Urethane clear over enamel base?
Urethane clear over enamel base?
I have a couple of friends painting cars and trucks with a base coat made up of enamel with a flattener and hardner added. 2 to 3 coats,wet sanded. Then they apply 2 or 3 coats of urethane clear, then wet sand and buff. Is this a common approach? I am thinking of using the saame approach on my 64 F100 SWB.
Not really a common approach. Enamel is a single stage paint, meaning you paint the enamel, wet sand and buff and your done. I have seen clear put over it before though. It adds another layer of protection. Usually you use base coat or laquer, then clear over it. It all depends on the look you are going for, and what kind of paint finish you are looking at (straight color, metallic, pearl)
Not only that, but if you sand metallic or pearl single stage, you'll ruin it. The metallics are very near the top and sanding ruins them instantly. Much easier, cheaper and better to just go with basecoat/clearcoat than to try to cook up your own brew of paint combos.
Thanks for the input. Not sure yet what I will do but base/clear seems to be best combo for protection for daily driver although I am retired and the truck is in the shop when not driven. Thanks again.
Not sure if I DISAGREE, or just didn't understand the replies here.
First off, it is common to use clear over Enamel (meaning Acrylic Enamel). In your OP, you said they where using a flattening agent though - that's WEIRD. No need for that...maybe they think they need to just becuase the BASE, in a Base/Clear job, goes on Flat. But that doesn't mean you need to flatten Enamel if you are gonna clear it.
Secondly, clearing over Enamel gives more protection, more sheen, more depth and everything is good.
And lastly, as I just finished writing (in a post about thinning paints) above, the best way to paint SOLID-COLORED enamels is to progressively ADD clear to the color in the final coats until it's all clear for the final coat. Read the previous post for the details. But don't do this with METALLIC'S because then you're changing the amount of metal in each coat - no good. If it's a METALLIC color, spray 3 coats oif clear over your 3 coats of color. Then you can sand your clear to perfection (if desired).
As always, though internet advice is nice, get your advice from the AUTOBODY SUPPLY house you buy your paint from. They are the real, local experts. Painters even call them WHILE they are painting when something goes wrong!
Good luck - post pics!
First off, it is common to use clear over Enamel (meaning Acrylic Enamel). In your OP, you said they where using a flattening agent though - that's WEIRD. No need for that...maybe they think they need to just becuase the BASE, in a Base/Clear job, goes on Flat. But that doesn't mean you need to flatten Enamel if you are gonna clear it.
Secondly, clearing over Enamel gives more protection, more sheen, more depth and everything is good.
And lastly, as I just finished writing (in a post about thinning paints) above, the best way to paint SOLID-COLORED enamels is to progressively ADD clear to the color in the final coats until it's all clear for the final coat. Read the previous post for the details. But don't do this with METALLIC'S because then you're changing the amount of metal in each coat - no good. If it's a METALLIC color, spray 3 coats oif clear over your 3 coats of color. Then you can sand your clear to perfection (if desired).
As always, though internet advice is nice, get your advice from the AUTOBODY SUPPLY house you buy your paint from. They are the real, local experts. Painters even call them WHILE they are painting when something goes wrong!
Good luck - post pics!
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