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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

HELP Engine issues after build!

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Old Apr 22, 2026 | 11:12 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Scndsin
My guess is a cam lobe on an intake valve is been flattened. (no lift=no filling CC=lean burn=glowing manifolds)

If it were me, I'd put a dial gauge on a plate bolted to valve cover holes & check lift before trying to pull cam out.

If you find it, then you can just pull engine rather than fiddle-farting with pulling cam before doing the inevitable pull.

By the way, did you test the seal on these heads before install? (I.E., 120 psi compression)

Sorry dude, it's just looking like a cluster. Maybe you'll get lucky & the cam isn't flattened & the filter not full of metal.
Are the pushrods too long? Different heads so where was the measurement for correct pushrod length?

Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Yep, FMS kit here with a Pro M MAF, bought at Summit. I still rock 19s as basic 302HO with all bolt ons.

Interesting point about the PCM used perhaps beyond its ability to compensate. Even the HO MAF ones reach a limit where they need to be dialed in to work well.

Too many variables, but it happens.
Way back then, I was told by Dunne-Rite Racing that it needed 30# injectors. They were probably too big. That engine ran rich at idle but once you got on the go pedal the back of the Bronco would squat down and the would take off. My guess is that the A9L computer was at the limit of what it could do.
 

Last edited by My4Fordtrucks; Apr 22, 2026 at 03:54 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2026 | 11:19 AM
  #32  
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120-130psi is like 7:1 static, not good.

Sorry OP to derail, there are vids showing how inexpensive heads need work still.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2026 | 01:52 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
Are the pushrods too long? Different heads so where was the measurement for correct pushrod length?

Too many variables, but it happens.
Did you use guide plates, then pushrods would have to be harden, mine had low compression on 2, 4, 7, those pushrods were 7.75, not the 7.58 that I needed, 3 out of 16, who would of thunk.
 

Last edited by torq'ta 5 8; Apr 22, 2026 at 01:53 PM. Reason: left out
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Old Apr 23, 2026 | 08:06 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by gman1377
....and if I run it for too long it will make the headers glow hot....

UPDATE
I was able to put a vacuum gauge on it again and it looks like im getting extremely low vacuum (0-5inhg) at lower rpms which leads me to believe I installed the cam incorrectly. Will update later when I'm able to pull the front cover and take a look.
Your video does not show that you have a cooling system. If you ran your engine with no cooling till the headers glow, you cooked it, best case scenario is blown head gaskets, my opinion.
 

Last edited by wwhite; Apr 24, 2026 at 08:27 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2026 | 08:51 AM
  #35  
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Thin sheet metal tubes will glow before the engine does, but you got a point.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2026 | 08:00 PM
  #36  
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Retarded timing will also cause glowing headers as the combustion is late and can still be burning on the exhaust stroke. On carb break ins I will advance timing after running as far as 40 degrees.
 
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Old May 10, 2026 | 06:11 PM
  #37  
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I was finally able to get the front cover off (breaking my brand new one piece oil pan gasket &#129324 and the cam was correctly timed.

Im thinking I'm going to put a dial indicator up and check the lift on the rockers and check if I'm getting any flat spots on the cam.
 
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Old Today | 07:56 AM
  #38  
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FINALLY GOT IT. And turns out the biggest problem was the one doing all the work...

What happened was when I had initially put the engine together I did not make sure all the lifters were bled down and had free plunger travel so when I would preload them, it would just hold the valve open. MAKE SURE YOUR LIFTERS ACTUALLY COMPRESS WHEN PRELOADING!! I learned the hard way...

Truck runs great now though, still have gotta break in the cam but I'm excited to see what shes made of 😉
 
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