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Glad you are here!!! I Just bought a 1994 xlt 4x4 w/7.3 turbo diesel with 206M miles on it. Besides using it as a 2nd car, It will be outfitted for snow plow and salt spreading. THIS IS MY FIRST DIESEL. I don't even know the right questions to ask. I do not have the manual. Can anyone help and tell me the common sense things that I should be doing. So far I have had it serviced including a new fuel filter and have been puting a fuel additive in it. We had a cold snap with temps in mid teens and besides pluging in the heater, I had to use ether to get it started. Also a little thing - No cup holder. Bench seat with 2 ***** in the center(front of seat) Is this for some kind of consel? Love the truck and don't want to hurt it!!!!!
Thanks for being here
Uncle Jim
If your block heater and glow plugs are working you should not have to use ether to get it started. When using ether be very sparing with it.
First thing to figure out, is it an IDI 7.3 turbo or a Power Stroke?
Right behind the oil filler tube do you have an injection pump with a bunch of fuel lines running to each injector individually?
Will check this out in AM. It doesn't have any decals that say PS, only turbo. When it was cold, it started, ran for 5-8 seconds then stalled. At this point(2 different days), it cranked until the batts. ran down not firing at all. Naturally,with ether, it fired right up and ran fine.
Any suggestions?
Uncle Jim
Watch cranking it to long. The starter will burn up and cost close to 300 for a new one. Sounds like you may have an air leak in the fuel system somewhere. It ran long enough to drain the fuel out of the fuel line from the filter then stalled cause it had not picked up fuel from the tank yet.
The thing is once a diesel starts the only way to stop it is turn of the fuel.
The line from the filter down to the injection pump will hold enough fuel to start and run the motor for a few seconds.
So that is why I think you may have a very small air leak in a fuel line that is letting the fuel drain out of the lines over the course of several hours.
When the motor is warm it has not had time to drain out enough to air lock the system.
The ether is speeding the motor up enough to pick the fuel up and get it to the injection pump so it will run on fuel again and keep running.
The block heater or the glow plugs must be working or it would not start and run for a few seconds without ether.
Problems like this can be a royal PITA because they are so small and so hard to find.
Did you oil the gasket on the fuel filter when you changed it?
I always liked to put about three drops of motor oil on that gasket when I install a new filter so it seats without tearing. That also makes it easier to get it tight by hand.
power stroke or regular ol' binder glow plug means "very hot ignition source" and ether means "needs no excuse to blow up" and that won't work in the compression area of your motor for very long- without taking something designed to work without ether to the scrap bin.
Yes, We did oil the gasket of the filter prior to putting it on. Also noticed that on occasion it will idle real rough and at other times be smooth as silk. Also it will serge and pick up 4-5 mph on 5th. Do you think that any of this is related? Dave By warm I mean the outside temp. If I do not run the truck for 2 days but it's 45 degrees outside, it starts. That is why I was wondering about the air leak
Thanks
Jim
Jim you need to go through the glo plug system to see if its working properly.Test all the GPs.How long is your wait to start light staying on?If it only staying on for a few seconds(4-6 secs)you have some bad GPs.If your block heater is working you will hear it,just put your head down in the pass wheel well and you will hear what sounds like a sizzeling sound,if you dont hear it its not working and if thats the case start at the plug and work your way bact to the heater looking for signs of the cord comming in contact with something(ie:manifolds,etc),also look to see if the cord is pluged into the heater,thats in the block behind the starter.Bear in mind if the block heater is working you will still need the GPs working for good starting results.
New Day New whatever. pnose, put ford antifreeze additive in today. wait to start light is on for 10 sec. Do not hear anything by passagers front wheel when block heater is on. little note, the ford parts man said that he moonlites as a diesel mach and without looking at the truck he said that the rough idle(intermittent) was caused by a bad auto tranny. Told him that it was a 5 speed manual then he said probaly a bad 2 peice flywheel that he would replace w/an aftermarket 1 piece for only about $2-2500. This should bring some comments!!!
What a ride for you. I just replaced clutch without buying new flywheel for 375 dollars installed. Get 7.3 solid flywheel and new clutch for under 1500 easy. Probably under a grand with some shopping, and this includes install.
I was misunderstanding warm as in run recently.
I can not figure it starts and then stalls. Once you have enough heat to get it to fire it should continue to do so. I gotta think on this one for a while.
It does sound as if your block heater is not working, I would do a continuity test between the two flat blades on the plug. I did have a 600 watt heater once that did not make much noise at all. It did not do a very good job when it was real cold either. The 1000 or 1200 watt ones make a lot of noise.
Thanks to all of you that jumped in on this.Not only have you given me help, some of the things that I found out will probably save my new toy. Thanks again for being here
Uncle Jim