I need to resolder the rad brackets onto the tanks. Anyone know which solder to use?

 

Scrape the area clean on both parts until bright, Clean with denatured alcohol. Apply tinning flux (Oatay H-20, the kind with solder in it) and use Oatay Silver solder.

Use a propane torch and make sure the propane bottle is new so it leaves less residue.

That's how I did mine. Worked great.

J!

 

off topic I was looking at your xmember pics and would like to duplicate this setup for my truck I was wondering if you had dimensions and what you used for the round stock as well could you please tell me about your engine placement dimensions any help would be appreciated thanx

 

Who me?

Julie

 

sorry no reg1952

 

Radiator Shops use acid core solder when they use a solder with a core, but mostly they use tinning acid and bar solder. Any solder with 50% lead and 50% tin is what they used originally. Now that leaded solder is not used in plumbing, you find mostly 100% tin solder.

If the bracket broke loose, you just tin both pieces, put them together and heat up the bracket, and flow solder. To tin the pieces you are going to solder, use a red shop rag, run flux on the area, heat the area, flow solder on the area, and wipe it with the rag until the area is covered enough. With both the radiator and the bracket tinned, the solder will flow nicely when they are put together and heated.

Silver solder requires a lot more heat but does not add any strength. Radiator cores and radiator tanks are not put together with silver solder as they are brass and lead solder flows nicely with brass parts.

Regards,

Alanco

 

Thanks. I bought a rad for my 52. The pics I was going by on Spectras web site showed the rad I wanted with the brackets facing the rear of the rad. I ordered it and it came with the brackets on the front.We called Spectra and they said there pic was wrong. I can just resolder the brackets on the opposite sides and it will work perfect.(well it should) The rad I used was Spectra CU511, it fits real nice in the saddle and once I change the brackets it should almost bolt right in. I will post some pic when its in.May not get back to it for awhile, very busy at work with snow tires up here in Ontario.Dont know what its going to be like when they make them mandatory like Quebec did.We are already running out of tires and cant even get rims already and its not even December. yet..

 

thanx for the info

 

Sorry Alanco, I disagree. Lead solders are getting very difficult to findand in some places are now prohibited.

Modern shops (and I'm not talking about that guy down the road who does this as a side, and still sprays his roses with his 1950s Chlorodane) will use either a rosin or acid core Tin/Silver solder on Brass radiators, or Tin/zinc or Tin/Aluminum solders on aluminum radiators. Rarely they will use Tin/Antimony on large industrial applications.

Nornally they will brush the flux rather than use cored solders for tinning purposes and to neutralize the flash oxydation that immediately occures on copper based metals after cleaning. This is because the brushed tinning flux actually has solder in it and will tin the part by itself when heat is applied without tinning as a seperate step.

Lead/silver solder requires more heat, but the more commonly refered to 'Silver solder' (which is used in plumbing now, not "100% tin solder") is an tin/silver alloy that has good tensile strength (above tin lead solder) is less reactive (and more conductive in electrical applications), has good flow characteristics, and is currently being substituted for tin/lead in copper based (which includes brass) applications, beside copper plumbing.

And there is no such thing as 100% tin solder. Solder is by definition an allow that melts at a lower temperature than the original metals composing it. 100% tin is not solder, it's tin.

I have used both Tin/lead and Tin/silver when repairing radiators and surge tanks and although the "silver" solder does require a very slight bit more heat, it's flow characteristics are much cleaner, and there is a slight improvement in tensile strength.

Here are some basic solder descriptions for those interested:

Solder Types

J!

 

And your point would be? Other than point out what radiator shops working on new car radiators might use, a person working on an old brass cored radiator is going to use a tin/lead solder until he is out of it, because that is what it was put together with.

And if someone is merely moving his side mounts, that also is not only what it was soldered with, but it identifies what he can use at home to resolder the bracket.

Many new radiators are not repairable, being that they have non-soldered cores with plastic tanks, and aluminum cores.

Sorry to you too, glad I do not have to wrench on old cars with all new tooling; I have plenty of lead for body work and lead/tin solder for radiators, and yes, I would use DDT if I had some. DDT would save lives in Africa had not environmental liars saw that it was banned.

 

And your point would be? Other than point out what radiator shops working on new car radiators might use, a person working on an old brass cored radiator is going to use a tin/lead solder until he is out of it, because that is what it was put together with.

And if someone is merely moving his side mounts, that also is not only what it was soldered with, but it identifies what he can use at home to resolder the bracket.

Many new radiators are not repairable, being that they have non-soldered cores with plastic tanks, and aluminum cores. In plumbing today, I see that the solders available have some copper, some antimony, and a lot of tin, no lead. If I were to buy new solder for electronic work, I can still buy 60/40 resin core which is 60% Tin and 40% lead. I would not use silver solder because it does not wet well and his has low ductility (bending) as compared to lead solders, or no lead solders with copper and antimony and tin. While the European Union has banned lead solders for electronics, we have not. They also are banning resin core flux favoring a water based flux. Well, we haven't and for other than plumbing, we can still buy lead containing solders. Lead has superior wetting characteristics, and stays liquid longer making it easy when soldering things that might require alignment and movement, once solder is melted......

Sorry to you too, glad I do not have to wrench on old cars with political correctness; I have plenty of lead for body work and lead/tin solder for radiators, and yes, I would use DDT if I had some. DDT would save lives in Africa had not environmental liars seen that it was banned.

 

My point is very simple: I was answering the question asked, and substantiating my answer following your post Alanco.

DDT! Unbelievable!!!!!
Julie

 

What have I done?!

 

Nothing...Don't worry about it.

J!

 

get a grip man be polite alanco not everyone will agree with you