96 ford f250 5.8 automatic

Truck started up fine prior to tune up.

Just changed distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires.

Also brand new ignition switch and key lock switch.

Installed after problem started.



After installing tune up parts truck would not start up.

I turn the key to start. It starts to crank but then stops. As I start to let off key pressure it starts to crank again. But struggle to keep cranking. Then starter sound like battery is dying and/or grinding. Then stops.



I can move key not quit to start position and it will crank and almost start before starter slows down.



Put in new ignition switch and key switch. Same thing happened.



Any help is appreciated

 

I would start by verifying plug wires are in correct order. Pull cap off and verify rotor button is spinning. Have you tried using jumper cables to make sure the battery isn’t dead/weak?

Check for codes as well.

 

Sounds like you may have multiple problems. So lets get the engine on Top Dead Center for cylinder #1. Pull #1 plug, Passenger side front plug. Using a screw driver, jump the solenoid bumping the engine while putting a finger in the #1 spark plug hole. When you feel the compression build and blow your finger out of the hole you're on Top Dead Center or close to it. Look at the harmonic balancer to see if the timing marks line up. line them up if they are off a little. You can do this by putting a socket on the bolt in the middle of the harmonic balancer and rotating the crankshaft until they line up.

Now pull the distributor cap and look at the rotor. Is it pointing to #1 plug wire? If not you got the wires installed wrong unless you pulled the distributor out of the truck. The firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 and the distributor turns counterclockwise. There sometimes a #1 on the cap and the rotor should be lined up with that post.

After you make sure the wires are in the proper place the engine should start and run. Now onto your second problem you replaced the ignition switch and the key lock (Tumbler)? Since they rarely go bad or at least go bad at the same time you might not have had to replace them. If your gear selector has any slop in it, that could cause the engine not to crank. The neutral safety switch is mounted on the transmission behind the gear selector lever where the cable attaches. So if there is any slop in the shift lever the switch might not be making it all the way into park. try holding up on the gear shifter, pulling it further into park and give it a try. If the truck turns over, you might have to replace the shift tube bushings, tighten the 2 bolts on the end of the shift tube or replace the inner and outer shift tubes on top of the steering column. However you said the truck quit starting/turning over after you replaced all the parts. So you might just have to adjust the ignition switch on the column. When installing the new ignition switch, don't stick a rod into the switch and it move it to align the switch with the rod on the column. Instead insert the rod on the column into the switch and turn the key to align the mounting holes on the switch to the mounting holes on the column. If I remember correctly the new switches are sent in the run position.

On the battery acting like it's dead because the engine is slow cranking. It could be that the wires are off advancing the timing and the cylinders are firing before they reach Top Dead Center, fighting the rotation the starter is trying to turn the engine.

Hope this helps.

 

Thank you for that in depth response. I took your advice about checking wires and firing order. Turned out 5 and 6 were switched. Also found that the new distributor cap had a stuck pin that supposed to touch rotor and also #6 connector for plugs wires that pulled out. So switched 5 and 6 wires on new distributor cap. Truck starts every time.
although sometimes starter engages a little longer after starting and grinds for a second or two.
so again thank you for your help

 

Happy to hear you got it straightened out.