Nice job on the parking brake assy. I dont think I did anything but maybe lube it but I dont think it was as rusty as yours.

Last night before bed I had a crazy thought after going over a post in a Face Book DJ Group.
Someone was doing a full on restore, body off frame, and he replaced the floors front & rear with full panels and they were not something he made
So a Google search for CJ5 floors front & rear and I found what I think would work and worth a try if I was doing the same but at $1000+ for the front and $800+ for the rear it's not going to happen
So I went to bed thinking what can I use to give the floors more strength as they are what pushed up as the body dropped down over the frame?

Well at 2am at the old man get up and pee time, I could not get back to sleep even with sugar plumb fairy's dancing in my head and it hit me
I have what is left of the Ford parts truck cab with roof sheet metal, inner & outer, and a back wall I can use and it will help make the cab smaller come time to scrap it.
I dont think I can do much today as we have to visit the tax people and I still need to get the body off the frame.
May go out in a few to see about raising the body off the frame so I can drive the floors / body mounts back down where they need to be.
Oh the fun

Oh the brake parts should be here today too. I may also start pulling the shoes & wheel cylinders off so I am that more ahead of getting the wheels back on it as I may need to drop it on all 4's to get the body off?
Dave ----

 

That sounds a nice stash of spare sheet metal. I don't see why you couldn't, use a cardboard template to figure out the shape you need, zap it out the donor truck. You are staying busy by the time you get it jacked up today the brakes will be here! I've got some running around to do, I think I will look for whatever extra scrap metal I have that might help you and stop by to drop it off.

Yesterday I went over to Randy's to put a 12v relay on his ignition wire. It was pretty straight-forward and we got it all done and buttoned up nicely. Went for a short test drive, just through his neighborhood, and then when we got back to his house he mentioned the slow start (slow cranking) when hot. Shut the motor off and waited a couple of seconds, hit the starter and the engine just goes "urrrrr" doesn't even spin over 1 full time, just like half a turn and then it loses it's ooomph. He says it's always done that and he figured it was too much timing. I know advanced timing can cause that, so I said let me pull the timing back a tad and we will see. So I moved it probably about 1 degree, no change. I moved it again, about 1 degree, no change. I thought "hmmm I know how to troubleshoot THIS" so I went and got his test light. His has a voltmeter on it, very slick. Connected negative to the ground post on engine block, and positive to starter side of solenoid. Hit the key, it only showed 6.7 volts. Ok moved positive to the battery side of coil, 12.1 volts with key off, hit the starter and it went to 7.0 volts. Moved both leads to positive and negative battery posts, when the starter is engaged, it went to 7.1 volts. I said your battery doesn't have the power to crank the engine over. He got his booster pack out of work truck, connected it, hit the switch and fired right to life. His battery says 12/22 on it, so it's not quite 4 years old. Old enough that "maybe" it's weak, or maybe the alternator isn't fully charging it. So took his battery pack off, battery now shows 12.6 volts. Started the engine, no change in voltage. So I said either alternator not putting out what it needs to, or voltage regulator is not telling the alternator it needs more. Since the voltage regulator is new and the alternator looks very old, he figured he will take it off and bring to O'Reilly to test it. Only thing he doesn't know if it's an 84 alternator that goes with the engine, or a 67 alternator that goes with the car. They both both pretty much the same externally. And I think even the connectors on the back are the same. So I figure whichever it is, the O'Reilly's person can find a number on it and order a new one that matches.

 

First thank you for the metal. I like that thicker flat sheet and going to try and use that for the floors at least up front and use the cab metal as it is thinner else where.

You did a good job on the trouble shooting but instead of kicking the timing back, and now need to re set with timing light, you could just pull the coil wire from the cap and gone to ground or remove power to the distributor.
As long as spart is not getting to the plug to "kick it back" you should be good for testing.
When you said timing was not it I was thinking "voltage drop test". If done right it will tell you what part of the full circuit is bad. Could be the cable from solenoid to starer and everything else good.
There is a nice post in the "Hot To" in the 80-86 truck area and when someone has a slow crank we point them to it.
Funny 1 of the first thing in the post is "fully charged battery" LOL

On the ALT. to see if the regulator or ALT is bad you can put 12 volts, or in this case lower volts, to the F (field) wire at the regulator and if the wire from the regulator to the ALT and ALT is good the ALT should put out everything it has and you can hear it wine as it does. If it does not put out you may want to go 12 volt right to the back of the ALT as the wire could be bad.
Also not knowing who did the wiring the field & stator wires could be swapped and it will not charge. Going 12 volts to the ALT is the best but can be hard to get to.
Putting 12 volts to ALT and it puts out it is good and you got either a bad regulator or wiring.
If the F & S wires are swapped it will not hurt the ALT as I did that on my pickup as I could not see the wire colors and it used a different plug so I made jumper wires, been good 6+ years now.

I got the fenders undone from the body on the DJ. Was looking it over for missed body mounts / bolts and found 2 more hiding but dont think they were doing much as the floor was rotted away but I undid them anyway.
I was able to raise the right side up off the frame but I need to raise the rear and I would like a little more space between the body and frame so I will work on that.
Today I want to get the brakes swapped to all new parts and maybe even bleed the system, have to see how the day goes but the hard parts will be swapped by days end.
Making another hot tea and heading out to get r done

Tony dropped off the tarp for the trailer cover a little after you left. Maybe at the meeting we can ask people to help put it over the frame Sunday, Saturday there are shows / cruises so cant see help showing up.
Dave ----

 

That is a good point about pulling the coil wire, then the timing is not affected at all and you can see what affect the ignition is having on cranking. I actually wrote up a voltage drop crank test and share it in the FB groups anytime I come across someone struggling with that a "won't crank" problem.

You can troubleshoot this with a voltmeter (takes 2 people, one in the car ready to hit the key when told to, and one under the hood with voltmeter).

Voltmeter on battery posts - Hit the switch
*If voltage drops below 10 the battery is too weak to start the car.
*If voltage stays above 11, move to the next point.

Voltmeter with positive on solenoid, negative on battery post. Hit the switch
*If voltage drops low, you have a cable or connector problem between positive terminal and solenoid.
*If voltage stays above 11, move to the next point.

Voltmeter with positive on solenoid, negative on engine block. Hit the switch
*If voltage drops low, you have a bad negative ground cable or connector.
*If voltage stays above 11, move to the next point.

Voltmeter with positive on the starter cable side of solenoid, neg on eng block. Hit the switch
*If voltage drops low, you have a bad solenoid
*If voltage stays above 11, move to the next point.

Voltmeter with positive on starter terminal, negative on eng block. Hit the switch
*If voltage drops low, you have a bad starter cable
*If voltage stays above 11, you have a bad starter

You'd have to help me look at Randy's alternator connections (assuming alt tests ok) as I am not sure which is field and which is stator, and he has the full black plastic connector housing that has 3 leads in the same housing together, so you can't see which is which unless you take the whole thing off. On the mid 60's like mine you connect each wire individually and the alternator posts are color coded, which, red, or black. His connector looks like this (which might be early 70's? Or even 1980's?)


My new air cleaner decals came in the mail yesterday evening, so I put those on this morning.


One of my freshly powdercoated valve covers, I saw this tab is up. It's always been this way as long as I have owned the car but it slipped my mind. I wish I had noticed / thought about it before sending it to the powder coater because I could have clamped it down and tack welded the edge to keep it in place. Oh well it's too late now.


I will mention tarp at the meeting and see if we can get some volunteers, like you said though this weekend is very busy. I have 5 events listed for Saturday and that's just local, Louis keeps stuff from farther away and probably has 4-6 that I don't bother to track. But Sunday looks open so maybe we can get a few people together.

 

On full field testing the ALT and you cant get to the back of the ALT or in this case it is all in 1 rubber thing, and why I said do it at the regulator.
The regulator should have letters at the flat plug and 1 of them should be "F" think the others are "I" "A" and maybe "S" IIRC
I know there are 4 spades on the regulator but most of the time only 3 are used, it depends on amp gauge or light.
But if you want me to check it out just let me know.

To bad about the valve cover tab but the stickers look good and everyone will be looking at them not the tab.
Besides once you have the plug wires in place you will not even see the tab.

On the tarp I was thinking Sunday afternoon this way people that go to church should be out but we can talk, ask what they think on a time.
I also dont think it will take that long like when we put the cover together as we had bodies

I got to say this DJ Jeep is going to stop on a dime and give me change when I get done rebuilding the brake system. I was at it at 6am and the plan was to have the system all back together.
I knew this may not happen when I pulled the RR shoes off and found the backing plate had grooves and hole cut in it from the shoes.
I then did the #1 no no with drum brakes and pulled them all off and sure enough the other backing plates were the same, grooves and holes
Hit everything with the grinder to get to good meal and then rolled out the MIG welder to weld everything and then more grinding so the shoes would sit flat to the backing plate.
When welding the metal was so thin I blew holes and had to fill them in the weld. Then when grinding it still had holes and the welder was already put away so next plan.
I was going to use JB Weld but found JB Steel, it is a 2 part putty. You cut a chunk off the roll and mix it with your fingers and stick it where you want it.
So while that set up I worked on the fluid side, replacing wheel cylinders and hoses. I found out why the front hoses got eaten by the tires, wheel clylinders were put on the wrong sides.
I was matching parts and that is when I seen the hose connecction was on the other side from the old cylinder so I pulled out the hose and looked to see how it would run and it is out of the way.

The last part of the fluid side was the master cylinder, I had loosen the old one last week so knew it would come out and it did.
New one bolted to the firewall but the lines are on a different side and swapped front to back. Not a big deal as I was able to bend the lines to fit but..........
The small line screwed in no problem but the larger one did not fit, master side was larger
i was like OK maybe I can reuse the old one? I had to pry the cap off and one look inside there is no way this would have ever worked, full of rust and what looked like water sogoing to have to firgure this one out.
OH the rear brakes did not have the self adjuster parts and I missed this when I pulled the drums so I need to order them.
Dave ----

 

I spoke to Randy earlier today, the alternator tested bad at O'Reilly. He snagged a new one and put it in and now sees 13.9v when the engine is running. So that problem is taken care of. I must have missed your saying to test it at the regulator, for sure that would make it a bit easier. Next time I have a questionable one I put a meter on those leads and make a note of what each one is putting out.

On the brake backing plate I immediately had the same thought as you did; pull out the welder and fill in the grooves. But I never dealt with one thin enough to burn though. I do know about the 2-part JB Weld Steel, comes in a tube and you cut off like 1/2 inch of it, seal it back up, then squish your section around until it's uniform gray and put it into place. I used it on the blue truck for something but now I am having trouble remembering where & what for!

So you got all the brakes sorted out except for the self adjusters on one rear side, and then one master cylinder line that is a different size from the previous setup? I do have a lot of brake line adapters and fittings, it is possible that I might have what you need to finish out that line.

My "high misalignment rod ends" came in yesterday. They're designed in such a way that they can go to a further angle than regular rod ends. I think 20 degree angle was the most I could get before, and these went 32 degrees. Just my estimation using a speed square. Anyway it was enough that I could make the brace rods fit comfortably on the tow dolly, so I spent the afternoon measuring, drilling, cutting, welding, and then bolting together. It is nice and firm now, and I verified again that it goes up and down with no problem. I was hoping to have time to put some zero rust paint on the underside but that didn't work out. I won't be able to do anything tomorrow as I have a doc appt and then need to get all my notes for the meeting ready and go have them printed, my whole afternoon is spoken for already.



I just had a fun 3 hours; eating dinner and the wife says "do you hear that?". Turned the TV to mute and a faint "tak tak tak tak tak tak tak" sound. It was coming from under the house. I knew where the sound was is exactly where all the equipment is, the well pressure switch, the tank, etc. But it didn't sound like a leak. Weird. So after I finished eating went under there with a light and sure enough I see water leaking. The "tak tak tak tak" sound was water raining down onto the plastic moisture barrier. But I couldn't see the leak! Eventually I found it, it was leaking behind one of the supports that hold it to the floor joist. So it was spraying out it was just running down both sides of the pipe. In the past I have used repair kits like this for temporary quick fix:


But looking in my box-o-plumbing stuff and I didn't have any in there. But I know the hardware store carries them, so I drove up that way only to find they were closed. They close at 7pm here I was thinking they are open til 8pm and didn't bother to check. So I went all the way to Lowes instead, and they do not sell those repair kits anymore! So I went for plan B which was to slide a piece of hose over it and put a clamp around in. That was a waste of time, it didn't stop the leak. So I went for Plan C which was to fix it correctly by cutting out the bad section and replacing it. There I am 9 o'clock at night under the house hunched over with a mini hacksaw cutting out pipe. Luckily I did have spare pipe and connectors, and my tub of PVC cement was on it's very last leg. It was 90% goo and 10% glue, but I got enough "wet" glue to connect the PVC. But that tub is done now I will need to buy more & put it in my box for next time it's needed. But knock on wood, no more leaks currently.

 

Good to hear Randy go the Mustang charging again. Funny when we were working on it, it always started and I remember someone saying it would crank slowly when warm but it never did it so I thought it was the bad distributor?

On the Jeep DJ it was not only grooves but wear holes too on each one. It was when trying to weld up the holes that it blew holes larger before I could fill it in.
The grooves were not bad to fill in or grind down. Yes that is the stuff in the tube that I used. I mostly used it from the back side and pushed it through the holes that were left after grinding.
On the adjusters it is both rear wheels. Dont know why they were removed unless the grooves messed with it but the front was just as bad so who knows?
Maybe the cable broke on 1 side so both sides were removed?
On the master I may take you up on the fittings. I know I had a small box with some too but when I moved down here I have yet to find the box as I have looked a few times.
I will see if I can find what the thread sizes are. Even if I had the part that fits the master but had to re-flare the line I can as I have enough line to do so.
I just thought of it I need to look what the what the parts truck or I guess my truck had as I am using the parts truck power brake set up, as I still have all the brake lines and master.

That tow dolly is coming along nicely. If you make it too nice you will not be able to use it as it will be lent out all the time

Good thing the wife heard the dripping or you would of had a indoor pool with no head room
I hate that you have to craw under the house to get to anything as a fat *** like me cant get under there like I should to check things over.
When the HVAC guy was out he found when the new system was installed it was a crappy job and had to fix a few things.
He also found the expansion tank, just inside the hatch door, was hanging by the piping. He did not want to put it back up incase something went wrong and I get that, so had to call a plumber.
Also where the HVAC unit is and duct work you have to lay down to get under the duct to get to anything, yea this boy is not doing that if he does not have to.

I was going to work on the Jeep when I got up but it is 35* right now and that is too cold for me at this time. When it warms up I may go out but I also need to order the adjuster kits and when out might get the Durango inspected.
Mary needs to get her car inspected also before renewal hope they dont fail it because the insides is trashed between her throwing stuff everywhere and the cats & dogs she moves have left marks
That is 1 reason why I hate to drive it. I also dont like the ride / seats oh well.
Dave ----

 

John came through with the fitting needed for the master, got it installed with re-flaring the line and bolted in place again.
Now looking at it earlier I did not think anything of it but when I went to hook up the push rod to the pedal the rod is now like 2 inches too long?
I also see the rod had no way to be held in the master like the old one had and was for a non-power brake truck.
So after all this it is the wrong master Good thing I have not benched bleed it as something kept telling me not to.
I dont know if I ordered the wrong one or they sent me the wrong one and it could have been package wrong as the box was beat up and a lot of tape holding it together.

After that the air in my balloon was let out and called it done for the short time I worked on it.
Dave ----

 

All the while we were working on Randy's car it was holding a charge fine. He did say he usually puts a tender on it (trickle charger I imagine) when leaving it for the night, so maybe that always kept the charge up. And being that we never drove it more than a mile or so on test drives did not have time to go dead. idk!

Glad I had a fitting that worked for you, I try to keep stuff like that for exactly this reason. Never know when it might come in handy. But after all that and now it seems like they sent you the wrong m/c anyway. I know that feeling when you're making progress but all of a sudden the wind in your sails gets taken out by a monkey wrench thrown into the gears.

I am going to pick up my car trailer this morning, it's been at this guys place for 6 weeks just to weld on some support brackets on the dovetail. He had a big job come in so mine got pushed to the side and had to wait but he texted me yesterday that it was all done. I'd like to get some painting done on that once I get it home. I bought all the wood for the decking back in February and I'd love to finally get to the point of being able to start putting that down soon.

 

Are ya'll having longer than normal shipping times for parts, etc? Several things I've ordered recently from home goods to motorcycle parts have taken twice as long. I'm still waiting on some bike parts to wrap up the old Yamaha. Supposed to be here Monday but should have been here 5 days ago.

I still haven't put on the struts on my wagon. I'm really going to try and get them all done this evening after work.

Yall have a good weekend. Weather is supposed to be nice.

 

John with all the starting and stopping on Randy's car I would have thought it would have brought the battery down? Well now he knows it is charging.
It was good to see him and his son at the meeting last night. I saw you were talking to him out in the parking lot hope he liked being at the meeting and will join one day.

James I dont know about shipping times, took a week for my Rock Auto DJ brakes to get here but was not in any rush.
Now what has happened with 2 or 3 package is, 1 Chewy, was dropped at the door but could not find it anywhere and the camera did not show anything about it dropped off or stolen.
A Prime order or 2 were sent back to senders and we dont know why, 1 was the cutting boards I was going to use for body mounts on the DJ.
Did not say why they were sent back? I know if the dogs were out and they bark I get up to check why and if it is a delivery I go out to get the package but nothing that I know of stopped the drop
I know that was a first for the Chewy, dont remember orders being sent back to sender either other than the dogs being out but they try again a different day.

I have plans to order the adjusters and master early today and just maybe it would be here by end of day but that is not happening.
1 of the fosters has to go to Pes Smart and Mary wants me to help get him in a carrier and go with her to drop him off and she also said we need green beans for the dogs so got to go food shopping.
I also want to wash the truck, hook up to the club trailer and check it over before the cruise tomorrow. SO the day is shot doing anything on the DJ other than put the front shoes & drums back on.
Dave ----

 

James I was thinking the same thing, usually when I order something on Amazon it arrives the next day, but lately it's been a week or more. I am waiting on a heater hose fitting that I ordered last Friday and it's saying it will arrive Monday. That's 10 days.

Dave your day is shot today like mine was yesterday! I am hoping I have time to go get my Mustang and wash it so as to be ready tomorrow morning, but it is looking like that won't be until later in the afternoon or early evening. I've been sanding and painting ever since it warmed up today, I guess around 10:30 or so.

I was back and forth about this last year and finally settled on black, but now that's closer to paint time I'm up in the air again. A red trailer would be nice and would kinda "pop" with the aluminum wheels.

Just can't decide...

 

The red would also match the truck that will pull it

When I had a 2 car trailer it was painted yellow to match the yellow stripe down the side of the truck used to pull it.
I had a smaller 1 car that was blue when I bought it but painted it black, maybe because I had the paint left over from the trailer I have now?
The one I got now was black when new when a buddy bought it so I just repainted it the same color but did the fenders in silver to be different along with the storage box out front.
From sitting it needs work first is tires if I was going to use it, then a good cleaning and paint job, go over the brake system and maybe add brakes to the 2nd axle as it only has them on 1 axle.

Well Mary did a little food shopping so I can put it off for a day or so but I waited till she got home to do the trash so it was after noon.
I stopped and ordered the adjuster kit for the rear wheels and a master from O'Reilly's. If it comes in later good or I can get it after the show Saturday or .....
Not a big deal as I am in no rush to get it on the road. I still need to do the floors / body mounts. Got the cutting boards after I reordered them, have not opened them but package is heavy.

I got the outside of the truck washed and the wheels sprayed with tire shine. The truck is showing it's age being on the road 6 years now. The passenger door rubs the fender when open / closing for some reason?
I am seeing more paint chipping too but guess that is what happens when you use a truck as a truck

Right now we are trying to get a foster in a carrier to take to Pet Smart and they know when you are trying to get them as the run and hide or tease you to catch them
Dont know if he is going today or? as I will not be here most of Saturday. We kept one foster because of the same thing, could not catch him to get into a carrier but we cant keep doing that.
Dave ----

 

This DJ5 has thrown me for a loop on the master cylinder
I ordered one from Rock Auto and it bolts to the firewall but the lines are on the other side. Not a big deal as I was able to bend them to fit.
Then 1 of the fittings is the wrong size and John came through with the right size. Get it all bolted up and go to put the rod from pedal to master in and it is too long and I see there is nothing to hold it in the master so if the pedal was to get pulled up the rod would fall out and then no brakes.

Ordered one at O'Rielly's this morning with the adjusters for the rear brakes, and when I picked up the parts the master is also the wrong and just like the one from Rock Auto
Looking at pictures of power masters and we cant tell if it is like the ones I have or not?
So on a whim I had them order one for a 75 AMC Gremlin with a 5.0 non-power drum brakes front & rear to see what that comes in as.
From the picture it looks like the old one as the ports are on the right side not the left like the others. So we will see when it comes in if it will work or not.

I am also going to check Face Book DJ5 group to see what they have to say on the master too.
Dave ----

 

After the show today I stopped by the parts store to see if the Gremlin master was in and if it would work.
I did not look at the line ports but the rod will work with this one and if the ports are not right I can deal with it.
Then I hit the hardware store for 2 plastic and 1 metal bushings as the push rod had play where it fit over the pin on the pedal.
I will make one of them work.
I think we may have working brakes on this DJ yet
Dave ----