ignition key gets caught, doesn't turn.
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,495
Likes: 340
From: Bakersfield, CA
ignition key gets caught, doesn't turn.
A couple weeks ago when trying to start my truck for the 14th time that day, the key all of the sudden didn't want to turn right, if I fidgeted with it for a sec it might go once but not twice in a row.
Sprayed with lube and didn't help. Used a new spare key I had and it didn't help.
So do I need to replace just the inside lock tumbler or the whole switch assy?
Thank you.
Sprayed with lube and didn't help. Used a new spare key I had and it didn't help.
So do I need to replace just the inside lock tumbler or the whole switch assy?
Thank you.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,495
Likes: 340
From: Bakersfield, CA
Other brian, How hard is it to disassemble?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 968
Likes: 358
From: Newton Illinois
I had that problem with my 55 what I did as a temporary fix was take the lock cylinder out and removed all but 1 of the brass tumblers, that was over a year ago.
It proves the saying that there is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix that works.
First I removed all of the tumblers but discovered that the key would just fall out of the ignition so I put 1 back in
Afte thinking about the fact that anyone who had the slightest clue what they were doing could start my truck in 15 seconds with a couple alligator clip jumpers
I decided I was just leaving it as is. I am just relying on the no exterior door handles, unmarked Hurst shifter T handle, starter push button and clutch pedal for security
It proves the saying that there is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix that works.
First I removed all of the tumblers but discovered that the key would just fall out of the ignition so I put 1 back in
Afte thinking about the fact that anyone who had the slightest clue what they were doing could start my truck in 15 seconds with a couple alligator clip jumpers
I decided I was just leaving it as is. I am just relying on the no exterior door handles, unmarked Hurst shifter T handle, starter push button and clutch pedal for security
Last edited by lshort; Jun 17, 2026 at 07:57 PM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 1,542
Likes: 537
I had that problem with my 55 what I did as a temporary fix was take the lock cylinder out and removed all but 1 of the brass tumblers, that was over a year ago.
It proves the saying that there is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix that works.
First I removed all of the tumblers but discovered that the key would just fall out of the ignition so I put 1 back in
Afte thinking about the fact that anyone who had the slightest clue what they were doing could start my truck in 15 seconds with a couple alligator clip jumpers
I decided I was just leaving it as is. I am just relying on the no exterior door handles, unmarked Hurst shifter T handle, starter push button and clutch pedal for security
It proves the saying that there is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix that works.
First I removed all of the tumblers but discovered that the key would just fall out of the ignition so I put 1 back in
Afte thinking about the fact that anyone who had the slightest clue what they were doing could start my truck in 15 seconds with a couple alligator clip jumpers
I decided I was just leaving it as is. I am just relying on the no exterior door handles, unmarked Hurst shifter T handle, starter push button and clutch pedal for security
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 968
Likes: 358
From: Newton Illinois
Yes, you could have a switch that grounds down the neg side of the coil, if you have a tach that wire is already inside the cab,
any old ford is ridiculously easy to hot wire, Ford conveniently put everything you need on the starter relay and even labeled the terminals.
Take the "I" wire off the solenoid connect it to 12 V+ and touch the "S" terminal with a jumper is all you need
any old ford is ridiculously easy to hot wire, Ford conveniently put everything you need on the starter relay and even labeled the terminals.
Take the "I" wire off the solenoid connect it to 12 V+ and touch the "S" terminal with a jumper is all you need
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