Okay guys I have read 15 different ways to do this.My plan is to paint my entire truck.I plan on doing all the body work,priming,wet sanding the primer.My question is if I use a BC/CC when to spray the clear.Do I spray after I have sanded the base coat or do i not even sand the base coat and sand the clear?If I sand the base do I aply another coat of base and then clear without sanding?Or should I spray the clear on a sanded base.What is worrying me is my bronco is going to be red and after sanding the base coat I know it will look like a flat pink and I dont want to spray the clear and end up with a pink bronco.Willl the color look as it should once the clear is applied?

 

I have always done my finish sanding, paint the base coat then paint the clear. I dont know what others do but this has worked well for me over the past 2 years.

 

Thats one of the many ways i've heard to do it but i have seen that sanding the base coat will get rid of orange peel and any other flaws.

 

thats true but your orange peel comes from the base coat itself i tend to use a little extra thinner and when i paint my base coat i like to use a few thin coats instead of 1 or 2 heavy coats which also reduces the orange peel. also if when you have done your clear coat you have orange peel you can wet sand the clear and put another coat on which not only gets rid of your orange peel but will give the paint a better finish.

 

Thanks!!!I believe I have a game plan now!!!

 

<cr>
1) Do your bodywork
2) Spray with 2K primer
3) Blocksand (400 grit for solid colors & 600 grit for metallics)
4) Spray your basecoat
5) Spray your clear coat
6) Wetsand
7) Buff the sanding marks out

Steps 6 & 7 aren't necessary if you're good but plan on doing both of these steps.

The only time you sand basecoat is to fix a flaw. If you sand a metallic basecoat, you need to repaint before you clear. Clearcoat is normally applied as soon as the basecoat has flashed. For the product I use, that means you apply the clearcoat 30 minutes after the last coat of basecoat has been applied.

The basecoat will be flat (no shine). The only why to tell what the final results will be is to cover it with clearcoat. If you are concerned what the final outcome will look like, shoot a test panel.

I don't want to start a war but...

The orange peel comes from the clearcoat, not the basecoat.

 

I agree with aekisu 100% and after re reading my last post i see that i may have mislead mk84bronco. I didnt mean that the orange peel on the finished product is in the base,I was just refering to the preious post about sanding the basecoat to rid it of orange peel or other flaws. Sorry for any confusion and thanks to aekisu for explaining it better.

 

What should i buff with?I've been told a foam pad and rubbing compound.Doesnt 3m make a product thats not as abrasive as rubbing compound?Do I need to claen with anything after I buff to get the compound or what ever I use off?

 

<cr>
Buffing is a skill on to itself. Hard work and has pitfalls that can cause you problems with your new paint job but it is the only way to get that glass smooth affect. This is the order of things I follow.

1) Use a nib file to take off any run. This basicly files off the high spots.
2) Wetsand with 1200 grit until the clearcoat is smooth.
3) Wetsand with 2000 grit until the 1200 grit marks are gone.
4) Buff with an agressive compound until the shine returns.
5) Buff with a swirl remover.

I usually do steps 1-3, 24 hours after the clearcoat has been applied. Then I wait a week before doing steps 4-5.

The hazard of wetsanding and buffing is that you can cause cut-thrus. This is when you sand or buff all the way through the clearcoat, into the basecoat. The only fix for cut-thrus is to repaint the area that was damaged. Edges are the real problem area and some people put tape over the edge to provide some protection.

What buffing compound? Everyone seems to have their favorite. 3-M Perfect-It is one that comes to mind. I use Presta that I'm happy with. Meguier's (how ever you spell it) also has their system.

I like to use foam pads. Less change of cut-thrus.

You need to keep things clean. That means you will be washing, sanding with 1200, washing, sanding with 2000, washing, buffing, washing & buffing. You need to clean each time you change grits or compounds.