Hey all, I've got an 86' f 150 ext cab, 351,auto, tilt wheel had the dreaded no crank no start this weekend. After reading a few threads I lowered the column and was able to get it started by pushing the rod down with the key in start I see that autozone sells a steering column lock actuator for 9.99 does any body know if that is the part I need ? part #83280 Any thing I can do to make this one last? Thanks

 

This is the part you need. They break in half, it's just pot metal and a poor design. A new ignition switch down under the dash may help if it's stiff to move.

 

ok thanks I'll see what they're part looks like

 

If you're replacing that, now is the time to take the ignition cylinder lock out, the steering wheel lock pin, the snap ring and washer with the rectangular hole out of the ignition lock hole and take the gear and gear shaft out, clean the dirty old gummy grease out of everything there and replace it with CRC silicone spray lubricant. No more sticky ignition lock in the winter like all of these older Ford's seem to have. The CRC silicone spray dries and leaves a non stick film and doesn't leave a gummy residue for dirt to collect and make the system all gummed up in the cold.

 

After finally getting it torn done enough to get the new actuator in. I had to disassembly it 2 or 3 times, I wasn't getting the tumbler and the piece that connects to the actuator aligned. First time together, couldn't get the lock cylinder installed!. Second time the dash lights and radio would not shut down!. Third time I had to pull the coil wire to shut it off!. Everything works now only injury was my pride:

 

Matt is right, I'd take the lock cylinder out and then the gear in that hole and clean it all up. I had to do the same thing with mine - it was all gummed up. Put a new starter switch, tumbler in and with new greased parts, everything works flawless. Problem initially was the lock cylinder would not return to the "RUN" position on its own. Takes about an hour but well worth it.

 

Don't feel bad. It takes me two or three times to get it right myself. I went to the dealer and asked them about how to do it, and they said "go talk to our steering column guy". What does that tell you?

 

If this is the part that actually sends the power to the starter, thenI think I posted how to do this is another thread, is there a video or diagram on how to do this? I'm not sure they are the same though. Thanks, I'm not getting fire to the distributor when turning the key.

 

When the actuator breaks, everything on the dash lights up, but it won't crank over. If it's cranking over when you spring the key to start, then the column actuator is good.

 

IDoes Cranking over means it tries to start? It does not try to start. It was trying to crank and I thought the battery cable was loose and kept twisting them on the terminal and trying to crank till it sort of started to continue trying to start by itself and then the solenoid on the firewall started smoking. I have a new starter., New solenoid, New regulator, new ICModule. Dash does light up well it is always dim since the bulb is old, I checked it at night. A guy I know said he is going to come back and pull the steering column since he said the distributor is not getting fire, but I think he really does not want to fool with this and its been a long while that the truck has been up on the jack stands so I'm trying to figure out what might be the right thing to do while I wait--just getting impatient. I hope he gets here soon. But he has a tiny shop full of cars and no room he says and I see that this is true. Hoping not to have to pull it to a shop that knows about this sort of thing, if there is even one, guy is good and trustworthy, just busy. He did put on new battery cables as they were burned. Said that somebody had wired it wrong trying to take it off--yep, another guy I know tried to take it off, but the back bolt was rounded a bit and gave up, I told him just to put the bolts in but he apparently put the wire back on. I think the ground was wrong.

 

When I say "cranking over" I mean the engine is turning, but not necessarily running. I think of "starting" as the engine cranking AND running shortly afterward. If the engine is turning over or cranking, then it's not a battery cable problem.

Do you have any testing equipment like a testlight or meter? You can't do any troubleshooting without something.

 

No, this is part of the mechanical linkage that takes the rotation of the lock cylinder through the tilt mechanism and provides linear motion to work the actual ignition switch which is located down the column. It's a common failure point, but it does not carry any electrical power. When it breaks, you cannot rotate the key far enough to engage the start position.

 

So how do I get to the ignition switch? I guess this has been my question all along, that would prevent fire to the distributor and still let lights horn etc come on. I think. https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Ign...hoC3qMQAvD_BwE

 

1. Pull the short cover off the steering column near the cluster. If you have a automatic, you will see a plastic tube with a string in it. This is your PRNDL indicator. Take this loose from the column so you don't break it.

2. Look under the column on the dash, there will be a u-bracket with two bolts. Support the steering wheel and take these two bolts out. Then slowly lower the column till it hits the seat. Be careful of any wiring or anything getting stuck.

3. Once the column is lowered down, you will see the switch mounted on top of the column, in the underdash area.

4. Follow the instructions with the switch. They usually give you a setup pin to get it set right.

 

See if anything here helps you:

Steering Columns - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)