blocks vs leaf springs
Using blocks keeps you the stock soft ride, however, they will increase the chance of axle wrap. Putting blocks spaces the axle away from the springs and acts as a breaker bar for the axle and you may see that when offroading.
Replacing the sprigs with lifted ones will be stiffer, but it wont's wrap.
If you do blocks, I would sugest a 4-link or radius arms like the front has, to hold the axle in place.
Hope this ya, good luck bro.
Replacing the sprigs with lifted ones will be stiffer, but it wont's wrap.
If you do blocks, I would sugest a 4-link or radius arms like the front has, to hold the axle in place.
Hope this ya, good luck bro.
BroncoRoadKill has the right answer, the stock springs with blocks will keep the softer ride, but some type of traction bar set up is needed. I would also keep in mind that 3" blocks would be a max that I would go without a big chance of axle wrap. In some of the stock vehicals, Ford actually installed these. The only problem about rearching springs is that there is no longevity to the time the recompress. The arch will only last for a year or so with any use.
well i'm planning on getting a 6" lift but i wasn't sure if i shouold do blocks and add-a-leafs in the back or just new leaf springs in back
thanks for your help i have an idea what i want to do now
thanks for your help i have an idea what i want to do now
How much do you plan to offroad? If the lift is just for show and maybe a little fun, then blocks may be ok. But, the minute you romp on the go padal, you run the risk of spitting out the blocks, even with traction bars or a 4 link. Skyjacker, and Tough Country, to name a couple, have lift systems that won't make the ride any stiffer.
DG808
DG808
I wouldnt get blocks.
My friend only put a 2 inch lift blocks on the springs, and he was replacing ujoints every two weeks or so. He replaced the rear springs with lifted ones with no blocks and he has had no trouble.
I dont know if you will have any trouble with yours, he had an 89 Bronco and a very heavy foot with 32"tires and he went off road almost every day. He beats on it. But if you are carefull i dont think that you would have a problem with 3" blocks like xray said. 6" is alot and i would get the springs.
thats my 2cents.
My friend only put a 2 inch lift blocks on the springs, and he was replacing ujoints every two weeks or so. He replaced the rear springs with lifted ones with no blocks and he has had no trouble.
I dont know if you will have any trouble with yours, he had an 89 Bronco and a very heavy foot with 32"tires and he went off road almost every day. He beats on it. But if you are carefull i dont think that you would have a problem with 3" blocks like xray said. 6" is alot and i would get the springs.
thats my 2cents.
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I have a 94 F-150 Super Cab short box that I built a 4" lift for the front by building welding jigs, and cutting the traction beams and welding them back with the proper angles and spacing. For the rear I knew that axle spacers wern't going to be good choice so I went with Skyjacker 4" lift springs. When I built the 9 inch Ford with 4.56 gears I reinforced the housing and when doing so I made provision for a traction bar. I never built the traction bar, it didn't need it. This truck was a great mudder, I even took it to the mud drags once and did well with it (with a 302 engine). This is all going to be transfered to an 87 Bronco I now have, with a 351 and a 5 speed manual trans. So with that, I just might need the traction bar added. A mall cruiser can get away with using blocks, but if your going to use it hard go with the springs. With blocks, your pinion angle will fluctuate a lot between hard acceleration and also hard braking.




