Tips for avoiding broken intake bolts??
Tuned
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 308
Likes: 151
A leprechaun and a priest. Joking aside I had a 5.8 on a stand and despite having the access and heat I still snapped four of them. Luckily I'm junking the heads. Needed heat and a 5' pry bar to pop the distributor too. Nuts.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 158
Likes: 7
From: UP of Michigan
Surprisingly, I got 2 out, 1 broke at the head level, and 1 complete bolt is still in there, soaking the head, for what that’s worth.
Anyone use stainless bolt replacements?
Anyone use stainless bolt replacements?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 410
I bought all new grade 8 from a hardware store. I had one break flush with the head also. Ended up pulling the head taking it to a machine shop.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 2,674
From: Near Salt Lake City
Stainless is not a good idea
Galvanic corrosion occurs between it and aluminum, that will not be a problem with your exhaust manifolds but DON'T
The tensile strength is also lower than a regular steel bolt
Thread galling and seizing is also an issue
I have used them for looks before and regretted it
Galvanic corrosion occurs between it and aluminum, that will not be a problem with your exhaust manifolds but DON'T
The tensile strength is also lower than a regular steel bolt
Thread galling and seizing is also an issue
I have used them for looks before and regretted it
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,861
Likes: 1,042
Yes, but ARP makes stainless hardware that is around a grade 8. Much better than the stuff you find at the hardware store.
I would not use the standard stainless hardware on most parts in a car.
I would not use the standard stainless hardware on most parts in a car.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 2,674
From: Near Salt Lake City
Right
Funny thing
The trans am race boys back in the day disassembled cars and engines and replaced every bolt in them between races
The Z-28 and the Boss 302's anyway, not sure about the Firebirds and the Javelins
I have PSE studs in my Boss block, heads and mains (Pro Stock Engineering) IIRR
Another thing to watch on Youtube is one rod bolt popping off and laying on the floor of SME engines shop (Steve Morris Engines)
One flat out broke just sitting there torqued
Sort of like a car salesman walking past a BMW with a yellow tie on, and the side window shatters
Watch "this is insane... what's with all of these bolt failures???" on You tube put out by steve morris racing
I think some of that high dollar stuff is made in China
Funny thing
The trans am race boys back in the day disassembled cars and engines and replaced every bolt in them between races
The Z-28 and the Boss 302's anyway, not sure about the Firebirds and the Javelins
I have PSE studs in my Boss block, heads and mains (Pro Stock Engineering) IIRR
Another thing to watch on Youtube is one rod bolt popping off and laying on the floor of SME engines shop (Steve Morris Engines)
One flat out broke just sitting there torqued
Sort of like a car salesman walking past a BMW with a yellow tie on, and the side window shatters
Watch "this is insane... what's with all of these bolt failures???" on You tube put out by steve morris racing
I think some of that high dollar stuff is made in China
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,861
Likes: 1,042
When I start putting my parts together on my 408w, I will address the seized bolt issues on the intake/front cover. Not certain why, my goal is never to take this apart in my lifetime. That said, I really would not get anything stainless for the internals of an engine and I don't want to use stainless that will gall.
I did buy ARP stainless studs for the exhaust manifolds. Mostly because I am the one building the headers and I am expecting problems. I know about regular stainless so that was not an option. I do know the Germans [mostly Mercedes because BMW uses exhaust hardware that rusts too easily] use something that does not seize. Heck, the older turbo diesel hardware was 10x the price of a standard bolt. I can only assume is was some type of inconel.
If I was a builder, it would be a real issue if I had rod bolts breaking while building the engine. You might as well close the doors.
I did buy ARP stainless studs for the exhaust manifolds. Mostly because I am the one building the headers and I am expecting problems. I know about regular stainless so that was not an option. I do know the Germans [mostly Mercedes because BMW uses exhaust hardware that rusts too easily] use something that does not seize. Heck, the older turbo diesel hardware was 10x the price of a standard bolt. I can only assume is was some type of inconel.
If I was a builder, it would be a real issue if I had rod bolts breaking while building the engine. You might as well close the doors.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 158
Likes: 7
From: UP of Michigan
I used stainless exhaust manifold studs on my 5.4 2v due to their common problems.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,861
Likes: 1,042
I have not decided what I will be doing, but the time will come when I will make a decision. I will be buying new bolts because I know the core engine bolts were broken and way to ugly to reuse. ARP is not cheap and their stainless is over the top. I debated using their studs for the exhaust manifold, mostly due to costs and my feelings that stainless is really not that good [galling]. After enough research, I think I made the right decision. Time will tell.
I don't think the factory did anything to prepare the new bolts in and torque it down. I think if you used anti seize or other products, the bolts would not seize or not seize anytime soon. Part of the reason that I believe they seize is because of the cheap trashy cast aluminum they used. Combined with the cheap bolt hardware, it's good enough for a few years, but not a few decades. My feelings right now is I will not be using stainless for the intake bolts.
Last edited by 1Butcher; Jun 10, 2026 at 08:48 AM.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 158
Likes: 7
From: UP of Michigan
I’d rather not spend $50 on ARP stainless bolts so I’m leaning toward using original grade bolts covered in antiseize. I use antiseize on almost every single screw, nut and bolt I ever take loose and I feel like this has always been worth the extra step for whomever works on it next. I would use antiseize regardless of the bolt material.
I don’t plan on having the intake off again, but stranger things happen. These intake bolts are really puny as well which I don’t particularly like
I don’t plan on having the intake off again, but stranger things happen. These intake bolts are really puny as well which I don’t particularly like
Last edited by FordGP; Jun 10, 2026 at 09:07 AM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,861
Likes: 1,042
When I put things together, I tend to think it's the last time. Sadly this is not always the case.
When I built my E4OD. I had it out 4 times and every time was suppose to be the last time. I was somewhat expecting that because of all the mismatched parts I used to make in mine. I hated every time I came to the conclusion I had to take it out again. Fortunately, I have a lift in my shop, but still I hate removing anything big.
When I built my E4OD. I had it out 4 times and every time was suppose to be the last time. I was somewhat expecting that because of all the mismatched parts I used to make in mine. I hated every time I came to the conclusion I had to take it out again. Fortunately, I have a lift in my shop, but still I hate removing anything big.
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