6 Volt Generator Charging Problem
6 Volt Generator Charging Problem
Can anyone recommend a source for a new 6-volt generator that actually works or an experienced shop that can repair our generator? We have replaced/checked the regulator, checked the wiring (all new) with a meter, properly polarized the generator and have had so called "experts" attempt to repair It. The problem is it does not charge. Are we missing something?
Thanks
Thanks
Which generator do you have? The 36 Amp C8BA, the 40 Amp 8EL, the 60 Amp 8BA? Do you have the matching regulator the C51A-C, the 8BA, the C8BAS?
You do know that the AMP gauge will not show a charge indication if the battery is actually charged?
You do know that the AMP gauge will not show a charge indication if the battery is actually charged?
OP is in Owatonna, Minnesota. Probably would need to go an hour or so north towards Minneapolis/St. Paul and go to a place like Auto Electric Service, 11920 Riverwood Dr, Burnsville, MN 55337 for services.
If one does take their unit to be serviced, the regulator should also accompany it to be tuned accordingly.
If one does take their unit to be serviced, the regulator should also accompany it to be tuned accordingly.
Last edited by bmoran4; Mar 21, 2026 at 11:18 PM.
I've been through hell and back with 6v generators. My savior is Steve Blancard. Can't thank him enough. He does this work for the love of it, rare to see it. He's at Hersey every year too it seems. But his email is ....splitdorf@***.net
You will thank me! He restores Early Ford 6V Generators to stock condition.
You will thank me! He restores Early Ford 6V Generators to stock condition.
Can anyone recommend a source for a new 6-volt generator that actually works or an experienced shop that can repair our generator? We have replaced/checked the regulator, checked the wiring (all new) with a meter, properly polarized the generator and have had so called "experts" attempt to repair It. The problem is it does not charge. Are we missing something?
Thanks
Thanks
1. You mentioned polarizing the generator. Make sure your Generator is wired correctly to the Voltage regulator. Gen Field to Volts Regulator Field, Gen Armature to Volts Reg Armature. Also you have a ground wire connected between the Voltage Regulator base and the Generator ground terminal. Next with the battery connected go to the Volts Regulator and carefully remove the Battery and Field wires and touch them together. Do you get a small spark? If so good. If not further investigate the wiring conditions and connections to your Generator.
2. Assuming you are done with step 1, reconnect the Battery wire to the Voltage Regulator but leave the Field wire off just for now. Start the truck, measure the voltage at the battery. Hopefully your battery has been charged, but lets see if the Generator will charge by measuring the voltage while you are full fielding the generator. With the truck running short the FIeld wire to the Battery Terminal connection on the Voltage Regulator and watch the battery voltage. It should slowly start to rise. If not have someone Rev up the engine to what you think could be over 1500 RPM. Why do this? Your voltage regulator cut out relay may need more current to pull in, thus connecting the Generator to Battery for charging. Some folks (including me!) have forgot the "give her more RPM part" and thought they still had a bad Regulator or Generator.
If the Generator appears charging now, normal everything back together and drive.
IF you want to, you could make a GEN failure light like we used to have in our dash. Just take a 6 volt light, a socket, and splice in a couple of lengths of wire. One to a 6 volt switched terminal to your Ignition switch, the other connects to the Armature terminal on your voltage regulator. You start up the truck the light will be on until you rev the engine or pull out of your driveway and shift. When the light goes out it means your battery and generator are now connected by your Voltage Regulator. If you are sitting at a traffic light and you see it flicker, don't worry, at a low RPM idle it may do that.
Last edited by hooler1; Mar 22, 2026 at 06:56 PM.
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OP is in Owatonna, Minnesota. Probably would need to go an hour or so north towards Minneapolis/St. Paul and go to a place like Auto Electric Service, 11920 Riverwood Dr, Burnsville, MN 55337 for services.
If one does take their unit to be serviced, the regulator should also accompany it to be tuned accordingly.
If one does take their unit to be serviced, the regulator should also accompany it to be tuned accordingly.
Here is some documentation on testing generators - Ford used Type "B":
https://www.delcoremyhistory.com/ima...rators%204.pdf
I would also not be afraid to contact the shop and ask their advice - if they are reputable, they should stand by their work.
https://www.delcoremyhistory.com/ima...rators%204.pdf
I would also not be afraid to contact the shop and ask their advice - if they are reputable, they should stand by their work.
You probably have checked a lot of things, so sorry if I am taking you down the same path.
1. You mentioned polarizing the generator. Make sure your Generator is wired correctly to the Voltage regulator. Gen Field to Volts Regulator Field, Gen Armature to Volts Reg Armature. Also you have a ground wire connected between the Voltage Regulator base and the Generator ground terminal. Next with the battery connected go to the Volts Regulator and carefully remove the Battery and Field wires and touch them together. Do you get a small spark? If so good. If not further investigate the wiring conditions and connections to your Generator.
2. Assuming you are done with step 1, reconnect the Battery wire to the Voltage Regulator but leave the Field wire off just for now. Start the truck, measure the voltage at the battery. Hopefully your battery has been charged, but lets see if the Generator will charge by measuring the voltage while you are full fielding the generator. With the truck running short the FIeld wire to the Battery Terminal connection on the Voltage Regulator and watch the battery voltage. It should slowly start to rise. If not have someone Rev up the engine to what you think could be over 1500 RPM. Why do this? Your voltage regulator cut out relay may need more current to pull in, thus connecting the Generator to Battery for charging. Some folks (including me!) have forgot the "give her more RPM part" and thought they still had a bad Regulator or Generator.
If the Generator appears charging now, normal everything back together and drive.
IF you want to, you could make a GEN failure light like we used to have in our dash. Just take a 6 volt light, a socket, and splice in a couple of lengths of wire. One to a 6 volt switched terminal to your Ignition switch, the other connects to the Armature terminal on your voltage regulator. You start up the truck the light will be on until you rev the engine or pull out of your driveway and shift. When the light goes out it means your battery and generator are now connected by your Voltage Regulator. If you are sitting at a traffic light and you see it flicker, don't worry, at a low RPM idle it may do that.
1. You mentioned polarizing the generator. Make sure your Generator is wired correctly to the Voltage regulator. Gen Field to Volts Regulator Field, Gen Armature to Volts Reg Armature. Also you have a ground wire connected between the Voltage Regulator base and the Generator ground terminal. Next with the battery connected go to the Volts Regulator and carefully remove the Battery and Field wires and touch them together. Do you get a small spark? If so good. If not further investigate the wiring conditions and connections to your Generator.
2. Assuming you are done with step 1, reconnect the Battery wire to the Voltage Regulator but leave the Field wire off just for now. Start the truck, measure the voltage at the battery. Hopefully your battery has been charged, but lets see if the Generator will charge by measuring the voltage while you are full fielding the generator. With the truck running short the FIeld wire to the Battery Terminal connection on the Voltage Regulator and watch the battery voltage. It should slowly start to rise. If not have someone Rev up the engine to what you think could be over 1500 RPM. Why do this? Your voltage regulator cut out relay may need more current to pull in, thus connecting the Generator to Battery for charging. Some folks (including me!) have forgot the "give her more RPM part" and thought they still had a bad Regulator or Generator.
If the Generator appears charging now, normal everything back together and drive.
IF you want to, you could make a GEN failure light like we used to have in our dash. Just take a 6 volt light, a socket, and splice in a couple of lengths of wire. One to a 6 volt switched terminal to your Ignition switch, the other connects to the Armature terminal on your voltage regulator. You start up the truck the light will be on until you rev the engine or pull out of your driveway and shift. When the light goes out it means your battery and generator are now connected by your Voltage Regulator. If you are sitting at a traffic light and you see it flicker, don't worry, at a low RPM idle it may do that.
Thanks for the reply. I did verify the gen to regulator wiring was correct and properly grounded. I removed the field wire from the regulator and started her up. I did not notice any change in battery voltage (around 6.3). I wasn't until I shorted the field wire to the battery wire that the voltage jumped up to 8 volts.
Thanks for the reply. I did verify the gen to regulator wiring was correct and properly grounded. I removed the field wire from the regulator and started her up. I did not notice any change in battery voltage (around 6.3). I wasn't until I shorted the field wire to the battery wire that the voltage jumped up to 8 volts.
My reading comprehension could be failing me.
Maybe the OP could clarify that his charging system is now working as it should.











