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Old May 14, 2026 | 09:07 PM
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Acceptable Valve Pitting



G'day all. After some advice. I bought used E7 heads to replace the E6 heads on my 1990 351. This is an intake valve from the used heads. My question is, if lapping cleans up the sealing surface okay, would these be okay to use? Keeping in mind this is a stock, low budget exercise.
 
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Old May 15, 2026 | 05:20 AM
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Lapping won't clean up the sealing surface on that valve. It'll have to be ground. Otherwise it's probably ok to use from what I can see in the picture. Question is, what does the seat look like?
 
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Old May 15, 2026 | 06:20 AM
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That's the seat. Haven't touched it other than home-brew evaporust.
 
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Old May 15, 2026 | 06:22 AM
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I think I know the answer, but.... What do you think about using new valves in these old heads? Will they lap enough to seal?
 
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Old May 15, 2026 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by AussieEffy
I think I know the answer, but.... What do you think about using new valves in these old heads? Will they lap enough to seal?
No. While that seat doesn't look terrible it should be ground to make it concentric but more importantly to make the surface flat and to narrow it back down again for proper sealing. What will be done is hit it with a top angle first, most of the time I use a 30 or a 37 degree to shrink it back down. Then the 45 degree can be ground and it will probably clean right up. Sometimes what you'll see is a small area where there's a pit from corrosion or something getting in there one time or another and you have to top it again.

Lapping doesn't have much to do with a proper valve job it is used mostly just to check width and position of the seat on the face of the valve.
 
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Old May 15, 2026 | 07:17 AM
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Yeah righteo, I appreciate the info mate. It gets to the point where do you pay for this work on a stock head, or pay a bit more for aftermarket aluminium? The age old question... 😁
 
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Old May 15, 2026 | 07:43 AM
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It shouldn't be any big deal to have the seats and valves ground.
 
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Old May 15, 2026 | 09:13 AM
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The way I see it is it's too big of a job to do it half as*. You will be really upset when you have to do it over again because you were too cheap to do it right. I think many of us have been there/done that before.

Both surfaces need to be machined. I tend to lap the valves after machining just so I can see how well the seating surfaces are. I've seen good looking machined surfaces not seal. It does not hurt after all the work is done, is to tip the heads over and pour a light liquid to see if they leak past the valves/seats. When it comes to exhaust valves on higher mileage engines, they get replaced. I've seen exhaust valves not last a second lifetime and will not go down that road again.

I have never had a comeback when I know for a fact the valves are sealing on the bend. Knowing they are sealing is better than thinking they are going to seal.
 
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Old May 15, 2026 | 04:32 PM
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That seat looks rough.
most guys will buy a set of aftermarket aluminum heads for around the same money as having oem castings reworked.
I like and want factory cast iron heads and was wiĺing to pay for what I wanted. I have my reasons.
I could have spent the same money and had aftermarket aluminum.
The hot ticket is to make a peice of clear plastic with a hole for a fitting and apply vacuum to the hole.
This will check valve sealing and as you play with it use can see which ports required less vacuum pumping in order to pull aa vacuum. Depending on your setup you can see how long it holds a vacuum.
by time you find a machine shop and start pricing rebuilding those heads and wait for them to do them..oh and how are the valve guides? Doing a valve grind with marginal guides won't last as long.
sorry but I think the most affordable route is aftermarket, it wasn't always this way.
 
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Old May 15, 2026 | 05:30 PM
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Yeah you guys are right. Best thing in my case would be new ally heads I think. I appreciate the nudge in the right direction!
 
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Old May 16, 2026 | 08:37 AM
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Well, you can't argue that new aluminum head would fix the pitting.
 
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