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Ok I have two projects on my list right now. one is replacing a melted out control module and another is taking off the valve cover and trying to fix some lifter tick. if anyone could guide to the right choice and maybe some advice on doing to job. appreciate y'all
DuraSpark ignition modules identified by a colored plastic (grommet) insert located where the wires feed out.
Ignition modules, 74 (black grommet) and 75 (green grommet) are year specific and will not interchange. Ignition modules: 1974 is 1974 ONLY / 1975 is 1975 ONLY. D4AZ-12A199-C 1974 only. Blue module introduced in 1976 was used well into the 1990's. 76 to 79 (blue grommet) are interchangeable.
2 others: One has a redplastic insert, the other has a yellowor brownplastic insert. Redmodule is D7AZ-12A199-Aused in some CA vehicles ONLY. D9AZ-12A199-C(replaced D8AZ-12A199-A). One of these modules isyellow, one is brown.. Since the part number was replaced those can be tricky to find.
These modules were used in 1978/79 302 & 351M/W vehicles sold in high altitudes only. 351W: Passenger Cars & Econolines only. 1U2Z-12A199-AA(replaced D6AZ-12A199-B - D7AZ-12A199-B - D8VZ-12A199-A - D9VZ-12A199-A) .. Ignition Module -blueinsert (Motorcraft DY-893) /
Available from Ford and pretty much most or all big box auto parts stores. Well most carry a cheap chinese repop POS. Good luck finding a OEM FOMOCO one. Myriad 1976/90's FoMoCo vehicles ran them. Alternate sources.
Green Sales in OH.
Collectors Auto Supply in WA.
Haven Ford in KS.
Klimesh Motor Sales in IA.
Bob Allen Ford in KS.
Freese Motor Inc in IA.
Wesley Obsolete Parts in KY.
Dennis Carpenter Ford in NC.
Carefully and ever so slightily pry up the locking tab on the side of the elec conn, (just enough to get the elec connectors to slide apart). Then remove the 4 screws, save the one old ign module as a back up. Just because the goo melted out the back, is not a reason to auto trash it. Reinstall the new one, plug back in.
The module question is covered well. My addition is regarding the valve cover gasket. I find that the firewall side is sometimes prone to leaking, On my recent FE rebuild I cleaned the head and underside of the valve cover really well, then painted aviation adhesive to the head, the valve cover and both sides of the cork gasket. Once carefully placed and bolts applied I can say that this thing does not leak. It'll likely be a bear to get off but once you've done your "tick" inspection, using this method is my suggestion
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