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The leaking freeze plug has slowed down substantially due to machine shops effort of gently tapping it deeper into the block. I've already decided I will replace it properly with another brass one if my latest effort doesn't cure it. The subject freeze plug is very accessible as its the backmost one on the drivers side- I don't believe I'll even need to drop the exhaust to do the repair
I went at it aggressively today with an Amazon freeze plug tool and hopefully I set it back further and stopped the leak entirely- will know more overnight.
Your "hillbilly' fix idea for the intake has merit.
You are correct that I've got nothing to loose and being on the backside of the block I wont care/won't see it if the seam is gooped up with TRS.
Thanks
Tbruz
I'd look at it like this, they put a new freeze plug in and it leaks so putting another one in might not solve the problem. The simplest way around this is put a sealer in the radiator and get a 7 pound radiator cap for it.
I wouldn't pull the motor for a frost plug or a leaking intake. Remove the frost plug and install a new one with some sealant. Then remove the intake and install a new gasket paying special attention to the area where the china wall gasket meets the gasket on the head. I would also find a neoprene gasket not a cork one. You can also use to much sealant allowing the gasket to slip when installing the manifold.
One other thing that I would do first is take a compression test to see if maybe one of the cylinder's is pushing compression into the crank case pressurizing it and pushing out the gasket.
If it's still in running order you can also get it warmer up and remove the filler cap and with the brakes locked and in gear step on the gas and see if oil vapor comes out, if it does pull the motor and take it back to the shop so they can rebuild it again.
Denny
The leaking freeze plug is resolved. I picked up a freeze plug tool and aggressively tapped it/hammered in until the leak slowed then stopped completely- i figured worst case result was a freeze plug replacement.
China wall or VC leak(still unverified as to where exactly) has taken a back seat now as I did perform a compression test with potentially worrisome results.
Cylinders 6,7 and 8 came in at 144-145.
Cylinder 5 came in at 112-115
Pretty sure that's too much variance for a full rebuild with only about 1500 miles.........
VC removal, Leak down and wet compression testing are part of my diagnostic plan for next week.
Tbruz
The leaking freeze plug is resolved. I picked up a freeze plug tool and aggressively tapped it/hammered in until the leak slowed then stopped completely- i figured worst case result was a freeze plug replacement.
China wall or VC leak(still unverified as to where exactly) has taken a back seat now as I did perform a compression test with potentially worrisome results.
Cylinders 6,7 and 8 came in at 144-145.
Cylinder 5 came in at 112-115
Pretty sure that's too much variance for a full rebuild with only about 1500 miles.........
VC removal, Leak down and wet compression testing are part of my diagnostic plan for next week.
Tbruz
Yes 30 lbs low on one cylinder on new motor is not a good thing.
Denny
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