I agree that the 497 mile regens seemed to surface with the 23+ models. I've run Archoil since my first fill up and it's never missed a 'scheduled' regen. I don't know if Archoil reduces regens for this reason. I'm normally showing around 60-70% DPF on the dash, and the iDash shows DPF% in the 25-30 range when I do hit a regen. I use it more for added lubrication and cetane than DPF health.

 

The pre-23 model trucks will go into an auto regen when either 1 of 2 parameters are met: the DPF reaches 100% or you reach 497 miles since the last regen has occurred. It sounds like this is still the same triggers as on the 23+ model trucks too.

Both of these triggers can be overcome by turning off auto regen, however, OCR needs to be enabled first on the truck in order to access this on/off switch.

Once OCR is enabled, you will have an Auto-Regen On/Off setting under Advanced Settings. If you uncheck this option you can drive your truck beyond the 497 mile parameter. This is handy simply because even though we may have been 497 miles since the last regen doesn't mean our DPF filter has reached 100%. So, by leaving Auto-Regen turned off until the DPF filter actually reaches 100% will allow us to only perform auto-regen's when necessary.

Also, as has been noted, many of us have found that when towing the temperatures will usually reach a high enough temperature so that passive regen is taking place. In my experience, when towing my camper, even if my DPF% filter is at 95% when I begin towing, in time it will passively regen down to 0% and will remain at 0% until I disconnect and start driving unloaded again. Even from this point it still takes several hundred miles for the DPF% filter to again reach 100%, and as long as the Auto-Regen box is left unchecked the truck will still not go into a regen, nor will it need to based on the soot load.

However, even if you tow 10k miles without a regen and the truck is still at 0%, the truck will want to go into an auto regen because we have surpassed the 497 mile trigger. So, as soon as we check the box for Auto-Regen (turning it back on) the truck will immediately go into a regen.

I haven't looked at the 23+ model years too in depth, but it does seem that the general consensus is that OCR cannot be enabled on these trucks via Forscan. I also do not know if OCR is an option on the 23+ model year trucks. It is worth noting that on the pre-23 model year trucks, OCR was only offered on the XL and XLT truck. It was not offered on the higher trim levels, however, on the pre-23 models, OCR is a setting that can be enabled on all trim levels. Again, I am not sure if this is the same as on the 23+ models.

If there are no (known) Forscan settings that can be changed to enable OCR, the next thing you could try is asking the Ford dealership to enable it. If it can be enabled, those with 23+ model trucks will be able to manipulate the auto-regen the same as us with pre-23 models.

But, even if you cannot activate OCR on 23+ trucks, there are still some things you can do:

Use an aftermarket monitor that allows you to see when a regen is active or not. The benefit to this is that if you see one is in progress, you can choose to continue to drive until it is complete. The bonus for 23+ model trucks is that the regen process happens much quicker due to the 9th injector than our pre-23 model year trucks.

And you can still use an additive that helps with a cleaner combustion process, which will help produce less soot. Even if your 23+ truck will still regen at 497 miles regardless of the amount of soot build up, less soot is always better than more soot. So, if you can use an additive that helps reduce soot, that is still a very good thing. In my experience based on regen intervals, an actual FBC, such as the Better Diesel FBC does a better job of this than the AR6500.

 

The only gain you get with Archoil that has been lab proven is better lubricity. The MPG claim is only good IF you disable auto Regen and IF you actually get longer regen cycles. I can get similar lubricity using Hot Shots by doubling the dose and still not pay as much per dose as what Archoil costs. As far as all the "claims" made, the only one I care about and WHY I use an additive is the Lubricity. Hot Shots delivers and for the cost per dose is to me the best deal of them all. I also tend to like how the Project Farm tests showed it to be the best for Lubricity outside of Archoil, because it wasn't tested at that time. Prior to that video I was using the Power Service stuff, and immediately switched to EDT after seeing that video as the results were not good.

I'm not saying EDT is better than Archoil, nor is Archoil better than EDT, just saying that EDT works best for my use case, for you, YMMV.

 

Here's a hot shot drivers report on Hot Shot EDT, Schaeffers and Archoil additives

Enjoy...

 

I thought the mpg gain was supposed to be due to the increase in cetane that Archoil adds? Sure less regens would help as well.
Power Service, OL, Archoil and others says higher cetane= higher fuel economy

https://powerservice.com/learning/what-is-cetane-boost/
https://www.opti-lube.com/products/a49012254c/3737200000003120386

 

How about a real scientific comparison instead of seat of the pants fanboi. XPD comes out on top. Of course the dosage is also 10 times that of Hotshots which is the lowest dosage of them all, which makes me wonder what the test results would be if all of them were tested at the same dosage of 10 ounces.

 

I think cetane improves fuel economy with diesel that has low cetane from the pump and if you have high cetane from the pump, adding a cetane booster has minimal affects. Case in point, Power Service (63.8) has more cetane than Archoil (62.6) (see the chart I posted) but doesn't yield better fuel economy for the diesel I purchase.

 

I agree on that. Texas already has higher cetane so I don't get any noticeable increase

 

https://filtagreen.com/products/

I saw this fuel treatment on one of Casey LaDelle's (Cascade Heavy Rescue) YouTube videos. He claims to have been using the Filtagreen Efficiamax Ten-35 fuel treatment since the start of 4th qtr 2025, and that his recurring emission issues on 2 big rigs have not reappeared, along with a fleet average increase of 1 mpg. Does anybody use this? I always looked at most of these products as being nothing more than snake oil.

 

First I have seen of it. It looks like it is a typical fuel additive ("lubrication, water demulsifier, polymerization retardants, oxidation stabilizers, detergents, and corrosion inhibitors"), but where it differs from most additives is that it also includes a fuel borne catalyst:

In my opinion, being that the Efficiamax is listed as both, a fuel additive and an FBC all in one, it would be more of a direct comparison to AR6500 than something like Hot Shots or OptiLube which are really just additives that focus on things such as increasing cetane levels, lubricity and has detergents for cleaning components throughout the fuel system as it is used.

These all in ones are basically the same thing that I have been doing by mixing a fuel additive and a FBC together. The benefit with the Efficiamax (and AR6500) is that it is in one bottle and can be ordered from one place. Saying that, I can't find any of the Efficiamax for sale, and the only mention of buying it I have seen is by emailing their website... You can't just go and add it to your cart and checkout. This also means I have no idea how much it costs...

For a cost comparison though, I am using OptiLube XL and Better Diesel FBC.

A gallon of OL XL costs $51.22/gallon and treats 1280 gallons. So, this is $0.04/gallon.
2 16 oz bottles of BD FBC costs $65.90 and treats 800 gallons. So, this is $0.08/gallon.

Combined, the XL and the FBC is $0.12/gallon. So...
It costs $4.08 to treat a 34 gallon tank.
It costs $5.76 to treat a 48 gallon tank.
It costs $7.20 to treat a 60 gallon tank.

For another comparison...

AR6500 costs $80 for 2 40 oz bottles and treats 800 gallons. This is $0.10/gallon. So...
It costs $3.40 to treat a 34 gallon tank.
It costs $4.80 to treat a 48 gallon tank.
It costs $6.00 to treat a 60 gallon tank.

(The above is based on price listed at the manufacturers website, and the treatment per tank is based on the standard dose of each product. The cost is also based on filling the entire tank. Obviously, we fill up before completely empty, so actual costs to fill will be less expensive.)