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Rear locking hubs??

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Old Dec 30, 2003 | 08:23 PM
  #1  
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Rear locking hubs??

Can locking hubs be installed in the 9" in the rear end. Or do you have to get a axle that already has hubs built into them. I really don't understand that much about hubs so any advice would be helpful. I have a few four-wheeling ides brewing for my Bronco.
Thanks
Greg
 
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Old Dec 30, 2003 | 09:11 PM
  #2  
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Hey man, this is NOT intended to offend you in anyway.

Rear Axles DO NOT USE HUBS!!

Now the front axle on your truck does use locking hubs!!

So if you re-phrase your question, we might be able to help you!!
 
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Old Dec 30, 2003 | 09:25 PM
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easy bro, lay off the coffe.

Now Tree, may I ask, why do you want locking hubs in the rear?
 
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Old Dec 30, 2003 | 11:23 PM
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All right, now just take it easy guys all I want to know is if its possible?
If I had locking hubs in the rear then theoretically I could install a full spool in the back. Locking the hubs would then lock the axle unlocking would unlock the axle. basically like an Ox Locker but about half the price.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 01:23 AM
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You would need to install a TTB in the rear with a second steering column and wheel.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2004 | 09:17 AM
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DO IT 4 wheel steering from rock ram makes it all possible but need to reverse gearing
 
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Old Jan 1, 2004 | 12:58 PM
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I'm confused. Are you thinking of a full-float conversion?? If there is such a thing for Fords, I suppose you could bolt some manual hub caps on there.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2004 | 01:24 PM
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Originally posted by The Tree
All right, now just take it easy guys all I want to know is if its possible?
If I had locking hubs in the rear then theoretically I could install a full spool in the back. Locking the hubs would then lock the axle unlocking would unlock the axle. basically like an Ox Locker but about half the price.
It is possible anything is possible it just has a price tag. Price it out I bet the ox locker is cheaper.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2004 | 05:43 PM
  #9  
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if you started with an older Full floater Nascar 9" it should be easy to have the axles ends cut off and splined. you could use chevy style bolt-on 3/4 ton locking hubs if you ovaled out the bolt holes in the hub to match the drum bolt pattern.
Now the REAL problem with this set up is you need an outer bearing to support the axle when the hubs are unlocked. the hubs support the axle when they are locked.


but it will cost $$$$$$$$$$

Air lockers are cheaper.
 

Last edited by oldhalftons; Jan 1, 2004 at 05:49 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 10:34 AM
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There is a kit like you are talking about for Jeeps. It converts the rear axles into full floaters and includes hubs. The main motivation for this kit is for Towing. By unlocking the rear hubs, you can tow the jeep behind a motorhome without turning all of the axles and driveline. Good Luck.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 05:00 PM
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Warn used to make a full-floater kit for the 9", with either a locking hub or a drive flange option avaliable (still is for the early 28 spline Broncs, up to '77?). If by chance you would happen across one of these kits for the '78-'79 in someone's old stock....PLEASE ask if they have a second kit and would hold it for me! Pursured this after pricing aftermarket axles, tappered bearings and retainers. Came up empty on a kit, did not check on any custom work as in drag rears which use this type of set-up in a very narrow rear with 12-15" long axles, oh, and 40 spline also! Figured if the price was right, and I think it would have been based on the early Bronc and Jeep kits, this would have made for a rightous set-up for the rear! Most of these kits are advertised as full-float (think D60/70 style rear) change over's. Gain that (the axle doesn't carry ANY weight other than itself), lose the "C" clips (on the Jeeps) and you can run some really, really large tires and even if an axle does snap the wheel/axle doesn't go off in it's own direction and you can usually drive home with it broke. Guess the 9" is just to tough in it's "stock" form, and maybe not to many abuse the axles with weight, tire mass and usual needed go pedal of off-roading! Still, I'm careful with 35's, no truss & 460.....just price a pair of 60's (and the weight), buy me lots of axles & bearings for that. Full-floating 9" would be the best of both strength and "light" weight, even trussed, in a moderately heavy vehical that isn't used as a rock buggy or high speed desert pre-runner. Just my opin, take it for what it's worth to Ya. Good luck in your quest for info on this matter!! And Tree, please feel free to share anything interesting you may come across! Chuck
 
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Old Feb 7, 2004 | 12:51 AM
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Tree,

I know this is an old post, but I came across this Warn conversion kit for the 9" rear. I think this is what Chuck P was talking about.

Go here and scroll to the bottom.

http://www.completeoffroad.com/produ...84_ford_9.html
 
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 11:29 AM
  #13  
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I have been looking for a similar kit for a Ford 7.5. Does anyone know if it exists? The reason is that a 4x4 Ranger with automatic and push-button tranfer case cannot be towed behind a motor home. Electric transfer cases have no neutral and an AOD transmission has no rear oil pump. The transfer case itself does.

Jim
 
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 12:21 PM
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Warn only has the Ford 9" listed on there site and some Heep stuff.

http://www.warn.com/truck/axles/full_float_axles.shtml
 
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