coil as it rotates.When it un-grounds the minus lead, a plug fires. I don't think the distributor is the problem. If you are drawing too much current, it has to be the ballast or the coil.
The distributor does become energized in a way. It is grounding the minus side of the coil as it rotates.When it un-grounds the minus lead, a plug fires. I don't think the distributor is the problem. If you are drawing too much current, it has to be the ballast or the coil.
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From: Virginia
Originally posted by Mike W
The distributor does become energized in a way. It is grounding the minus side of the coil as it rotates.When it un-grounds the minus lead, a plug fires. I don't think the distributor is the problem. If you are drawing too much current, it has to be the ballast or the coil.
The distributor does become energized in a way. It is grounding the minus side of the coil as it rotates.When it un-grounds the minus lead, a plug fires. I don't think the distributor is the problem. If you are drawing too much current, it has to be the ballast or the coil.
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JR, you either have a defective set of points that are shorting through the plastic insulator, or a bad condenser that is shorting to the distributor base.
I once had a brand new condenser with a short in it. It was a bear to find. You can temporarily disconnect the condenser from the points to check it, or test it with an ohmmeter.
I once had a brand new condenser with a short in it. It was a bear to find. You can temporarily disconnect the condenser from the points to check it, or test it with an ohmmeter.
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