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need help how do i set the boost up

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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 08:15 PM
  #16  
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Dave Sponaugle
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OK, sorry I took so long to find this article I saw a while back.
He did an excellent job of describing the procedure, and I do not have to type two pages.

http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/I...%20article.htm

Word to the wise, a little goes a long way when turning the allen screw. One flat is probably more than plenty.

Second words to the wise....WATCH THE PYROMETER

Pre turbo temps
1050 OK
1100 pushing it
1150 pushing it to hard
1200 never
1250 it is dead
 
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Old Feb 16, 2004 | 05:15 PM
  #17  
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From: GA
thank you for the info

are those egt numbers peak or continuous

bg
 
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Old Feb 16, 2004 | 10:28 PM
  #18  
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If I am almost over the hill at 1100 I will keep on going but start backing out of it a little.
Before 1150 I am downshifting.
At 1050 I will stay at that all day if I have to.

If where I am going is at the top of said hill, it will set there and idle for several minutes before I turn it off so everything can cool down some.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2004 | 07:52 AM
  #19  
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From: GA
dave

thanks
 
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Old Feb 17, 2004 | 05:38 PM
  #20  
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Great thread. Right along the line of the question I have.
I was getting to know my newly aquired 94 F350 IDI this weekend and noticed the vacuum line to the waste gate control module was disconnected and capped off.
What will that do to the performance? Is it a bad thing? Is it good?
It appears it is the stock turbo. Oil press sensor on the main bearing housing. Garrett stamped on the cold air side.
EGT sensor on the exhaust side. AutoMeter pyro and boost gauges.

I have seen the boost go to 10 and temps up to 850-900 climbing a mountain at 70mph, 2000 rpm.
Never really pushed it yet, no load with trailer,etc. But I plan on it.

Any ideas why the previous owner would have the module disconnected?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2004 | 06:32 PM
  #21  
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From: GA
the vac line was disconected to give you more boost..we have done the same ...it stops the waste gate from opening.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2004 | 07:21 PM
  #22  
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So basically the boost is now controlled by my right foot, correct?

This could be a good thing or a bad thing.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2004 | 11:15 PM
  #23  
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What kind of boost can you get with the hose plugged?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2004 | 11:56 PM
  #24  
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Dad I Want,
900 after turbo is about as hot as you want the turbo to get it.

The temp I gave above are pre turbo temps, take 200 off all of those for after turbo pyrometer temps.

The turbo boost is always controlled bu your right foot.

Probably the reason for blocking that line off was to get 10 pounds of boost with the stock exhaust on the truck which is very restrictive.

If you had a three inch high flow exhaust all the way to the turbo you would probably want it hooked up again to control high end boost from getting to high.

Mine is all stock setup from Dealers Diesel 7.3 turbo upgrade, three inch turbo downpipe, no muffler, and 3" dual stacks. 13# boost with the wastegate hooked up.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 12:30 PM
  #25  
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Thanks Dave!
I'm definately getting an education!

Do you think the ATS turbo housing upgrade is a good idea?
I have plans for the 3" downpipe and all the way out.
Is it worth changing out the housing to get the 3" connection off the turbo?
Any opinion would be appreciated.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 08:47 PM
  #26  
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Yes it is....the stock Ford housing is to small for the turbo to work right.

I have a 2" body lift on my truck to make room for the down pipe. I understand that it is a bear putting the 3" pipe on due to a seam on the cab that has to be bent over to make room for it.
That is why Ford used the small pipe that was flattened out for clearance.

I seam to remember that the outlet adapter unbolts from the Ford turbo and that is all you need to change. My ATS is all one piece.

Use a straight through or no muffler when you do the exhaust and it will come alive.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 08:56 PM
  #27  
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That's what I'll do.
I have the Ford manual showing how to remove the Turbo housing. Doesn't look too tough.
I'm sure the downpipe will be a challege. I looked at what you described and there really doesn't appear to be much room at all. OUCH!

I'm sure the gains will be worth the pains.

Thanks again!!! YouDaMan!!
 
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Old Feb 20, 2004 | 10:22 PM
  #28  
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Looked at my ATS again today. The outlet has four bolts that let it come off. It would be lots cheaper to get that outlet instead of the whole housing.

Can you run a 2" body lift on your truck?

If you can you will have all the room you need and have nothing to bend or flatten.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2004 | 11:09 PM
  #29  
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It's all stock now.
I don't know of any reason why I couldn't put the 2" body lift in.

Will it mess with the steering column?
That's the one thing I think might be a problem.

Whadaya think?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2004 | 11:19 PM
  #30  
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The only thing it messed with on my 86 was the 4 wheel drive lever. When I raised the cab the front of the bend in it hit the front of the hole through the floor. Had to lenghten the rod from the lever to the transfer case to get it out of 4x4 high and into 2 high.
The steering column has a slip joint that was long enough to work without any mods on it.
The emergency brake cable was just long enough to go two inches. Three and I would have had to work on it as well.

If you have an auto tranny you have to modify the linkage to the tranny so the gears are where they are supposed to be.
 
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