fuel pumps quit ???
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fuel pumps quit ???
i am having a problem like the on discribed above.
comming home from work, stoped at a red light
all of a sudden i smelled a wire burning---did not see any smoke or fire--truck died--had to push it to the side of the road
would not restart--turns over but no fuel
cant here the fuel pumps kick in when you turn the key on(normal app 2-3 secs)
looked at the inertia switch it was poped out
pushed it back in ---still would'nt start
sprayed some starting fluid down the air intake
tryed to fire --tells me its not a spark problem
think i traced the burnt smell to the fuse box (inside cab)---all fuses good--could not see any melted wires from a quick inspecteion---
any clues from there would be helpful
"down in texas"
92 f150
4.9 six
281,000 miles thanks
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 497
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From: Houston TX
The fuse block may have toasted a bit on the back side. Something is pulling too much current. Maybe the pump, but not sure...I'd probably start from scratch and check the whole fuel electrical system, including relays, etc. MK
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 79
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
You never mentioned if you had dual tanks or not. Unfortunately, checking the electrical side of the fuel delivery system is likely your only option. Since you smelled the wiring burning, I'd check from the fuse block back. If you do find a toasted wire in the dash, I wouldn't stop there. Something pulling amps caused it to burn and it possibly could be as far back as the fuel pump itself. Even if you have dual tanks, one of them could have gone fubar and developed a short. Tracing electrical problems sucks, but I don't see any other choice for this situation.
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thanks for the input
been working like a dog, finding it hard to get the time to work on the ole truck
did stop and get an inertia switch (14 bucks) in hopes it would be something simple
nada-----will have time to work on it sunday
it does have duel tanks
was wondering is there a web site with wiring diagrams for the ford trucks?
might be helpful in my quest .
thanks to all great FORD page
treblehook aka HERB
been working like a dog, finding it hard to get the time to work on the ole truck
did stop and get an inertia switch (14 bucks) in hopes it would be something simple
nada-----will have time to work on it sunday
it does have duel tanks
was wondering is there a web site with wiring diagrams for the ford trucks?
might be helpful in my quest .
thanks to all great FORD page
treblehook aka HERB
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 29
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From: Syracuse, NY
I had a similar experience about a year ago on my Beast. It turned out to be a corroded & fraying wire going into the socket that holds my fuel relay. I fixed that with some solder, then about a month later the same thing happened. This time it was a fuel relay failure. All that intermittent switching due to the fraying wire wore the relay out. Replaced that, and those repairs have held up ever since. (knock on wood)
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thanks again for the replys
did inspection of wires still could not find any thing burnt--in the cab up by the light switch(most of dash disassembled) is where you can smell the odor
of the burnt wire----front/rear tank switch right there but still no visible burn also can smell the switch -no burnt smell
when i pull the f.p. relay out (one closest to fender well) with key in the on pos. --when you put it back in you can here it click
will ck out what polishwonder sugested
i am good at plugs--alts--water pumps--etc
but trobleshooting elect system-- man--
just not my cup of tea
poor boy has to try to fix it himself first--
when i have exhausted all i can do
i guess i will have to take it to the shop
the thing is this has been such a good truck(92 ext cab 4.9 5 speed 281,000 miles)
never had to put it in the shop
dont know a trust worthy mec
oh well !!! keep ya'll informed
thanks every bit helps
did inspection of wires still could not find any thing burnt--in the cab up by the light switch(most of dash disassembled) is where you can smell the odor
of the burnt wire----front/rear tank switch right there but still no visible burn also can smell the switch -no burnt smell
when i pull the f.p. relay out (one closest to fender well) with key in the on pos. --when you put it back in you can here it click
will ck out what polishwonder sugested
i am good at plugs--alts--water pumps--etc
but trobleshooting elect system-- man--
just not my cup of tea
poor boy has to try to fix it himself first--
when i have exhausted all i can do
i guess i will have to take it to the shop
the thing is this has been such a good truck(92 ext cab 4.9 5 speed 281,000 miles)
never had to put it in the shop
dont know a trust worthy mec
oh well !!! keep ya'll informed
thanks every bit helps
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2001
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There is a fuel pump relay under the hood next to the air cleaner.There is also a fuel pump test port on the EEC-IV plug that you ground and cause the pump(s) run. Check a manual to insure which slot it is. You can get cd manuals on Ebay for your truck these do have the wiring diagrams in them and it sounds like you may need one. Good Luck.
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update----1-18-04
did the manual overide on the pumps with the
dlc connector--pumps work--switch works (duel tanks) replaced fuel pump realy and inertia switch
still no start where to go next ???????
did the manual overide on the pumps with the
dlc connector--pumps work--switch works (duel tanks) replaced fuel pump realy and inertia switch
still no start where to go next ???????
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sorry took so much time to get back
finally found the problem
the eec iv was smoked.
so my question next would be what made it smoke?
also where do you get a replacement eec-iv.
and how much? herb in magnolia, tx
finally found the problem
the eec iv was smoked.
so my question next would be what made it smoke?
also where do you get a replacement eec-iv.
and how much? herb in magnolia, tx
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,587
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From: Virginia Beach
Sometimes control boards burn up, from over heating, to just faulty components. When I opened mine up after it went, the components seemed to be pretty cheap looking(especially the resistor that burned). Try Advance or Autozone for replacements, Probly around $150 for a replacement.
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thanks for the reply
went to junk (salvage) yard and the guy sold me a comp for a 4.9--6 but the numbers were different.
the original # is f2tf-12a650-apb.
the one he sold me and said that it was interchangeable
is f4tf- 12a650-apa
installed it and the truck starts but real rough
wonder if i need to get my money back? and find one with the original #.
also bought a dura last starter from auto zone
when i start the truck it sounds like the starter gear does not disingage ---anyone ever had this problem?
went to junk (salvage) yard and the guy sold me a comp for a 4.9--6 but the numbers were different.
the original # is f2tf-12a650-apb.
the one he sold me and said that it was interchangeable
is f4tf- 12a650-apa
installed it and the truck starts but real rough
wonder if i need to get my money back? and find one with the original #.
also bought a dura last starter from auto zone
when i start the truck it sounds like the starter gear does not disingage ---anyone ever had this problem?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,587
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From: Virginia Beach
Personaly, a computer is one of the few things I would buy from a scrap yard, unless I really needed a core part for the exchange. How long has it ran with this new computer? Are you sure the connector was clean? It could also be programed differently. I'd get a reconditioned unit with a warranty that was the right part number just for peace of mind.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Hamilton Ontario
Numbers gotta match
I have the pleasure of assembling F 150`s. In my experience , we would not do an electrical test if we had the wrong EEC in the truck. It would be changed , and then started. The EEC`s are different : (we use like 12 different ones)- some 8 cylinders have 4 or 5 different EEC`s depending on their options. I am not familiar with the numbers of your EEC , ours are 5 characters long.
1/2 ton fun is right , the EEC is probably programmed differently. I would exchange this unit , or get a refund and find one that matches yours.
As for your starter problem , I bought a reman. for my `88 4.9l (300) , and same thing. Turned out the brass bushing the bendix slides on was damaged. Took it back , put 2nd new one on , no probs, drove for 2 more years then sold the truck
Still got the `92 though!
Good luck ,
Sty
1/2 ton fun is right , the EEC is probably programmed differently. I would exchange this unit , or get a refund and find one that matches yours.
As for your starter problem , I bought a reman. for my `88 4.9l (300) , and same thing. Turned out the brass bushing the bendix slides on was damaged. Took it back , put 2nd new one on , no probs, drove for 2 more years then sold the truck
Still got the `92 though!
Good luck ,
Sty
Last edited by sty; Mar 8, 2004 at 07:47 PM.
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