modifying a fuel tank
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Hillsboro, OR
modifying a fuel tank
-- BEWARE: Working on a fuel tank is VERY dangerous. --
-- Tank must be boiled out and even then its still dangerous --
( any closed vessel and an open flame are dangerous )
Ok, understanding the above ground rules. Does anyone have experience with modifiying fuel tanks? I want to mount a flange which will accept my Ford in-tank fuel pump.
When I was a teenager, I saw a guy doing fuel tank repairs using a unelectric soldering iron (about 1inch square copper) which was heated with a torch (away from the tank of course). Using brass(?) tape he patched the tanks and sealed it all up with massive amount of solder. Has anyone done this? Aren't stock tanks soldered together?
Thanks,
-- Tank must be boiled out and even then its still dangerous --
( any closed vessel and an open flame are dangerous )
Ok, understanding the above ground rules. Does anyone have experience with modifiying fuel tanks? I want to mount a flange which will accept my Ford in-tank fuel pump.
When I was a teenager, I saw a guy doing fuel tank repairs using a unelectric soldering iron (about 1inch square copper) which was heated with a torch (away from the tank of course). Using brass(?) tape he patched the tanks and sealed it all up with massive amount of solder. Has anyone done this? Aren't stock tanks soldered together?
Thanks,
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
Probably the best way to go about this would be to use fuel-proof rtv and pop rivets. Most tanks now are either plastic or steel. A steel tank can be brazed, but it must be done carefully to avoid blowing a hole through the tank. There isn't much that can be done with a plastic tank.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 788
Likes: 1
From: Hendersonville, TN
It would probably be safer/smarter/cheaper just to get a salvage yard tank, but here's what I used to do to repair tanks. I worked at a rental place where we had a fleet of welders, and they commonly got the filler necks knocked off. I would remove/drain the tank and flush several times with water and/or a mixture of water and muriatic acid(if they were rusty). I would then prop them up securely where the point of soldering was at the very top and fill again with water where the entire tank was full within a quarter inch or less of where I was working, then solder with a regular oxy/acetylene torch, using silver-bearing solder and liquid flux. It worked great. The main point is that gasoline VAPORS are what explode and are present even on an empty tank. The water fill left no area in the tank that could be occupied by the vapors and therefore none to blow up. Even if you do this, do so with EXTREME caution and fully understand what you are doing.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
half ton,I added a rear sump to my tank.you just have to make sure there's no fuel in it.I pulled mine out to do it and cleaned it with water.I had no problem's Here's some pic's of it.
http://www.superford.org/?vID=4037
It's in (fuel system) heading.
http://www.superford.org/?vID=4037
It's in (fuel system) heading.
Last edited by freak98; Dec 15, 2003 at 05:43 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
PSDailydriver
1999 - 2016 Super Duty
14
Dec 15, 2003 06:47 AM
AZ4x4f150
General NON-Automotive Conversation
7
Jun 19, 2002 05:21 PM
