need help how do i set the boost up
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New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: GA
need help how do i set the boost up
i am only getting 5 psi of boost
turbo checks out good ...
i have no muf big pipes
fresh air ducted in from a 4 in scat tube and scoop
banks down pipe
40 000 on a new motor and turbo
any ideas
thanks
turbo checks out good ...
i have no muf big pipes
fresh air ducted in from a 4 in scat tube and scoop
banks down pipe
40 000 on a new motor and turbo
any ideas
thanks
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 715
Likes: 11
From: Erie, PA
When you tell me you have a pyrometer (exhaust probe) installed, I will tell you how to turn the fuel up.
If you turn the fuel up too much, you will melt the tops of your pistons. These are not 350 chevy that are cheap to rebuild. If you burn the top end out, your screwed.
Do you have any black smoke when wide open? If so, you have an air leak in your ducting.
If you turn the fuel up too much, you will melt the tops of your pistons. These are not 350 chevy that are cheap to rebuild. If you burn the top end out, your screwed.
Do you have any black smoke when wide open? If so, you have an air leak in your ducting.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Were you driving pulling up a grade when you only have 5 pounds of boost?
Or sitting still?
Turbo will not show good boost pressure till it is under a load.
What do you have at 2800 RPM going up a hill with your right foot on the floor?
Or sitting still?
Turbo will not show good boost pressure till it is under a load.
What do you have at 2800 RPM going up a hill with your right foot on the floor?
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11
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From: GA
At Idle the boost is about 1 psi at 2800 with wot the boost is 5 psi that is going up a slight grade. I have not pulled my trailer with the boost gauge installed yet i have also hooked up my egt gauage ...getting 900 at wot....
also i would never have a 350....here is our race car web site www.darkhorseracing.net...our race car trailer full loaded is 14250 lbs
thanks
bg
also i would never have a 350....here is our race car web site www.darkhorseracing.net...our race car trailer full loaded is 14250 lbs
thanks
bg
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,897
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From: Northeastern Pa - USA
Boost is a byproduct of fuel burn BUT it may also be controlled by a wastegated turbo system. Let us know what you have under the hood (turbo system) and we can help you out more efficiently.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11
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From: GA
More info
My EGT is a TiT insteand of ToT .The prob is in front of the turbo the temps are at wot and 3200 rpm 1100 DEG f
300 at idle
Also I put a new Thottle cable in ...When the go peddle is to the floor you can more the plate at the pump another 1/2 inch...there is not any adjustment on the cable...
bg
My EGT is a TiT insteand of ToT .The prob is in front of the turbo the temps are at wot and 3200 rpm 1100 DEG f
300 at idle
Also I put a new Thottle cable in ...When the go peddle is to the floor you can more the plate at the pump another 1/2 inch...there is not any adjustment on the cable...
bg
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Is the turbo new with the new motor or old transfered to the new motor?
If the turbo was overheated before the pyrometer was installed it is possibly damaged. If you pull a grade and get it to 1250 degrees for any length of time the fins on the exhaust side of the turbo can get hot enough to start flattening out. This means it is not spinning fast enough to give you max boost after that. Pistons are in danger of melting at about the same time.
As far as the throttle cable, is anything bent like the bracket by the pump or the throttle pedal it's self? Is the bracket in the right bolt hole in the manifold? There is a spring on the arm on the injection pump that keeps pressure off the throttle cable once the arm is against the wide open stop. Are you not getting the lever to the stop? Or is it against the stop but will still move farther? Once it is at the stop, the rest does nothing.
If the turbo was overheated before the pyrometer was installed it is possibly damaged. If you pull a grade and get it to 1250 degrees for any length of time the fins on the exhaust side of the turbo can get hot enough to start flattening out. This means it is not spinning fast enough to give you max boost after that. Pistons are in danger of melting at about the same time.
As far as the throttle cable, is anything bent like the bracket by the pump or the throttle pedal it's self? Is the bracket in the right bolt hole in the manifold? There is a spring on the arm on the injection pump that keeps pressure off the throttle cable once the arm is against the wide open stop. Are you not getting the lever to the stop? Or is it against the stop but will still move farther? Once it is at the stop, the rest does nothing.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
You could probably see the difference if you had a new one laying beside it. If it is real bad there may be no question.
I know that I have not turned up the fuel on mine yet, and when I am towing I have to watch the pyrometer closely on any kind of hard pull.
Here in WV we have a lot of hills at or over 10% and it is easy to put the pyrometer where I do not want it to be. I normally am towing about 12,000 pounds.
On a hard pull I can get about 14 pounds till I have to start backing out of the throttle to get the heat under control. Guess it is time for an aftercooler.
I know that I have not turned up the fuel on mine yet, and when I am towing I have to watch the pyrometer closely on any kind of hard pull.
Here in WV we have a lot of hills at or over 10% and it is easy to put the pyrometer where I do not want it to be. I normally am towing about 12,000 pounds.
On a hard pull I can get about 14 pounds till I have to start backing out of the throttle to get the heat under control. Guess it is time for an aftercooler.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,438
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From: Monroe, WA
If that's a 94 factory turbo (non power stroke), you need to turn up the threaded wastegate rod to make it hold more boost. Take it off the turbo to do this. They are staked from the factory and sometimes don't want to turn (I've had one break on me). First unscrew the rod (count threads or measure it first), and run a tap in the hole to clean up the staked treads. Then add a nut to it so you can lock it. Try tightening it around 4 turns further than it was, you should aim for 8-10 lbs. of boost.
Has the pump been turned up at all?
Has the pump been turned up at all?