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It's pretty simple to tell if you have a bad rod bearing, and if you have an oil pressure gauge. When you rev an engine with a bad rod bearing, the oil pressure goes down instead of up, because of centrifugal force causing the oil to sling out through the large bearing clearance. Many 302 engines develop a piston slap, but they usually run for a long time afterwards. The late 70's and early 80's were the worst for this. I couldn't tell you how many of these engines I've pulled the pan on, only to find piston skirt peices.
You have confirmed what everyone wanting my money has said. Replace the motor! Replace ther Rod bearing and it is just a banaid. Well, she is now parked and I will be ordering a motor. Any recomendations on a replacement brand or supplier? Grooms Jeggs.... I am thinking long block to make it easy on a first timer. Easy yeah right
now what about when the motor is cold and there is no knock and when it get warmed up she gets louder . also no niose when on or off the gas but the constant rpm and any rpm after she hot?
Cold Start 3-4 Distict Knocks. Assuming the journals/bearing fills up with oil. Knock stops.
Warm or cold free rev to 1800 knock constanly.
Warm or cold hard acceleration knocking at 2500>
Once warmed up and idleing I can hear the knock very faint.
It is not injectors or lifters. I can hear all three.
you might not believe this but i had a 86 merc with a 302 and it had a knock when it first started and would go away as it got warm. but 1 thing I found out was the oil filter i was using did not have a 1 way check valve made in it I guess that is what you call it but I went to better filter and it had 1 and it kept the oil up in the motor and it made a big difference
Find the cylinder in question and pull the spark plug wire if the knock goes away its more than likely the rod bearing. If not its probaly piston slap. In my opion mains sound completly different not as solid of a knock.
"you might not believe this but i had a 86 merc with a 302 and it had a knock when it first started and would go away as it got warm. but 1 thing I found out was the oil filter i was using did not have a 1 way check valve made in it I guess that is what you call it but I went to better filter and it had 1 and it kept the oil up in the motor and it made a big difference"
Yep, that's the piece of crap Fram. I wonder how many engines with bad main bearings are because of the "orange can of death."
NEVER EVER EVER EVER use a Fram filter!!!!!! They empty out overnight, and while your oil pump is refilling it, the bearings are starving for oil.
am pulling the motor the heads areoff saturday night and block is comeing out this morning . will tell you what i found. so far i see there are deep four brow pistons ,i had the do0e heads with big valves.
well found the problem rod# 2 bearing all the way down to the steel backing and grooved looking at the rest of the bearing copper still there but defennatly tired its a 10-10 crank and rod and 30 over on the piston. but the funny thing ot even 40 weight oil sould shut the bearing up oh well new bearing friday and oil pump and call it good thanks everyone
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