351W Ticking Under Load
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351W Ticking Under Load
I have a 93 F250 with 133k on a 351W that has what sounds like valve noise. It only seems to be noticeable when I am accelerating moderately and the RPMs are down. If I put my foot into it hard enough to make the engine downshift, the noise seems to go away.
The engine feels strong, and there is no noticeable decline in performance or any symptom other than the sound. I changed the oil (Delo 15W40) and filter (Motorcraft) today thinking perhaps the 5W20 that the previous owner had put in was too thin, but it doesn't seem to have had any effect.
Any ideas on this?
The engine feels strong, and there is no noticeable decline in performance or any symptom other than the sound. I changed the oil (Delo 15W40) and filter (Motorcraft) today thinking perhaps the 5W20 that the previous owner had put in was too thin, but it doesn't seem to have had any effect.
Any ideas on this?
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Joined: Aug 2003
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It sounds more like a exhaust leak. Possible EGR tube (tube from right manifold to EGR valve), or a cracked exhaust manifold. Look for any black powder near these items. Have some one get in truck with there foot on brake in gear and lightly apply the throttle and listen near these items while standing off to the side.
I would not recommend 5w20 in a 351. It is mainly for emmissions and cold start ups on the "modular" engines with their very close clearences and small oil passages.
10w30 in most conditions should be just fine, maybe 5w30 in 10 degree or below tempertures.
I would not recommend 5w20 in a 351. It is mainly for emmissions and cold start ups on the "modular" engines with their very close clearences and small oil passages.
10w30 in most conditions should be just fine, maybe 5w30 in 10 degree or below tempertures.
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While adding Sea Foam via the brake booster line today, I noticed some moisture leaking from the joint where the exhaust manifold bolts to the exhaust pipe. I suspect this is the likely source of my leak? There are no signs of cracks, missing bolts, etc. with regard to the manifold.
How difficult is it to fix this problem? It appears the joint is held together by nothing more than a couple of bolts. Is there a gasket at this joint that may be bad? Any advice on how to address it?
How difficult is it to fix this problem? It appears the joint is held together by nothing more than a couple of bolts. Is there a gasket at this joint that may be bad? Any advice on how to address it?
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Cumming, GA
Yeah I bet it's pre-iginition. Mine will do that if the engine lugs, say I'm going up a hill and I'm pushing down on the throttle and it doesnt downshift, then I will hear that. Put in some mid-grade or run your tanks to half and then put in mid-grade. The rocket fuel should help get rid of the knock
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I think maybe I didn't make my question clear. I'm fairly sure my only problem is a noise coming from an exhaust leak. I now believe that the source of the exhaust leak is the joint between the manifold and the pipe that it connects to (is this the Y pipe?)
So, my question is, how do I fix this leak? I'm assuming the first step will be to break the bolts loose that hold this connection together. Is there a gasket that may have gone bad? If there is no gasket, how do I get this to seal? Is there something like RTV made to withstand the kinds of temperatures and vapors from an exhaust system?
So, my question is, how do I fix this leak? I'm assuming the first step will be to break the bolts loose that hold this connection together. Is there a gasket that may have gone bad? If there is no gasket, how do I get this to seal? Is there something like RTV made to withstand the kinds of temperatures and vapors from an exhaust system?
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I've decided to begin spraying the studs with PB Blaster for the next few days. Any advice in the meantime is greatly appreciated.
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Posting Guru
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From: THUNDER BAY
I had this problem befor ( the exhaust problem) the studs rotted off and the pipe wasnt sealing to the manifold bring it to the muffler shop, In an hours time and mabe 70,80 bucks your problem will be fixed ,exhaust work can suck ,even more so when its a stud good luck.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
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I agree with Waljon. The exhaust bolts can easily strip or break. Muffler shops deal with such things daily. There is no reason you can't do it yourself, but for the time versus money, and the frustration involved, this is something I'd have no problem with letting the pro's do.
Ask for a price up front. I recently had a muffler and tail pipe installed for about $115. Took all of 15 minutes. After I had it done, I found out I could of had duals, with new pipes front to back for around $200. If I had known that before, I would of had the duals installed.
Ask for a price up front. I recently had a muffler and tail pipe installed for about $115. Took all of 15 minutes. After I had it done, I found out I could of had duals, with new pipes front to back for around $200. If I had known that before, I would of had the duals installed.
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