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Hello all, I’ve got an 85 f150 SCMB 2WD truck which I daily drive.
I’m swapping the front and rear suspension into my truck out of a 96 ford bronco which I did a bunch of work on because it was a good friend of mine’s.
Ive got new springs shocks bushings and all my brackets for the bullnose but Im stopped by trying to figure out my axle leaf blocks. The ones off the bronco fell apart when I yanked it apart but I’d like to know the stock lift block/ pinion angle block for the axle and springs so I know what to order so I can throw the axles in.
I am a fully certified GM technician so use big words if you want.
Hello all, I’ve got an 85 f150 SCMB 2WD truck which I daily drive.
I’m swapping the front and rear suspension into my truck out of a 96 ford bronco which I did a bunch of work on because it was a good friend of mine’s.
Ive got new springs shocks bushings and all my brackets for the bullnose but Im stopped by trying to figure out my axle leaf blocks. The ones off the bronco fell apart when I yanked it apart but I’d like to know the stock lift block/ pinion angle block for the axle and springs so I know what to order so I can throw the axles in.
I am a fully certified GM technician so use big words if you want.
You dont have enough of the old ones to tell how tall they were for replacements?
I dont think they were a angle shim to adjust the pinion, thought they were flat across front to rear?
The only time you might need to shim the axle and lower the transfer case is if you added a lift kit of more than 4 inches?
Most of the time it was because the Ujoints would bind if you did not raise the pinion and lower the case.
On old straight front axles and leaf springs you would use angle shims to get the caster within spec.
Never use lift blocks on the front axle EVER!
Dave ----
Hello all, I’ve got an 85 f150 SCMB 2WD truck which I daily drive.
I’m swapping the front and rear suspension into my truck out of a 96 ford bronco which I did a bunch of work on because it was a good friend of mine’s.
Ive got new springs shocks bushings and all my brackets for the bullnose but Im stopped by trying to figure out my axle leaf blocks. The ones off the bronco fell apart when I yanked it apart but I’d like to know the stock lift block/ pinion angle block for the axle and springs so I know what to order so I can throw the axles in.
I am a fully certified GM technician so use big words if you want.
It's going to be hard to order one. The stock blocks had a wing on them for the rubber bump stop to hit against. See if you can find one to look at, you will see what I mean. The stock block is flat, no pinion angle wedge to it. I am not going to say how tall, I can't remember and all I have is a f250 to look at.
You dont have enough of the old ones to tell how tall they were for replacements?
I dont think they were a angle shim to adjust the pinion, thought they were flat across front to rear?
The only time you might need to shim the axle and lower the transfer case is if you added a lift kit of more than 4 inches?
Most of the time it was because the Ujoints would bind if you did not raise the pinion and lower the case.
On old straight front axles and leaf springs you would use angle shims to get the caster within spec.
Never use lift blocks on the front axle EVER!
Dave ----
I am aware to not use blocks on the front axle, I thought that was obvious.
The old ones were on a bronco with a different pinion angle than mine would be.
I just want to know if I am good to put the springs flat on the axle perch and throw some new u bolts in it and it’ll be all good.
I do not want to put everything together on the truck which I drive every day and some old timer pops out and says “your **** will explode if you don’t fix that!”
I am aware to not use blocks on the front axle, I thought that was obvious.
The old ones were on a bronco with a different pinion angle than mine would be.
I just want to know if I am good to put the springs flat on the axle perch and throw some new u bolts in it and it’ll be all good.
I do not want to put everything together on the truck which I drive every day and some old timer pops out and says “your **** will explode if you don’t fix that!”
You may know about front blocks but some reading this, now or later, may not and why I said what I did.
How do you figure the pinion angle was different on the Bronco than your truck?
We know the blocks do not set the angle. We know the rear axle if factory would be the same as they can be swapped between Broncos and pickup trucks.
Because of that we know the spring perches are set to the same angle so where is the difference?
If there was a angle shim on the Bronco it was added by someone not the factory. Maybe the Bronco had a lift kit installed but if it was not on all 4 wheels you may not know if it had one or not.
Dave ----
I am aware to not use blocks on the front axle, I thought that was obvious.
The old ones were on a bronco with a different pinion angle than mine would be.
I just want to know if I am good to put the springs flat on the axle perch and throw some new u bolts in it and it’ll be all good.
I do not want to put everything together on the truck which I drive every day and some old timer pops out and says “your **** will explode if you don’t fix that!”
I never messed with a Bronco, but you are probably right about the different blocks on the Bronco versus a regular pickup. My Bronco II does have a different angle and a special double cardan u-joint. From what I have seen in the pickups I have had, they did have blocks, and they were flat with a large wing for the rubber bumpstop to hit. If you do not use the bumpstops, you risk breaking a leaf in the spring when hauling a load over uneven ground.
Last edited by Franklin2; Mar 19, 2026 at 09:42 PM.
I know they make longer bump stops for trucks that have lift kits.
You could get a pair and bolt them on your truck if the blocks you get dont have the wings.
Dave ----
I know they make longer bump stops for trucks that have lift kits.
You could get a pair and bolt them on your truck if the blocks you get dont have the wings.
Dave ----
With lift kits you usually stack the blocks. You put the factory block on top against the bottom of the leaf spring so it will still contact the rubber stop. And then put the lift block below the stock block.