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I having trouble with my automatic steering column. The ignition lock feels spongy when it's turned to the start position and doesn't spring back all that well or at all. Is this my lock going bad or the switch that's down low on the column? Hadn't hooked up a battery to test anything. Trying to get my '83 ready for an engine currently. Non tilt column.
Last edited by Bronco912; Mar 10, 2026 at 04:51 PM.
But it does crank over? If it doesn't crank over, is it a tilt column? See if the slot where the turnsignall stalk comes out of the column looks like a Fat "T". If it does, hold onto the steering wheel at the bottom and push the turnsignal switch arm toward the instrument cluster. The wheel should fall into your lap if you have a tilt column. The reason I ask this, the tilt columns only have a piece that breaks inside the column, and can cause a no-crank problem. The stores carry this piece.
But it does crank over? If it doesn't crank over, is it a tilt column? See if the slot where the turnsignall stalk comes out of the column looks like a Fat "T". If it does, hold onto the steering wheel at the bottom and push the turnsignal switch arm toward the instrument cluster. The wheel should fall into your lap if you have a tilt column. The reason I ask this, the tilt columns only have a piece that breaks inside the column, and can cause a no-crank problem. The stores carry this piece.
Dave he said non-tilt but he should double check.
He did also say battery not hooked up so that would be no crank.
Originally Posted by BigBlue2
Lubricate the key tumbler cylinder. WD40 and follow up with a silicone lubricant or lock ease spray. Should help.
The tumbler would have nothing with the key turning / returning when turned.
If you could not get the key in or out then tumbler. Well just a thought if a tumbler was hanging up it may not turn so I little shot of WD-40 would not hurt.
As a test unbolt the switch at the bottom of the column and see how the key turns.
But I found spraying contact cleaner & lube in the switch helped mine return to run after start.
Dave ----
I lube mine with silicone. Once every year or two. Doesn't take much to keep mine smooth and returning to run from start. I haven't ever lubed the switch. But depending on leaks and corrosion some lube on the switch can help too.
Lubricate the key tumbler cylinder. WD40 and follow up with a silicone lubricant or lock ease spray. Should help.
DANGER, DANGER, Will Smith DANGER!!!!!! Okay, we aren't lost in space but be careful where you spray WD-40. Don't get me wrong, WD-40 is good stuff. However, do NOT spray it on key cylinders or lacks. It's a good cutting oil and the WD-40 will wear the cylinder a little every time you insert and turn the key. The same with door hinges. Any grit, even dust, will wallow the bushing out and require replacement.
WD-40 is what I use to cool the bit when I drill. Instead, use 3in1 motor oil for small motors. It's perfect. 3in1 also makes a penetrant oil that will free up some really sticky stuff. I had a locksmith show me it and it has solved a BUNCH of problems over the last couple of years since he showed me that. I've saved several pieces of hardware that were made out of unobtanium.
DANGER, DANGER, Will Smith DANGER!!!!!! Okay, we aren't lost in space but be careful where you spray WD-40. Don't get me wrong, WD-40 is good stuff. However, do NOT spray it on key cylinders or lacks. It's a good cutting oil and the WD-40 will wear the cylinder a little every time you insert and turn the key. The same with door hinges. Any grit, even dust, will wallow the bushing out and require replacement.
WD-40 is what I use to cool the bit when I drill. Instead, use 3in1 motor oil for small motors. It's perfect. 3in1 also makes a penetrant oil that will free up some really sticky stuff. I had a locksmith show me it and it has solved a BUNCH of problems over the last couple of years since he showed me that. I've saved several pieces of hardware that were made out of unobtanium.
I hadn't heard about WD40 eating up locks. I used in on my ignition cylinder once as a cleaner. But I followed it up with silicone lubricant and have stayed with that as the return stays smooth. I do have 3 in One and the cousin for small motors too. I never thought of using it on locks and tumblers. For my entry locks I'm using Fluid-Film and that seems to work well. I haven't used Fluid-Film on the ignition key cylinder but it's working well on the doors. It has staying power. One member swears by graphite based lock ease.
I hadn't heard about WD40 eating up locks. I used in on my ignition cylinder once as a cleaner. But I followed it up with silicone lubricant and have stayed with that as the return stays smooth. I do have 3 in One and the cousin for small motors too. I never thought of using it on locks and tumblers. For my entry locks I'm using Fluid-Film and that seems to work well. I haven't used Fluid-Film on the ignition key cylinder but it's working well on the doors. It has staying power. One member swears by graphite based lock ease.
Lock-Ez is good stuff. Graphite is a good lubricant EXCEPT for in anything to do with the ignition system. Then it causes ignition misfires due to shorting out. Lot's of things are coming back to me from before computers. It's been years since I dealt with these types of issues.
I thought it was "DANGER, DANGER, Will Robinson DANGER!!!!!! It was Dr. Smith that screwed everything up from the start and kept on doing it
Yep showing my age here
Dave ----
You're quite right! The show was based on the story "The Swiss Family Robinson" which was based on the story "Robinson Caruso". I watched the show a little when it first hit the air but there were so many plot problems and poor science involved, I lost interest. Robbie the Robot was the one talking and he was in several shows and movies.