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Got a new, exact replacement switch from RockAuto, Standard Motor Products p/n DS2430, for $25. Probably not good enough for the purist, but this truck isn't going to Pebble Beach any time soon.
Found a 3-port valve that will work, I imagine, but doesn't have the mating connector for the Ford wiring. I should be able to manufacture a jumper that will do the job. But I'm not sure yet that the valve is bad. The solenoid is working, but there could be an internal plumbing problem.
In the truck, the switch is labelled "Front" and "Rear". In most parts books and sites, the "Front" tank is the "Mid" tank. In the owner's manual, they call the rear tank the "main" tank, but the way the switch is wired, it feeds the Front/Mid/Aux tank when activated, and the Rear/Main when relaxed. The Chilton wiring manual for the '82 is consistent with my truck. But my '82 Service Manual says "The electrically actuated fuel selector valve is spring loaded to feed the main tank ... when activated...", which isn't consistent. I haven't found the official '82 wiring manual yet.
Last edited by PhoebeAnn; Oct 25, 2017 at 02:13 PM.
Reason: added 3rd paragraph
Found a 3-port valve that will work, I imagine, but doesn't have the mating connector for the Ford wiring. I should be able to manufacture a jumper that will do the job.
What valve did you get? I've looked at this universal fit 3-port valve, FV-1 from Standard. $35 on Amazon. It would only need a minor wiring change on the truck. You'd remove the factory connector and put a ring terminal on the hot wire. The ground would come through the mount, so the second wire from the harness would not be needed, or it could be connected to one of the mounting bolts with another ring terminal for a belt&suspenders approach:
As far as which port is open when the solenoid is energized, it shouldn't really matter. You could just swap the two input lines on the valve to match the switch operation.
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