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ultimate gremlin

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Old Mar 21, 2026 | 11:49 AM
  #1  
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ultimate gremlin

1992 E350 with 351 W engine. All at once, on a trip, it started running bad. Was fine up to then. (only has 44K miles on it) No power., got us home, barely. Did all kinds of diagnostics on it, tried 3 other computers, all new ignition components, new cat. converter, Had it to 2 different shops, they cannot find the problem. I was told the compression tests fine. The second shop said on a leak-down test, cylinder 4 has a leaking intake valve, and cyl. 8 has a leaking exhaust valve, (or vice versa) How was the compression tested OK then? The second shop had it for months! (irrelevant) I had to pay those shops enough to buy a replacement engine by now, but it looks like a very tough job to R&R it! I am near the Charlotte Motor Speedway, I would think there would be a good Ford mechanic around here, but they don't want to work on anything this old! They want huge money to switch it out for me!
 

Last edited by BMWSID; Mar 21, 2026 at 07:49 PM. Reason: Can't read the difference in 8 or9!!, cant spell, either!
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Old Mar 22, 2026 | 10:47 PM
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Two things to try the easiest is replace the MAF sensor and the second is to remove the valve covers and look for a bad valve spring. A bad valve as spring will cause all sorts of miss fires on port fuel injection motors.

Denny
 
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Old Mar 23, 2026 | 01:04 AM
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A slightly leaky valve or two with good compression won't cause "All at once, on a trip, it started running bad" and "No power., got us home, barely".

Also, a leak-down is over time, while compression is in the moment while cranking the engine. You can have good compression while having slightly-leaky valves.

You're going to have to go into more detail here:

- Specifically what new ignition components?
- Why was the cat replaced? Was it diagnosed as plugged?
- What were the compression numbers?
- What does "running bad" mean? Misfiring? Shaking? Knocking? Noises? Etc.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2026 | 06:33 AM
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It takes three things for ICE - compression, fuel and spark. If it has those three things, it is likely an ignition / electronic control part that crapped out, especially with sudden onset of running but no power.
Here's a troubleshooting list, courtesy of ChatGPT, when I asked this question: 1992 Ford 351-W V-8 suddenly loses power under load. What is wrong?

ChatGPT Answer:

Possible causes (prioritized by likelihood and ease to check):

1. Fuel delivery
- Clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump → low pressure under load. Check fuel pressure at rail (spec ~4–6 psi for EFI of that era; carb models: ensure bowl fills).
- Carburetor issues (if carbureted): clogged jets, stuck accelerator pump, or collapsed float needle → lean under load.

2. Ignition
- Weak spark under load: worn points/condensor (if distributor points), bad coil, cracked plug wires, fouled or worn spark plugs, or a failing ignition module. Inspect plugs and wires; check coil primary/secondary and dwell (points) or module operation.
- Distributor advance stuck (mechanical or vacuum advance) → wrong timing under load.

3. Sensor/fuel metering (if EFI)
- Bad MAP/MAF (if equipped), TPS, or fuel pressure regulator causing lean mixture under load.

4. Air intake / vacuum leaks
- Large vacuum leak can cause lean condition under load. Inspect hoses and carb / EFI gasket.
- Restricted air filter or intake obstruction is less common but possible.

5. Timing
- Timing jumped (loose timing chain or slipped gear) → loss of power, especially under load. Check timing marks; excessive chain slack or worn sprockets.

6. Exhaust restriction
- Partially clogged exhaust or collapsed catalytic converter (older pre-cat trucks may have muffler/exhaust blockage) → power loss under load and increased backpressure.

7. Mechanical issues
- Low compression (worn rings, burned valves) — does problem occur at all RPMs? Perform a compression or leak-down test.
- Valve train problems (broken spring, valve not seating) causing sudden loss under load.

Quick checks to narrow it down (do in this order)
1. Listen for misfires; inspect spark plugs for color/wear.
2. Check ignition coil, wires, and distributor cap/rotor.
3. Check for vacuum leaks and condition of vacuum advance.
4. Check fuel pressure.
5. Verify timing at idle and with slight revs; watch for jump/misalignment.
6. Scan for any codes if EFI or electronic ignition present.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2026 | 11:27 AM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20615603
 
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