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start at the pass.. rear wheel open the bleeder and let it flow out
make sure you keep the fluid full in the master cylinder dont pump the breaks at all! let the break fluid flow out watch for air bubbles if you dont see any air bubbles and the fluid is flowing good close the bleeder and do the driver side rear wheel then the front
just make sure you keep the master cylinder full
one more thing the fluid will come out slow and it my take a min or two for you to see any fluid when you firts open the bleeder
thats how i do mine and i never had any problems
Last edited by topless88gt50; Dec 17, 2003 at 05:41 AM.
I second that procedure. Gravity works. There's no need for pumping or divising some vacuum-powered contraption. The resevoir in the master cylinder is the highest point in the breaking system. If the cover is off, fluid will flow down and out of an open bleeder valve, taking air with it. It just takes patience.
Also, my 2 cents: I have never fixed a loss of brake pressure just by bleeding. Low pressure that develops over a period of time has always been an indicator of a problem, like a a bad wheel cylinder, etc. in the cars and trucks I have owned.
If pedal drops to floor at a stop it could be you master cylinder. (leaks internally). A good way to tell is,while at a stop, keep truck from rolling with light pressure on pedal. It will drop to floor slowly. As it drops put hard pressure on it. It will problably stop sinking. If this happens it is the master cylinder. By the way if it was anything else bad there would be a leak of brake fluid externally. The master cylinder is the only brake component that will leak pressure internally. Everything else leaks outside and on the floor.
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