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O.K. I replaced my original 2.9 with a 2.9 from an 89 I have an 88.
It fires right up and drives great until it runs for about an hour or about 50 miles.It doen't get hot but I get a light around 25 miles.
After that when I enter an inclined drive it will die and won't start for about 10-15 min. The 1st time this happened I checked fuel pressure and got zero. But after I waited a day ( broke down) it fired right up and I took it home. I'd appriciate any advise before I get into my fuel delivery system
I dont know if the pump was runing or not. Why does it look like I have 2 pumps? Theres the 1 in the tank and it looks like I have one on the frame right below the drivers door. I'm going to take a closer look today when I change my filter. If that doesnt work I'll be dropping the tank when yhe weather clears up. By the way how do you get your pic to show up next to your screenname?
I think they still had a low pressure pump in the tank and a high pressure pump on the frame rail in 1988, 1989 had only one pump. I would test both pumps to make sure they are running.
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Before going to the hassle of dropping the tank, hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel rail and see what the pressure is doing, especially when it won't start. In addition, before assuming the problem lies with the fuel pumps make sure the EEC relay and fuel pump relay are closing, and that the fuel pump inertia switch isn't going open. (All easier to access than the in tank fuel pump.
ok if I get a buddy to just turn the key to on are both pumps supposed to make a buzzing noise because 1 in the tank does but not the 1 on the frame. Sorry I dont own very many testing tools but I've almost mastered shade tree testing
They should run for a few seconds and then shut off if the engine is not started, it sounds like you may have found your problem. Start by checking for power to the HP pump, you can just use a test light or meter.
One little tidbit that may help you in diagnosing this. One of the terminals (short end of the connector, I think) on the self test connector grounds the fuel pump relay causing the pumps to run continuous with the key on. That way you don't have to have the engine running or be constantly turning the key on/off/on/off... to get power to the pumps. As indicated, make sure it isn't a wiring issue before laying down the money on a new pump. A wiring diagram would be most helpful.
And don't be afraid to put a little money into testing tools. DVOM's aren't expensive (can get a basic unit for <$10), I think Harbor Freight sells fuel pressure gauges for <$20. A Haynes/Chiltons will run you <$20. Public libraries don't cost anything and they often have professional edition manuals in the reference section. Shade tree mechanicing is fun, and it just gets more fun as you get more/better tools.
That connector should have a t/lg wire, don't let the pumps run for a long time, they could overheat. If you need a wiring diagram let me know, I have some scanned.
Awiring diagram would be great , As for the tools I bought a meter and a fuel pressure gauge today. I'll be cheking my pumps tomorrow . Although I still would like the diagrams I believe the problem is in the fuel tank pump. Today it died on an incline after running about 20 mins. It acts like a float problem
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