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ok ok, im going to order it now....MINI spool, they, shoudl be fine. ok, where is the best place...and cheapest place to get a mini spool for my set up...oh ya, iys like an hour job...right, take the axles out, unbolt the pumpkin from the I beam, and tear into it, then put it all back together??
www.ult4wdp.com
I did some checkin, and they seem to have some good prices. Prices for mini-spools start at like 33 bucks, which is one heck of a deal IMO.
You should just have to remove the axleshafts, and then unbolt the carrier. If you go with the mini spool, just follow the directions. Same goes with the standard spool. Install, replace, put the axles back in, button it up, and away you go.
cool, hope this thing dont break, i have been wheeling a on some new trails lately, and i almost rolled, dented, and got my truck stuck on the last run, at least i can help to avoid the last on that list. so, youre saying a2 hours max, i can have those axles out in 5 min, both side, ive been having wheel bearn problems right now, its i have it down to an art. haha
sorry, dude, didnt mean to steal the attnetion........now you are going to have to just slide the axles straight out, good pull and they come right out, knuckles and all, i know this much.
Idiomaticman
Last edited by Idiomaticman; Jan 22, 2004 at 02:44 AM.
meh, thats cool, its on blocks right now anyway...im not going anywhere until i reaplace a few things...175000miles does that to a rig......
thanks TGTNH
yeaup, can do....i do have one more question though,
i was thinking about how a diff works, lets say for instance that for every turn of the intput shaft you get one turn out of each wheel, and each wheel turn take you 1 ft forward.. now, you make a right turn where the input shaft turns 10 times, the left, the outside wheel, goes....say, 6ft, and the inside wheel therfore has to go 4ft. because a diff uses 100% of the input, it just redistributes it. i know this for a fact. now if i spool it, and only lock one wheel, that wheel is still going to want to go the same distance as the back wheels, no matter what, so why is it important to unlock one wheel when turning, is it just a friction thing, less wheels to fight??.....cause thats all i can think of.
Basically, when you unlock a hub, you disengage the front axle. You could leave it locked in, but the bad noises and lurching will tell you not to do it again. I have a freind, who we race with, who welded his spiders, and when he tested it upon launch, the welds shattered. So he then went with a Detroit(he has a bit more cash than i do).
well, yes, but no matter what, that one wheel is going to want to go just as far as the rear wheel, and unless you are going perfectly straight, that doesnt work well, you actually arent disengaging the axle, now that everything is welded, all your doing is letting that one wheel do what it wants, but the locked wheel is still going to want to turn the same as the rear wheel. but hey, if it works, im all over that, i just wanna be safe, and not break anything..hah
I understand that, lol. Just unlock both hubs to make sure. As long as the axles aren't engaged(I'm sure someone else can explain the way they engage/disengage), they act as a ride along, not doing anything, just like an open. Idiomaticman, do you have hotmail? Because you respond pretty quick, kinda like me. Oh well, keep from breakin things, at last the expensive parts. later
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