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Hi guys, I have a 1986 f-150 with the 5.8 HO engine with a mechanical fuel pump. I'm having problems with my fuel tank selector switch. I have read and looked in the search section and cannot find my problem. I took the selector switch out and found it was a 6 pin switch. I have looked everywhere for a NOS switch to no avail. So I got my can of CRC MAF cleaner out and sprayed the hell out of the inside of it and blew it out and then did it again. Hooked it up to the plug-in harness and checked the red 20 amp fuse, it was good so I pulled the plug-in off of the fuel selector valve and checked the two contacts on the wire for power, I have power to the valve for the front tank, but no power getting to the valve for the rear tank. Everything I found for a selector switch was a 5 pin and was not shaped the same for the harness plug-in to fit . When I switch tanks, the fuel gauge works ok for each tank.
Does anyone know a supplier for this 6 pin switch? Already checked Standard Motor parts and they have a five pin only along with a bunch of other suppliers.
Any help would be appreciated.
Bud in Winslow AZ
Hi guys, I have a 1986 F150 with the 5.8 HO engine with a mechanical fuel pump. I'm having problems with my fuel tank selector switch. I took the selector switch out and found it was a 6 pin switch.
Are you sure the truck is a 1986? There is only1 switch listed for 1986 F150/350 5.8L (351W) and it has 5 terminals.
Look on the switch for the ID number and post what it is. Could be D5TB-9A050-AA or E3TB-9A050-AA
I bought the truck new the vehicle ID 1FTEX15H7GK864886.The switch has no ID number on it, just Motorcraft and INDAK pat pending, so probably got a switch that was made for a very short time and replaced with the 5 pin switch, Murphys Law in effect here!
I bought the truck new the vehicle ID 1FTEX15H7GK864886. The switch has no ID number on it, just Motorcraft and INDAK pat pending.
G = 1986
(sigh) Ford! I should of 'turned the page' of the parts catalog. The last entry on the page I was looking at ends with 1987/89 F150/350, but the next page shows this:
E6TZ-9A050-C .. Fuel Tank Selector Switch-6 terminals / Marked: E6TB-9A050-AB / Obsolete ~ Last MSRP: $52.04 - Dealer net cost: $23.42.
Applications: 1986 F150/350 / Note: There's another for 1983/86 F250/350 diesel & 7.5L & 1985 F150/350.
There's only one of these switches available NOS (New Old Stock) .. but the source (Artesia Ford Sales in NM) will only sell to FoMoCo dealers.
So, the only way you can get it, is to have a local FoMoCo dealer buy it from them, then sell it to you.
And...be aware that the fuel tank selector valves used in these trucks were CRAP from day one!
Well, after looking again at the switch, I DID find a part # on the bracket just above the mounting screw hole and it is E6TB-9A050-AB. Knowing now that I won't possibly find that switch, what's to do now? My idiots at the parts desk at my local Ford dealership can't even look up their own names let alone request this part # from Artisia Ford in NM. I will give them a try tho and hope the part is still in their stock. My switch has lasted for 30 years and hopefully the next one only lasts for 10 years would make my day. I would like to thank all of you with your input on this subject and just to let you know I appreciate all the knowledge that's out there in this forum. THANK YOU!!!!
Bud in Winslow AZ (not standin' on the corner today)
Well, after looking again at the switch, I DID find a ID engineering # on the bracket just above the mounting screw hole and it is E6TB-9A050-AB= Ford part number:E6TZ-9A050-C
Knowing now that I won't possibly find that switch, what's to do now? See post #7.
I doubt this is the switch from the Ford dealer in NM
Do you know your tank switching valve works? I know of only two types used in our trucks; The simple one with 3 hoses and one wire and the more complex one with 6 hoses and lots of wires(not sure how many). The more complex valve is a the Pollack type that was mentioned.
The simple valve switches the sending units with the dash switch, and the dash switch sends a signal down one single wire that tells the valve on the frame to select one tank(hose)or the other tank(other hose). The third hose leads to the fuel pump.
The more complex valve has a little motor inside it. The dash switch selects the pumps if you have one in each tank, and it also sends a signal to the little motor in the Pollack valve. They run the fuel gauge and sending unit wires to this valve, and let the valve electrically switch the sending units with contacts inside the valve. And while the little motor is doing this it's also mechanically moving the valving for the fuel lines, which includes fuel return lines.
If you did not need all those features on the Pollack valve, I don't see why you could not use part of it and not use the rest of the valve.
OK, here's what I found today. I took my 3/8" hose connected to the tank valve to the fuel pump and blew in it until pressure built up in what ever tank the valve was connected to. Put my finger over the hose to keep pressure and had my wife take each gas cap off to see which one had the pressure in it. the rear tank had the pressure in it. So what if I just disconnect the wire going to the tank valve and only use the rear tank. I'm not going to disconnect the lines going to the valve and get a face full of gas so I'll leave what gas there is in the front tank( 1/8 full) and just use the rear tank. Maybe just put some tape over the wire end so as not cause a short if it wiggles around.
My wife called me a blowhard after she seen how much pressure came out of the tank! Not bad for an old man who's gonna be 71 in Sept.
I am currently working on my old 63 1/2 Galaxie 500 XL that I built a '66 428 for. It's black on black and really looks good when cleaned up. 4 speed, 427 cast iron headers, Holley 3310 dbl pumper and a wicked cam. Rebuilt the entire rear end with Richmond 3.70 gears and a Tru trac. New hvy duty driveline new springs and new gas shocks before Greg Donahue retired.
That keeps me out of the rockin chair. Bud
That's what I did when my valve went out. I only use the front tank now. I did get rid of the valve though. I used vise grips to pinch the lines off when I was cutting and splicing, and used bolts to plug the lines off that I didn't use.
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