A shocking question.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 332
Likes: 186
A shocking question.
I like this forum. Lot's of activity from people who seem to have a lick of common sense. I've been on other forums that there are people who read a book once, or looked at their phone, and know more than I do on the old stuff. Here at least folks know which end of the wrench to use.
To my question. I'm looking at the mismatched plug and coil wires and when I popped the distributor cap off, I noticed a lot of corrosion and wear for the contacts. Hence, my question. I know, shocking, right?
What is the general consensus on ignition parts to use? What are the best current crop of plug wires to use for a nice hot spark without ghost flashes? Can I get a cap and rotor with brass or copper electrodes? What's a good hot plug to use?
When this truck was new, I knew what was good but with 40 years of advancements, what's good now? The engine runs okay, but it isn't really happy. It can definitely run better. Part of that is the slop I've found in the timing chain, but it definitely needs a good tune up.
To my question. I'm looking at the mismatched plug and coil wires and when I popped the distributor cap off, I noticed a lot of corrosion and wear for the contacts. Hence, my question. I know, shocking, right?
What is the general consensus on ignition parts to use? What are the best current crop of plug wires to use for a nice hot spark without ghost flashes? Can I get a cap and rotor with brass or copper electrodes? What's a good hot plug to use?When this truck was new, I knew what was good but with 40 years of advancements, what's good now? The engine runs okay, but it isn't really happy. It can definitely run better. Part of that is the slop I've found in the timing chain, but it definitely needs a good tune up.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,650
Likes: 1,156
From: Tolland, CT
I trust my local NAPA to help me choose the best parts. Some of the guys there have been there for over 15 years that I've been going to this NAPA.
Echlin, Stanndard, don't buy the cheap part. I did find, I had to open up the bolt holes on the Standard battery ground cable. Not a big issue.
Most of us stay with the copper plugs, Again, buy from a trusted place.
I have Belden spark plug wires, they have been there for a long time, I mean like 25+ years.
Echlin, Stanndard, don't buy the cheap part. I did find, I had to open up the bolt holes on the Standard battery ground cable. Not a big issue.
Most of us stay with the copper plugs, Again, buy from a trusted place.
I have Belden spark plug wires, they have been there for a long time, I mean like 25+ years.
Last edited by Max Capacity; Mar 8, 2026 at 11:40 AM.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,856
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
^^ what he said ^^
Copper plugs, none of them fancy ones as some have had issues with them and others not and they all have been hard to find with the problem was till the plugs came up.
Wires, I did not go for the cheapest ones but also not the big dollar one either, been going on 6+ years now.
Cap & rotor I dont know if mine are brass or not but they have been working 2 years now as I replaced them, with plugs, when I had a miss under load, it was a fouled plug.
I dont have a problem going to one of the big parts stores, I got one within walking distance if need be and I get a discount with my car club membership.
Thing is I look up all parts online first so I know what they offer and have in stock and I hardly ever go for the cheapest one unless I need to get back up and running NOW!
But with the pickup, SUV, and car I can drive plus the wife's car I am hardly ever in a rush.
Dave ----
Copper plugs, none of them fancy ones as some have had issues with them and others not and they all have been hard to find with the problem was till the plugs came up.
Wires, I did not go for the cheapest ones but also not the big dollar one either, been going on 6+ years now.
Cap & rotor I dont know if mine are brass or not but they have been working 2 years now as I replaced them, with plugs, when I had a miss under load, it was a fouled plug.
I dont have a problem going to one of the big parts stores, I got one within walking distance if need be and I get a discount with my car club membership.
Thing is I look up all parts online first so I know what they offer and have in stock and I hardly ever go for the cheapest one unless I need to get back up and running NOW!
But with the pickup, SUV, and car I can drive plus the wife's car I am hardly ever in a rush.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 332
Likes: 186
I trust my local NAPA to help me choose the best parts. Some of the guys there have been there for over 15 years that I've been going to this NAPA.
Echlin, Stanndard, don't buy the cheap part. I did find, I had to open up the bolt holes on the Standard battery ground cable. Not a big issue.
Most of us stay with the copper plugs, Again, buy from a trusted place.
I have Belden spark plug wires, they have been there for a long time, I mean like 25+ years.
Echlin, Stanndard, don't buy the cheap part. I did find, I had to open up the bolt holes on the Standard battery ground cable. Not a big issue.
Most of us stay with the copper plugs, Again, buy from a trusted place.
I have Belden spark plug wires, they have been there for a long time, I mean like 25+ years.
Standard ignition parts were my go to for years back when I raced. The brass parts often took a slight miss out of an otherwise good running engine. I'm thinking about either copper or platinum plugs. I like Champion but rarely use them on carbureted engines as if they flood, they are shot. Then again, some of the stuff we did "back in the day" wouldn't fly today. The transmission is my first priority, then I'll track down the other things. All the other stuff I'm doing is just while waiting on parts.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 513
Likes: 68
I do like to use a cap with the brass terminals. With even good brands being kinda cheap these days, you just need to spin the wheel and hope. As for wires. I really prefer Taylor wires on most things. Really well made, and while not cheap, wont break the bank either. That being said, Ive also had great luck with the cheaper sets ive gotten from Amazon. Maybe ive been lucky with those? Who knows. Plugs? Copper core Motorcraft or Autolite. Save the fancy stuff for the late model stuff.
Trending Topics
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,856
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
Go copper not the platinum.
Our trucks were made to use copper and the newer type plugs have been known to cause problems.
Maybe not right away or maybe never but why risk it chasing your azz trying to find why it runs like crap only to put copper plugs in.
Again you may get lucky and they would be ok then again???
I also go with the factory heat range. Now if it was a oil burner and kept fouling plugs then I may go hotter.
Just my .02
Dave ----
Our trucks were made to use copper and the newer type plugs have been known to cause problems.
Maybe not right away or maybe never but why risk it chasing your azz trying to find why it runs like crap only to put copper plugs in.
Again you may get lucky and they would be ok then again???
I also go with the factory heat range. Now if it was a oil burner and kept fouling plugs then I may go hotter.
Just my .02
Dave ----
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 332
Likes: 186
Got some copper plugs and other ignition parts. I think they are either Autolight or Motorcraft. Back in the day, I used Champions but they had a habit of flooding out and never starting again. However, I got to looking at my plug wires. Either this truck was service at a Ford shop the last tune up or it has the factory wires. Each one is marked with the cylinder location as well as the Ford logo.
I'm going to wait until I swap the transmission to see what else needs attention when I start driving it. I've got the transmission and all the stuff to freshen it up. I'm just waiting on some warmer weather. It was 75 yesterday and the high today was 31.
I'm going to wait until I swap the transmission to see what else needs attention when I start driving it. I've got the transmission and all the stuff to freshen it up. I'm just waiting on some warmer weather. It was 75 yesterday and the high today was 31.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2025
Posts: 110
Likes: 27
In the last year I got a 1986 5.0 EFI running, long saga, but I can say, that I used a lot of Standard Motor Products parts, and none let me down. They have become my go to for electronic parts. That said, I did burn out a Motorcraft TFI ignition module in less than a couple hours of running time, moved it to the fender with a heat sink and CPU fans, and put in a cheap SMP module… its been running with that for the past 6+ months. Summer is coming though.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 332
Likes: 186
In the last year I got a 1986 5.0 EFI running, long saga, but I can say, that I used a lot of Standard Motor Products parts, and none let me down. They have become my go to for electronic parts. That said, I did burn out a Motorcraft TFI ignition module in less than a couple hours of running time, moved it to the fender with a heat sink and CPU fans, and put in a cheap SMP module… its been running with that for the past 6+ months. Summer is coming though.
FoMoCo and Chryslers of this vintage didn't like heat. GM was a little more stable. Back in the day, I'd fill a sandwich bag with ice from a cooler or get a fountain soft drink, heavy on the ice, and use that is the baggie to cool the brain box.
My truck fires right up and runs pretty good. The guy I got it from, his son had trouble starting it. He'd never driven a carbureted engine before and didn't know how to set the choke. I'm having trouble with it dieseling but I suspect the timing chain has some slop. Once I put the new (well, used but hopefully good) transmission in, I'll tear into the water pump and timing chain. Everything looks factory. The heater and water pump bypass hoses are OLD, dry rotted and really soft.
My new cap and rotor showed up from Standard and they have nice brass inserts.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,856
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
I dont think I have seen a bad chain cause dieseling?
Timing jumping all over the place, maybe lack of power but you would have to see that from a bad chain to a good one and even then maybe not.
99% of the time for dieseling is the idle speed too high.
Now if it has to be that high for when in gear you may want to look into a idle solenoid to fit on the carb.
You set the idle speed with the solenoid and when you shut the motor off the solenoid drops back to the carb idle speed that is lower speed and no more dieseling.
Same solenoid used on AC cars & trucks to kick the idle speed up when the AC is on.
Dave ----
Timing jumping all over the place, maybe lack of power but you would have to see that from a bad chain to a good one and even then maybe not.
99% of the time for dieseling is the idle speed too high.
Now if it has to be that high for when in gear you may want to look into a idle solenoid to fit on the carb.
You set the idle speed with the solenoid and when you shut the motor off the solenoid drops back to the carb idle speed that is lower speed and no more dieseling.
Same solenoid used on AC cars & trucks to kick the idle speed up when the AC is on.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 332
Likes: 186
I dont think I have seen a bad chain cause dieseling?
Timing jumping all over the place, maybe lack of power but you would have to see that from a bad chain to a good one and even then maybe not.
99% of the time for dieseling is the idle speed too high.
Now if it has to be that high for when in gear you may want to look into a idle solenoid to fit on the carb.
You set the idle speed with the solenoid and when you shut the motor off the solenoid drops back to the carb idle speed that is lower speed and no more dieseling.
Same solenoid used on AC cars & trucks to kick the idle speed up when the AC is on.
Dave ----
Timing jumping all over the place, maybe lack of power but you would have to see that from a bad chain to a good one and even then maybe not.
99% of the time for dieseling is the idle speed too high.
Now if it has to be that high for when in gear you may want to look into a idle solenoid to fit on the carb.
You set the idle speed with the solenoid and when you shut the motor off the solenoid drops back to the carb idle speed that is lower speed and no more dieseling.
Same solenoid used on AC cars & trucks to kick the idle speed up when the AC is on.
Dave ----
It depends on if someone has messed with the timing. Back when I ran a shop, I saw all sorts of things where somebody thought "I can fix that" but couldn't. Usually it was something basic. On Fords and Chrysler big blocks, the distributor is up front and folks mess with them.
Timing chains have gotten better metallurgy over the years. In the 1950's, if you got 50-60,000 miles you were doing good. By 1970 it was up to around 100,000 miles. By the 80's it was 125-140,000 miles. I've got 137,000 on the truck so I figure it's about due for one. On newer engines, those numbers go out the window. I've put one set of cam phasers in the three valve engine. That's all I'll EVER do.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MountainManRobb
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Jun 28, 2024 11:19 AM
RadF250inSC
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
0
Jul 6, 2023 10:10 PM
72Heirloom
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Jul 22, 2022 11:34 AM
Leudog16
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
5
Oct 25, 2010 12:34 AM
Hellbore
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
2
May 18, 2006 02:17 PM