HeavyAssault, How does the Superchip tuner compare to the Hypertech tuner? More power? etc.

 

I have benn using the Superchip tuner for about 3 days now. There seems to be better throttle response at 1/3+ pedal. I had to figure out how to disable the fuel system to get it programmed. I didn't use the tranny stuff and of course I used the speed limiter. I have noticed that while using the cruise, when going uphill there is some light pinging. I'm sure this is normal while under strain and feeding more fuel to the engine. Any comments on the pinging??

I'm going to play around with it some and see what I can discover. I'm happy so far with the 1715. I ran the code scanner and nothing came up, so things are okay I guess. I have put 4 tanks of gas through it since I got home. With the cold I'm running 11mpg mixed driving and 12 hwy.
I've had the 1715 for one tank used on the hwy, ran 302 miles per my GPS and put 25.1 gals in "LOW FUEL " light on with the needle on "E". I was surprised about the gals, I figured I was going to add 26-27. So far so good, when it warms up it's gonna be nice driving.

 

Probaly bad gas on the ping deal,i have the trans pressure set on high and raised my shift points with no ill effects, it will help save your trans by increasing pressure-less slippage between shifts.

 

The ping is too much timing advance; the knock sensor will hear this and turn timing back unless the chip has the advance set too far. As V10KLZZ71S said it could have been bad gas, remember octane rating is the fuels ability to resist pre-detonation or ping. If you notice ping again call superchips and ask them what to do. Ping as said is pre-detonation, what happens is the fuel explodes before the spark plug lights off so it diesels. Is it bad? Not if you don't mind a hole in your piston, OK that is worst-case but
1 you lose power because the pressure builds before TDC and wants to push the piston the other direction.
2 increase wear on lower bearings same reason
3 lower engine life, the higher PSI hurts the wrist pins, rings and forces the pistons into the cylinder wall.

I think, again just a guess so call Superchip. I think that you can turn the timing back by hand if you can locate the crank sensor. What this will do is let you use all the chip stuff but knock the timing back just enough, not to stock just enough to make it work. Your other option is octane booster but IMO that is a band-aid, what happens if on a trip you are hot and high and under load and you forgot to put some in?
Last if you are pinging cold you might have other problems your timing advance system might not be up to par. Lean will ping also, so when it gets cold you get more Oxygen with each air charge so that means you need to add more fuel. If the O2 sensor or Mas air sensor (measures incoming air temp to calculate density) are bad or dirty you will have problems. Both need to be cleaned at times. Also the injectors could be dirty and not passing enough fuel and last you fuel rail PSI might be to low. What that does is the CPU reads all data and then sends power to the injector to turn on for X amount of time, it knows how much fuel will flow in that time under ideal conditions but if the fuel rail PSI is low, less fuel will pass. An old trick we used was to increase the rail PSI to trick the system, to poor to buy better injectors but it reduced injector life.

Bottom line when you make performance mods you can do a lot of harm, the factory settings are conservative and that is what the programmers are taking advantage of, what they don't say is that every system must be working perfectly or engine damage can occur. Remember the OBD system is made to allow variances that would be no problem for the stock system but if the MAF is dirty and the O2 sensor is dirty (not enough to matter to stock and within limits) then you have dirty injectors and low fuel PSI again all just a little no flag will be sent but the accumulative effect could ruin you motor.

V10KLZZ71S I think your next step, along with the chip, with the mods you have is to have your injectors flown and matched, or buy a matched set. You would be surprised how much difference your motor does when every cylinder is getting the exact same fuel. My 4.6 Mustang (’94) had almost 20% difference in some injectors, I bought a matched set and while not gaining any HP the torque curve smoothed out and I dropped a little over a tenth in the quarter and drivability was way better.

 

Actually, to pick nits, "pinging" is the spark plug igniting the fuel/air mix, and the resulting pressure peaking too early, just before TDC. Lots of reasons for that.

Dieseling is a whole other matter, if you are dieseling, you'll throw a rod, spin a bearing, break a piston, etc. Dieseling in a gas motor is not a "ping" it's more of a "knock" or "bang", or "holy crap! what was that?"

Light pinging can cause piston/ring/cylinder damage over time, so take care of it - if you hear it a little bit, there are probably times you DON'T hear it, and it's still happening, just on a smaller scale.

Light-throttle pinging can be the EGR not doing it's job, as in clogged, dirty, not moving, not getting enough vacuum, etc. What thermostat are you using? I think my V10 came with a 185, so there's not much lower you can go, but if you have a higher one in it, switch to a lower temp. My '96 t-bird 4.6L with a Superchips pinged a litle bit at light throttle, 180 degree thermostat worked (originally 195).

 

I actually want dual a/f monitors in the exhaust,then possibily a larger mass air sensor w/larger injs.

 

krewat well put ping is caused by ignition, dieseling by compression so it is not picking nits you are correct. That is why timming is so critical to cure it sorry for misstating, seams I was typing faster than the brain. Throw that away, the rest stands though.

V10KLZZ1S with the flex fuel injectors you should be able to get quiet a bit of power, anyone know how much the stocker will flow? Still order a matched set when you go larger.

 

Detonation is usually silent and is caused by the combustion process end-gases being ignited prematurely and causing a second flame front and pressure spike as the piston is already moving down. This is the real engine killer!

 

L-Lucas, I believe what you have described as detonation is the Idea behind a MSD ignition system?

 

If you've ever seen the spray pattern of OE injectors and a set of aftermarket injectors, say from Bosch, you'd be amazed at the difference. Most OE injectors, even when new and performing perfectly, spray in a thin stream, imagine water coming out of a hose. But aftermarket injectors, which should be as you said, matched for best performance, have a much, much better spray pattern, looking like your water hose after you've screwed on the spray gun attachment. And even using the same flow per hour will result in much better combustion than with the OE injectors. Hot Rod magazine just did an article on this, the difference is amazing.

 

KenL, Can you tell me what the stock injector flow rate is and what a good upgrade injector would be?