I recently purchased a F350 4x4 V-10 dually with electronic shift on fly 4x4 system. When I read the owners manual I noticed it said:

"automatic hub locks can be manually overidden by rotating the hub lock control from AUTO to LOCK".

I don't understand why would I want to do this.

 

In case the hubs,for several different reasons,don't lock automatically,you can lock them manually and have 4wd.
It's,IMO,a very good feature to not be at the mercy of "convenience" technology if it fails.

 

>In case the hubs,for several different reasons,don't lock
>automatically,



Which seems to happen quite often.

 

I've got a little different take, though it is definately a good "safety feature".

My suggestion would be this, the option to manually lock the hubs means that every time you switch in and out of 4wd the hubs are not engaging and disengaging. The engage/disengage function is where the most wear and potential damage can occur within the hub. (It's also the most likely part of the SOTF 4wd system to fail when you need it.)

So, let's say your in a situation where you know you're going to be shifting in and out of 4wd regularly. You simply get out of the truck and manually lock the hubs. They now stay locked and only the transfer case engages and disengages when you flip the 4wd switch. This saves wear and tear on the hubs and gives you quicker response to the engagement of 4wd because you don't have to wait or move for the hubs to lock.

I think of the manual override as more of a "convenience" or maybe more accurately a "preventative maintenance or longetivity" feature.

Waxy

 

We use the manual lock in the winter in Alberta when off roading or ice fishing because, when you drive in deep snow and the hubs get hot, then stop the vehicle and let it sit the hubs will sometimes freeze, now remember when you stopped it went to two wheel drive. Now try to drive away several hours latter and the truck is frozen in two wheel drive, so you go nowhere. Its a good idea in below zero weather when off roading, use the manual locking hubs.

 

ANOTHER GOOD REASON FOR THE LOCK IS IF YOU ARE ALL READY IN IT UP TO YOUR NECK IT DOSENT TAKE THAT LITTLE BIT OF TIRE ROLL TO HELP ENGAUGE YOUR HUBS. SAVES YOU FROM SINKING THAT LITTLE EXTRA BIT.

 

BAD ADVICE, I think, Waxy. The manual feature should only be used when the auto ones aren't kicking in (frozen, etc.) Front hubs (these or full manual)are always the weakest link, as you know, but that's GOOD, since they are cheaper than transfer case, etc. If you have them locked in manually and then shift the ESOF while moving, and if your front & rear wheel speeds aren't close enough, the "clash" or worse, what "breaks", will now occur in your transfer case, instead the hub.

 

Don't know for sure but I was always under the impression that if your planning on serious four wheeln or plowing and counting on them to stay locked you should manually lock them in. My Bronco had auto locks and they would fail and unlock or slip or what ever they'ed do if I was pushing alot of snow or was under alot of stress. I changed them to manual and no trouble since Maybe they were just broke
Rick

 

>BAD ADVICE, I think, Waxy. The manual feature should only
>be used when the auto ones aren't kicking in (frozen, etc.)
>Front hubs (these or full manual)are always the weakest
>link, as you know, but that's GOOD, since they are cheaper
>than transfer case, etc. If you have them locked in
>manually and then shift the ESOF while moving, and if your
>front & rear wheel speeds aren't close enough, the "clash"
>or worse, what "breaks", will now occur in your transfer
>case, instead the hub.


If what you are saying is true, than evey 4x4 would have to come to a complete stop before shifting into 4hi, and if that was true, they wouldn't make ESOF.
Auto hubs are just a convienence designed to make "4x4's" more appealing to the masses.
Doesn't matter if you overide the auto feature or not, but if you do, at least you know that they will be there when you need them.

 

It clearly states in the manual that you don't want to shift your ESOF into 4HI when your back wheels are turning at a different speed than your front (or some such wording - after all, there is no "clutch" to absorb the shock). The same goes for manual hubs when locked in using the floor shifter. Stopping is only ONE way to ensure that your wheels are turning at the same speed. So is engaging it only when wheel speed is close enough that the clash doesn't break things (like NOT when you are spinning your back wheels while stuck). If you have your hubs locked in as you approach a mud hole, fine, lock it in. Once you have the pedal to the metal in the mud hole, don't do it.

 

Also, even if everything is locked in safely, while moving or stopped, auto or manual, front hubs have always been the weak link. That's better than it being your axle, or u-joint, or transfer case, all of which create worse problems.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Nov-02 AT 10:43 PM (EST)]>It clearly states in the manual that you don't want to shift
>your ESOF into 4HI when your back wheels are turning at a
>different speed than your front (or some such wording -
>after all, there is no "clutch" to absorb the shock).


If you rears are spining faster than your fronts, you can press that button all you want and it won't engage into 4hi, for that matter either will a manual T case.
Aytime you shift into 4hi you have to throttle off in order for it to sync in.
Kind of a built in saftey for people who don't know better.



>Also, even if everything is locked in safely, while moving or >stopped, auto or manual, front hubs have always been the weak link. >That's better than it being your axle, or u-joint, or transfer case, >all of which create worse problems.

This is the case with manual or auto, just the auto are more prone to failure.

 

Another problem I have seen described is the auto locking hubs staying locked even after you shift on the fly out of 4 hi. Supposedly the only symptom is a drop in mpg over time. Apparently you think you are out of 4X4 because nothing is showing on the dash and the sotf **** is turned to 4X2, but the hubs are stuck in the locked position with the arrow still pointed to auto.

If anyone here has had this happen to their truck, or knows anyone who has, maybe you can detail the issue here on FTE for us.

Thanks

 

I understand that the new dodge trucks don't even a hub disconnect.. just the transfer case

 

>BAD ADVICE, I think, Waxy. The manual feature should only
>be used when the auto ones aren't kicking in (frozen, etc.)
>Front hubs (these or full manual)are always the weakest
>link, as you know, but that's GOOD, since they are cheaper
>than transfer case, etc. If you have them locked in
>manually and then shift the ESOF while moving, and if your
>front & rear wheel speeds aren't close enough, the "clash"
>or worse, what "breaks", will now occur in your transfer
>case, instead the hub.

Well, I just got back to this thread this morning. Thanks to YETI I don't really even need to reply..

However, BeeGeesRule, I think before you criticize others you should do your homework. ;-)

I'd like you to explain to me how you engage your 4X4? Do you always wait till you're stopped, aka stuck, before you get out of the truck and lock the hubs? I don't understand the difference between manually locking your ESOF hubs and normal manual hubs. I think you're point is IRRELEVENT. The only thing you've done by manually locking the hubs is removed the potential damage to the hubs during their engagement, ALL OTHER ACTIONS OF THE 4X4 ENGAGEMENT PROCESS ARE EXACTLY THE SAME BETWEEN THE MANUAL AND ESOF SYSTEMS. What's the difference between pulling the lever and turning the switch? All 4X4 systems engage at the transfer case, many without the option to unlock the front hubs, that's why there are safety features as described above built in.

Waxy